Hi atm I have the above switches around the kitchen for all my appliances. Now do you still fit these above worktops or just have a socket fitted below in cupboards ?
Thanks
Thanks
20a switch for appliances yes or no ?
- Thread starter RobTi
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20A switches above the worktop are very handy and accessible, but do not include a fuse, so you should use a fused plug below (edit - as well). It's also very much easier to disconnect when you have a plug underneath, for removal, repair or replacement. No electrician or screwdriver needed with a plug and socket
you can use an FCU above if you want (edit - as well). duplication of fuse is not a significant problem because kitchen appliances blow fuses, on average, approximately never.
you can use an FCU above if you want (edit - as well). duplication of fuse is not a significant problem because kitchen appliances blow fuses, on average, approximately never.
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If you consider it important to be able to quickly, safely and fully isolate an appliance then Double Pole switches above the work should be considered.
Unplugging the appliance will also fully isolated it.
Quickly ? Depends how accessible the socket is and how long to empty the cupboard to get to it.
Safely ? Flicking an easy to reach switch above the work surface is low hazard while pulling a plug in the confines of a cupboard close to a faulty appliance could present some hazard, especially if the fault appliance has created some mild panic.
Unplugging the appliance will also fully isolated it.
Quickly ? Depends how accessible the socket is and how long to empty the cupboard to get to it.
Safely ? Flicking an easy to reach switch above the work surface is low hazard while pulling a plug in the confines of a cupboard close to a faulty appliance could present some hazard, especially if the fault appliance has created some mild panic.
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Thanks all I have the switches above with sockets below and plugs on all the appliances. Reason for asking is my glass hob shattered and getting ready to fit a new one and thought to ask before I strip everything out to replace.
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In the main hob supply is over 20 amp, as to other supplies the idea was to be able to isolate without having to touch the appliance, important when washing machine weights had become loose and it is dancing around the floor, or a freezer needs defrosting, there should be on/off switches on the appliance, but have had a freezer which needed unplugging to defrost, and when you have problems with a RCD tripping easy if double pole switch can isolate rather than drag it out.
So I would say the grid switch is desirable but not essential. Much depends on the home, mother's old house the kitchen had its own consumer unit in the kitchen, with all RCBO's so isolators not really required, my house need to leave house go down a set of steps and back in under main house to assess the consumer unit, so in my case really needed.
So I would say the grid switch is desirable but not essential. Much depends on the home, mother's old house the kitchen had its own consumer unit in the kitchen, with all RCBO's so isolators not really required, my house need to leave house go down a set of steps and back in under main house to assess the consumer unit, so in my case really needed.
There is no requirement for them. I have never fitted them apart from for a cooker. A line of switches above the worktop looks carp to me.
The site doesn't censor 'crap'. 
No requirement perhaps, but also no need to skimp and do the bare minimum.
A lot of it is personal preference.
A line of switches can look carp, though careful positioning can make a difference.
I do like the look of a grid switch with multiple switches, though I appreciate others don't.
Well that clinches it for me.
Switches above the worktop it is.
In the same row as the many sockets. Very easy to install.
"Isolation", in the true sense, does not really require "quickly", so I presume you are really referring to "emergency switch" - for which I agree, there is something to be said.
However, it is only too common to see these switches located close to, commonly above the back of, the appliance they relate to - such that it would not be safe to try to operate them "in an emergency such as having burst into flames or having become 'electrically live'.
There is, of course, no regulator requirement for either isolators or emergency switches for domestic appliances, but that dopes not mean that there are not valid arguments for having them.
Kind Regards, John
other than the requirement for a single point of disconnect ( or words to that effect ) which deals with "emergencies".
Indeed so - but that obviously relates to the entire installation, not to an individual appliance.
Use of such a switch for 'emergency switching' is not without it's potential problems. If the emergency occurs during the hours of darkness, the household will (unless they have emergency lighting) be 'plunged into darkness', which could exacerbate or complicate the emergency (and could create additional hazards). If the household is reliant on a cordless landline phone, then killing the entire electrical installation could delay communication with Emergency Services.
In the vast majority of electrically-related 'emergency' situations, isolation of just one circuit will (albeit SP) be adequate, and the OPDs to facilitate that will usually be just as accessible as the 'Main Switch' (although, I confess, use of the Main Switch requires 'less thought', in what may be a 'panic' situation).
Kind Regards, John
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