2012 Ford Focus Titanium DRl Wiring Up ?

[huey45]

Hi Guys

I bought some After Market DRLS from China some time ago
with the installation instructions not being clear and mainly
in Chinese I am struggling, There is a 40A/14 vdc relay built into
the wiring harness with pins 85/87a,87 and 86, 30 marked on it
then connections (2 blues going down to DRLs feeds) I presume ?
this leaves 1 red, 1 black and a green wire...auto sense sidelights ?
not sure without stripping down what colour goes onto what pin on relay...??

I have posted some pics in my album of what I have in huey45
what I am trying to do is have DRLS, switch on and stay on when
starting car, then on switching sidelights on dim by 50%, and go off
when headlights switched on..

Seen videos of these working on youtube as i described, but wiring up
vague to say the least ..

The best i could get was drls coming on using headlight switch, first position, but not going out when switched to dipped beams, or dimming down to 50%
Any guidance gratefully appreciated..

 

[Mursal]

From your wiring diagram:

RED: To 12Volts looks like you have to turn the rear wiper on for the DTRL's to work? But any fused constant power will do to test
BLACK: To chassis earth
Power feeds two blues: One to each Day Time Running Light
Yellow/Green to cut the brightness of the DTRL's: To the sidelight circuit.

Standard Relay:
30: Power from battery (your red)
85: Earth for relay coil
86: supply for relay coil
87A: constantly ON (connected to 30) until you power the relay coil
87: Constantly OFF until you power the relay coil, then it connects to 30

Hopefully the relay has a bit of trickery connected to give you the 50% brightness when the sidelights are turned ON?

Don't think you will get the DTRL's to turn OFF on main beam or dip beam, but leave it with me. In the above it looks like you turn the rear wiper off to turn them off?
Hopefully when you turn the sidelights on you hear the relay clicking going from fully on to 50%? If not double check your test wiring.
Remember the sense wire yellow/green doesn't have to go to the sidelights for testing, just no power should give full brightness connected to 12Volts should give 50%

See how you go ............

PS
U-Tube has a lot to answer for ............

 

[huey45]

Hi thanks for that input, i have been pouring over relay circuits, for testing, to rule out a faulty relay, when connected as i described, if i open any doors, which is on courtesy light circuit i can hear my relay click, on closing door
it clicks again, not sure if that is supposed to happen, looks like picking up
a live to activate relay, tomorow in daylight i will check out wkres on relay
to ensure what colour wires are on to what pins, as it came prewired from china when i purchased, will give you feedback when i have it, many thanks

 

[Burnerman]

I'm wondering if the rear wiper supply is just a convenient 'ignition on' accessory and just happens to be accessible?
Anyone know how the thing can reduce the DRL brightness?
(Took me a while to work out what a DRL actually is )
John

 

[huey45]

Hi john

From what i can gather from my setup apart from red live, black negative, and power feeds to drl lights, you should have maybe a couple of spare colours which when spliced into your dipped headlight circuit, reduces your
drls to about 50% brightness to keep you street legal with the police, keep
a eye on this posting, im still trying to resolve mine, with Murcals help

 

[huey45]

Hi Mursal

I followed your guidance on DRL wiring and got nothing what so ever
although each time power on and off I could here the relay clicking

So had a bit experiment whilst under bonnet, i put the fused live direct
to battery live, then connected the green sense wire also to battery live
the Drls did light on full power, then flashed couple of times then went off
If Repeat again,I get the same thing..

Could the relay be wired wrong colour wise, or relay faulty
or incorrect type bearing in mind it originated, from China
do they use the same colour codes as Europe
I dont know what to try next..any further suggestions ??

Regards Keith

 

[Mursal]

That's a pity.
So, it might be worth just connecting it up again, just in case you missed something?

If you haven't got a reaction and you don't want to "leave it back"

Then ........................
I may have been mistaken telling you that 30 goes to the battery supply. Connect 30 to both DTRL wires.
Pin 87A to battery supply
Pin 87 to battery supply through a resistor?????
Then when you switch on the relay power across 85 and 86 (you get a click) the DTRL get half power through a resistor connected to 87.
Now if they are not using a resistor and are using a high frequency flasher unit to reduce the brightness (known as pulse width modulation) it could be wired any which way. But if you find a fairly large resistor with colour bands on it connected to the relay terminal, you have the basic version.

Hope this helps, let me know if you find a resistor ............
Sorry I'm not familiar with the colour codes used, going on relay pin numbers only and the wiring diagram.

Yes John, wipers equal ignition ON, hadn't thought of that ......
DTRL's was a new one for me too

 

[Burnerman]

If these DRL's are led, it's got to be pulse width dimming, surely?
Therefore there should be an oscillator pcb somewhere with a timer chip in it?
John

 

[huey45]

Hi Mursal

Follwing your latest suggestion, i have a couple of 6ohm 50w gold
finned power resistors, would any one of them be any good ?

Regards Keith

 

[Belle427]

Im guessing as its from china its a basic on/off circuit with no dimming feature.

 

[huey45]

John

In answer to your question, when installing drls into car, on the back
of them, looked like a box, this is where i plugged in the blue power
leads that came down from the relay, described in my first post..

 

[huey45]

As i havent got the original paperwork from when i first ordered
im sure in their description it said auto dimming when wired up
maybe if i read right the sense wire was green, as in original
post too many wires, if not ?

 

[Mursal]

If you wire the circuit this way, as in my first post, it doesn't work?

RED: To 12Volts looks like you have to turn the rear wiper on for the DTRL's to work? But any fused constant power will do to test
BLACK: To chassis earth
Power feeds two blues: One to each Day Time Running Light
Yellow/Green to cut the brightness of the DTRL's: To the sidelight circuit.
Have you double checked everything?

There are two ways to dim the Light Emitting Diodes (LED's).
The easy way will be to increase the resistor already in the circuit, because LED's do not have any internal resistance.
The other way is to turn them on and off faster than we can notice, therefore they appear to be on all the time, but dimmer.

If you cannot get the original circuit to work, you may be able to fit resistors to dim, but a bit of trial and error will be needed. Would you have any idea from the writing on the LED strips what current they consume? This will help with resistor size. But just make it big enough so you have 6Volts across the resistor and 6Volts across both LED strips. But it will get warm ........
So the 12V/6ohm = 2Amps
If the current flow is 2Amps your resistor will be fine?

Why are they flashing and then going off? You mention blue wires going into the LEDS, only one wire per LED strip or are there wires not used?

The cause of the fault is unlikely to be the relay itself, is there any other circuit board or anything?

 

[huey45]

Hi to get info on fited drls would mean taking all of undertrays off car to gain
access to drls, trying to prise out from front could damage my paintwork
which is quite good, willing to try latest suggetion about swapping wires around on relay, and trying a resistor in circuit to fool drls to work

Failing that could remove all, and fit standard ford triangles without
drls..

 

[Mursal]

Shout if I can help ...........