5 amp socket on a 6 amp circuit
- Thread starter RF Lighting
- Start date
We are wanting some hard power so the circuits going out to the bar can be dimmed circuits as normal, or none dimmed if there's a mover or a strobe etc plugged in.
They just need new triacs when I get round to it.
We already have some 16A ceeform non-dim sockets on a 20A type C circuit. I was going to extend this to a small DIN enclosure with a couple of 6A circuit breakers feeding some 5A sockets.
I've got some mac250s which are too much for a 5A circuit and get run on the 16A sockets on extention leads, but we have some moving mirror fittings which are about 300W halogen load, and things like a mirror ball and a strobe etc.
We already have some 16A ceeform non-dim sockets on a 20A type C circuit. I was going to extend this to a small DIN enclosure with a couple of 6A circuit breakers feeding some 5A sockets.
I've got some mac250s which are too much for a 5A circuit and get run on the 16A sockets on extention leads, but we have some moving mirror fittings which are about 300W halogen load, and things like a mirror ball and a strobe etc.
Blimey, that picture brings back some memories - one of the schools I went to had 36 channels of Furse dimmers just like that hardwired to pairs of 5a sockets (mirrored SL / SR about the centreline).
Are those the ones which have the control input on something that looks like a 9 pin D type? I seem to remember nightmares trying to make an adaptor to a 25 way D for connecting to a Sirius 24!
Back on topic! 5a outlet for hot power on a 6a MCB sounds pretty normal - 15a on a 16a MCB certainly is. B type can be a bit too sensitive for discharge movers / strobes (and might even be cutting it fine for a 1k tungsten), so C6 might be more useful.
Are those the ones which have the control input on something that looks like a 9 pin D type? I seem to remember nightmares trying to make an adaptor to a 25 way D for connecting to a Sirius 24!
Back on topic! 5a outlet for hot power on a 6a MCB sounds pretty normal - 15a on a 16a MCB certainly is. B type can be a bit too sensitive for discharge movers / strobes (and might even be cutting it fine for a 1k tungsten), so C6 might be more useful.
Hi,
Are they still avaible then? I looked for them a while back but was unable to find some. The racks are long gone now though.
Ahh, Well 6A then. All this on a 20A trip sounds quite a load.
The smaller stuff for them then.
Are they still avaible then? I looked for them a while back but was unable to find some. The racks are long gone now though.
Ahh, Well 6A then. All this on a 20A trip sounds quite a load.
The smaller stuff for them then.
Ha ha yes that's the one! I had to make up lead from 2 x 9 pin to a 25 pin d sub so we could drive them through the demux unit.
I would imagine so, but haven't looked for a while.
You might be right actually, a new 20A supply would be better to feed the new mini DB and sockets.
You might be right actually, a new 20A supply would be better to feed the new mini DB and sockets.
Hi,
One of the things that pops to mind a lot is when a shows on, Total loading of all fixtures and what it would equal. Had a 40A trip blow once feeding the main FOH rig half way through a show. You could upgrade the cable feeding you current CeeFORM sockets and they run a mini unit off that.
One of the things that pops to mind a lot is when a shows on, Total loading of all fixtures and what it would equal. Had a 40A trip blow once feeding the main FOH rig half way through a show. You could upgrade the cable feeding you current CeeFORM sockets and they run a mini unit off that.
We've only got a 50A type 2 SP feed to the control room. That runs the dimmers, the non-dims, the control room sockets and lights, auditorium lights and sockets, stage workers, tabs motor, and I've only taken it out once in a rehersal 
It's easy enough to get a new supply round it's all in steel trunking. The cotrol room DB only has one way left, and ideally we'd like to keep all the non-dims on a main isolator (just for functional switching)
It's easy enough to get a new supply round it's all in steel trunking. The cotrol room DB only has one way left, and ideally we'd like to keep all the non-dims on a main isolator (just for functional switching)
Oh and VDs an issue too. If you wind the dimmers up from cold the stage and auditorium workers all go out and then restrick once the tungsten is warm 
Hi,
Wow are you in a small church hall then? Ours is a 130A TP supply for just the racks. That's good going only once, especially with whats loaded.
Can't stand steel trunking it always hard to get back together. I find SWA better blends in aswell.
Oh thats a bugger, Do you warm them up before full 100%, 25-30% usually does it.
Wow are you in a small church hall then? Ours is a 130A TP supply for just the racks. That's good going only once, especially with whats loaded.
Can't stand steel trunking it always hard to get back together. I find SWA better blends in aswell.
Oh thats a bugger, Do you warm them up before full 100%, 25-30% usually does it.
It's a commiunity centre with a small ish stage. It's not a bad little venue though. I just fade the desk up on a 30s manual fade to start with. Once the house lights and workers etc are off it's not too bad.
Have worked on some massive installs at other venues. This one has a 400A TP supply for the dimmers. It's 2x 120mm² 4 core SWAs run in parallell for the supply and then a 100A TP supply in 35mm² tri-rated singles to each of the dimmers.
Have worked on some massive installs at other venues. This one has a 400A TP supply for the dimmers. It's 2x 120mm² 4 core SWAs run in parallell for the supply and then a 100A TP supply in 35mm² tri-rated singles to each of the dimmers.
I'm reminded of the time I came across a site fabricated dimmer in a school, metal adaptable box, 5A sockets arranged in groups of 2 and controlled by standard household 1kw dimmers mounted on the front... all from a 32A circuit, wasn't a massive issue with the original dimmers as they were fused internally, unfortunately some of these had failed and been replaced with unfused versions.
When checking all the channels worked after adding some MK grid fuse modules, and hunting through the load of plug top leads on the floor for the 4 out of the 20 odd for the the only 4 sockets which were in use for the corner fresnals, and for the spotlight bar (of the type intended for shop windows) I got a shock off the pins of one of the plugs... turns out the spotlight bar had been wired as two groups of spots onto different plugtops, but with only one neutral
When checking all the channels worked after adding some MK grid fuse modules, and hunting through the load of plug top leads on the floor for the 4 out of the 20 odd for the the only 4 sockets which were in use for the corner fresnals, and for the spotlight bar (of the type intended for shop windows) I got a shock off the pins of one of the plugs... turns out the spotlight bar had been wired as two groups of spots onto different plugtops, but with only one neutral
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