a new plaster board ceiling

[breezer]

if you want to cut out a hole for downlights you could always use this which means no mess on the floor below, or you could use this but you have dust on the floor.

Either way, once you have made your holes* in the ceiling you can "fish" from one to the other, so you may not have to lift any floorboards at all. (mind you lucky if you don't since one joist will always be where yo do not want it)

* you can check where the joists are by hitting the ceiling as mentioned in a previous post, or poke a very small screwdriver up to find them, but best lift a board to be sure

 

[aaront]

Thanks for the advice guys but I dont have access to the floorboards above as they my flat is on one level and it would mean getting permission from the owner above me to lift her floorboards!

 

[cyberdog]

drylining boards what you paint are special boards with a chamfer on the edges so you can use filler to cover the join then you paint!!!.ordinary drylining boards you SKIM with PLASTER then paint...hope this clears this up because no one seems to know what their talking about...:eyes

Hi,
OK can I just clarify something. I have just re-newed a bedroom ceiling with tapered (cream) plasterboard. I have filled and taped all the joints and sanded them down. Can I paper directly onto this now or is it best to give it all a coat of, say emulsion paint before papering. Thanks.

 

[Pelhamdog]

Needs to be sealed before papering, otherwise when the paper is stripped off in the future the plasterboard paper will come off too. Why do you want to paper it?

 

[cyberdog]

Needs to be sealed before papering, otherwise when the paper is stripped off in the future the plasterboard paper will come off too. Why do you want to paper it?

What would i use to seal it?? As to why paper it well, this is my first attempt at renewing a ceiling and although i have made sure the tapered joints look good i have a couple of joints that are made by having to butt two square ends together. I taped and filled them making sure i feathered the filler, but just incase any joint was slightly obvious i thought if i papered the ceiling with chip paper then emulsioned it it might help to hide any slight inperfections with my joints. Also the paper would never have to come off so it would protect the plasterboard surface.

 

[Pelhamdog]

Use wallpaper size to seal it before papering. But the best way to conceal dodgey joints is artex or textured paint - also easier than papering a ceiling!

 

[cyberdog]

Use wallpaper size to seal it before papering. But the best way to conceal dodgey joints is artex or textured paint - also easier than papering a ceiling!

So if i was going to use artex or textured pain would i still have to seal it.

 

[simone murray]

Skimming the whole ceiling is the best most proffesional this to do otherwise over time you will see the tape marks and screws head shapes. Always best to the the job properly first time thus saving cost and time in the future.
I work for a company that purely sells a drywall tool to help fix plasterboard and other flat sheet materials and therefore have in dpeth knowledge of the drylining trade. Have alook at our website there is a video sshowing you how to fix board in various situations.
www.boadmate.com

 

[cyberdog]

Skimming the whole ceiling is the best most proffesional this to do otherwise over time you will see the tape marks and screws head shapes. Always best to the the job properly first time thus saving cost and time in the future.
I

I totaly agree with you, if you can afford it it is always best to have it skimed. However if i was to decide on using a textured paint. Would i have to prime the board with anything before painting it or not. Given that i have used tapered edge boards which can be used for painting or papering. Thanks.

 

[simone murray]

Without seeing the manufacturers guidelines for this board you can paint direct on I can just make an educated guess, which is that use a week solution of white emulsion as a base/primmer coat at this will give a good colour base and key grip and also give you a good idea of whether you will see lines and screw heads, if there are any really bad bits then you can make them good before applying your textured coat. This is the base I've used when my ceilings and walls were plastered as recommend by a pro and its turned out great.
Hope this helps a bit good luck

 

[cyberdog]

What a disaster. I painted the plaster board (and also painted over the filler i had used on the joints), with watered down emulsion. Two days later i gave the ceiling a coat of polyriple with a roller. It looked good, apart for three patches were the polyriple has shrunk and blistered. This has only happened over the filler. When i took a closer look the day after, it just peeled of the ceiling in these three places. I rang the poycell help line and the advised me to give it another coat of emulsion and try it again... By the time i have finished (if it works out ok) it would have been cheaper to pay to have it skimmed.

 

[masona]

This has only happened over the filler.

Possible reason that the filler has not dry out 100% depending on the thickness.

 

[cyberdog]

I left the filler for about seven days before applying the polyriple. I have given the patches another coat of imulsion. I will leave this for a couple of days and then try the polyriple again, and cross my fingers.

 

[masona]

I know people do use emulsion as a sealer,but I would rather use plasterboard sealer which is design for. See this. Also Unibond + water is good.

 

[cyberdog]

I have given the patches another coat of emulsion. I thought about unibond, but the adviser at Polycell advised against using this. I don`t know what to do??? As i have given it another coat of emulsion i will try pollyriple again, if it happens again i think i will give uni-bond a go.Thanks