How to avoid FSCs above worktop for appliances below?

[vargen]

Hi all

I'm installing new appliances under worktop in my (being) renovated kitchen - fridge; freezer; Hyco instant hot water heater; garbage disposal and dishwasher. Kitchen is having its own ring. Spark told me to connect each appliance via a switched FSC to an outlet plate (to save space) from one socket above worktop at a time. Unfortunately, he's away on hols 'til mid-October, by which time I need to be at first fix.

Is there any way I can avoid having unsightly FSCs above kitchen worktop to connect the appliances below? I'd really to like to have 20 amp DP type switches above with a fused outlet below. I found a thread about grid switches somewhere but have lost it.... How do these work?

All help appreciated.

 

[Steve]

You can have 20A switch above (on the ring), controlling a normal single 13A socket below.

Why are FCUs unsightly in comparison to 20A DPs?

In any case, you ought to pass this suggestion by your electrician before you do it. Though first fix does not involve connecting accessories, merely running wires and chasing out (though not in that order lol)!

Have all your accessories in a nice straight row along the worktop, about 8 inches above looks good. Better than having them all hither and thither!

Grid switches are modular. You select the modules you need (say, 4 20DPs and 4 fuse modules. Then you need a 8 gang face and two 4 gang plates, and an 8 gang back box. You can get the face plates engraved with descriptions. RF Lighting (i think) knows of a company online.

But remember, the isolation switch must be within 2 metres (or an armspan) of the appliance.

 

[Steve]

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...nu_Index/Grid_System/Grid_System_3/index.html

This is a good site where you can buy grid accessories. Its certainly not a cheap method though! Expect to spend £30-40 on an 8 gang unit.

The secret key switches are a good idea for fridges and freezers etc.

 

[vargen]

Great! Thanks guys.

One final question - is there a reg regarding distance of sockets/switches above worktop from sink? Ideally, the garbage disposal on/off needs to be above the sink unit.

 

[Hann]

Hi, I asked a similar question and here's what I found out:

The kitchen ring cable feeds into the first DP switch (if you have a row of them). You then use small lengths of phase and neutral cores (i.e with insulation but without the cable sheath) from the first switch's supply terminals (L and N) to the next switch's supply terminals (L and N). TandE cable runs from each switch's load terminals, under the worktop, to the unswitched socket outlet for an appliance controlled by that switch. The ring main TandE cable continues from the last DP switch (L and N supply terminals) in your row of switches. If your appliances all use a 13A plug, there's no need for a FCU (the fuse is in the plug).

Click do nice labelled DP switches and front plates. Like Steve says, it will be more expensive. But then it does look neater and minimalist.

Steve, why are secret key switches a good idea for fridges? I've been scratching my head over them.

 

[JohnD]

a fused outlet below

barmy idea. You would do better with a 13A unswitched socket below

 

[Steve]

One final question - is there a reg regarding distance of sockets/switches above worktop from sink? Ideally, the garbage disposal on/off needs to be above the sink unit.

Guidance of 30cm. But this is not likely to be heavily enforced. As long as its not at risk of splashing (if you have one of those big taps with an extending hose, obviously you'll need the switch further away etc)

 

[Steve]

Steve, why are secret key switches a good idea for fridges? I've been scratching my head over them.

Well you wouldn't want a normal switch would you? I dont know, I guess its something I'd do to keep uniformity. Appliances must have accessible isolation. A keyswitch provides this, but cannot be tampered with by wandering small hands . . .

They are also used in shops, for lastman out switches by the front door - you dont want customers brushing past and turning everything off do you!!! Also used to test emergency lights.

 

[333rocky333]

why are secret key switches a good idea for fridges? I've been scratching my head over them.

Well I would quess, if there was a bank of normal switches someone might turn them all off and the fridge would defrost.

EDIT
as above

 

[RF Lighting]

I like using grid switches.

Recently did this in a mates kitchen

I used the switch to supply a single socket in the cupboard adjacent to each appliance, so the plug & socket was not too deep for behind the appliance.

I bought the switches with the lables already on, but you can also use plain switches and have the grid plate custom engraved to suit your particular needs.

(Not in a kitchen, but you get the idea)

http://www.enlabel.co.uk/

 

[vargen]

Thanks everyone. Really helpful. All very much apprecated.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Ideally, the garbage disposal on/off needs to be above the sink unit.

Why?

 

[vargen]

a) for convenience
b) in case you get your hand stuck in it

 

[skenk]

Steve, why are secret key switches a good idea for fridges? I've been scratching my head over them.

Well you wouldn't want a normal switch would you? I dont know, I guess its something I'd do to keep uniformity. Appliances must have accessible isolation. A keyswitch provides this, but cannot be tampered with by wandering small hands . . .

They are also used in shops, for lastman out switches by the front door - you dont want customers brushing past and turning everything off do you!!! Also used to test emergency lights.

I'd have thought the isolation switch would have to be usable by ordinary persons without a tool so would a secret key switch be ok in this situation (domestic) Pro's care to comment? Sure would be neater and good for fridges if it's ok to do.

 

[vargen]

I like using grid switches.

I used the switch to supply a single socket in the cupboard adjacent to each appliance, so the plug & socket was not too deep for behind the appliance.

I bought the switches with the lables already on, but you can also use plain switches and have the grid plate custom engraved to suit your particular needs.

Looks really neat. Just a couple more queries....

1/ If cables are chased into the wall from the switches on the ring above the worktop down behind the floor cupboard(s) which will house the socket/fllex outlets, do they just poke out of the wall through the back of the cupboard and into the sockets/outlets?

2/ The instructions with my 10 litre water heater indicate a fused spur connection from the ring should be used. Can I use a grid switch and just plug into a single socket instead, or should I add a 13A fuse to the grid and connect via flex outlet?

3/ Do fused spur connections/switches etc have to be above the worktop? If so, why?