How to avoid FSCs above worktop for appliances below?

Rob, on that first piccy, why is there a switch marked "NOB"?
 
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1/ If cables are chased into the wall from the switches on the ring above the worktop down behind the floor cupboard(s) which will house the socket/fllex outlets, do they just poke out of the wall through the back of the cupboard and into the sockets/outlets?

Yep. I just take the cable through the back of the cupboard straight into the socket.

2/ The instructions with my 10 litre water heater indicate a fused spur connection from the ring should be used. Can I use a grid switch and just plug into a single socket instead, or should I add a 13A fuse to the grid and connect via flex outlet?

The manufacturers instructions must be followed. (They know what is best for their product)

I'd put a fused spur in the cupboard to supply the water heater, but supply the fused spur from one of the switches on the grid switch.

3/ Do fused spur connections/switches etc have to be above the worktop? If so, why?

This is a much debated subject.

Personally I interpret the regs as requiring this. It is to enable the appliance to be easily and quickly turned off shoulod it go wrong, or require servicing. I like to use mine at home to turn the cooker hood on and off as it is easier than fiddling with the little buttons on the hood.

There are those that will argue that they are not a requirement, but it really is much more convenient and safer to have them
 
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1/ If cables are chased into the wall from the switches on the ring above the worktop down behind the floor cupboard(s) which will house the socket/fllex outlets, do they just poke out of the wall through the back of the cupboard and into the sockets/outlets?

Yep. I just take the cable through the back of the cupboard straight into the socket.
Thus raising the other much debated subject of whether it's acceptable to fix sockets to kitchen cupboards.... ;)


I'd put a fused spur in the cupboard to supply the water heater, but supply the fused spur from one of the switches on the grid switch.
Why make the fuse less accessible when you could have it on the grid?
 
There was a debate a while back on the iet forum about use of grid switches in this way as unless you run radials for each appliance, they are likely to be on a ring and it seems most grid switches are only rated for 20A not 32A.

I think the general consensus was that they wouldn't therefore comply.

SB
 
There was a debate a while back on the iet forum about use of grid switches in this way as unless you run radials for each appliance, they are likely to be on a ring and it seems most grid switches are only rated for 20A not 32A.

I think the general consensus was that they wouldn't therefore comply.

SB

Connected to a single 13A outlet, there is no way to draw more than 13A.
 
Yes electronicsuk - but on the ring side of the fuse (if you see what I mean) it could be up to 32A.
 

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