Adding external light to electric garage door opener

[SFK]

Also,
To save you soldering (and might make testing easier) I think this is the cable you need:
It looks like a Molex KK
with pitch of 0.1" or 2.54mm

You need to select 3 way version and cut off one end to make bare wire to put into relay module (or use bare ends to with a multimeter).


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KF2510-2...332950?hash=item2aac0fa556:g:TZUAAOSwz35bI8CD

 

[dstill]

It would be sensible to confirm (carefully) with your meter that the centre pin does change state with motor running- it may just pulse at motor start rather than being high while motor running.
Doesn't make the job impossible, just means you'd need a delay relay (which would make total sense of the permanent 12v on that connector)- you're looking for off delay (where the relay once triggered latches for x seconds)

Good point, thanks, will do.

 

[dstill]

Also,
To save you soldering (and might make testing easier) I think this is the cable you need:
It looks like a Molex KK
with pitch of 0.1" or 2.54mm

You need to select 3 way version and cut off one end to make bare wire to put into relay module (or use bare ends to with a multimeter).


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KF2510-2...332950?hash=item2aac0fa556:g:TZUAAOSwz35bI8CD

Brilliant, thanks, some great advice here which I appreciate massively. I'll give these things a go and report back, thanks again.

 

[dstill]

Ok guys, I tested the middle connection and it is a switched live. When I open the garage door the connection go's live and stays live to the point the onboard led courtesy light go's off.

With this in mind do I just need to connect my new 12v external lights directly to it? Do I need to use all 3 connections or just the negative (left connector) and the switched live (middle connector)?

 

[SFK]

Great to hear you know pinout.

If you have a 12V light you might be able to attach it directly to the 12V switched live (and the other to the ground pin).

But, and this is the big but, we do not know how much power (or current) that that switched 12V pin is designed to or able to deliver.

It might be designed to power only the onboard LEDs and switch the interface module (which needs very little power) you were looking for.

Or might be able to directly power a 12V led light. But I doubt it). I am concerned that it might not as I expect it will not be able to provide enough current.

Hence my suggestion of an interface module (the relay) to be on safe side. You can use the suggested module to switch the 12V light to be safe so it will not damage motherboard.

But to give us an idea, How much power does your 12V light need? (In amps or watts?).

Sfk

 

[oldbutnotdead]

That connector is designed to have a relay connected to it so max design load for the signal line will be less than 1 watt. You might get away with an LED directly driven but you might not, which could leave you with a non-functioning door control.
Given the signal states, either relay will work- you might want to consider the delay one (gives you time to watch the door close and light to walk back to the house)

 

[dstill]

Thanks guys, I'll take the cautious approach and get a relay.

I'll check how many watts the light will need.

I've looked closely at the Molex connector in the link and it looks different to one that would connect to my PCB, is there any other types I could look for?

 

[SFK]

I've looked closely at the Molex connector in the link and it looks different to one that would connect to my PCB, is there any other types I could look for?

Not realy - but very hard to determine from picture.
Any specific reason?
As I am a bit surprised as the 0.1" inch pitch is normal.

If it is the raised bits on the side I would suggest buying it anyway and perhaps cutting/sanding these off - but I would say that as it is not my money. :>
Otherwise you have to Solder to pins.

SFK

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Measure the distance between the pins- if it is 0.1 inch then the Molex will fit- might not sit properly but as long as it is secure and makes contact who cares. There are other pin pitches (ran into some random ones years ago working on stripboard projects).....maybe search CPC or RS, see if you can spot the particular connector types you have.

 

[dstill]

Not realy - but very hard to determine from picture.
Any specific reason?
As I am a bit surprised as the 0.1" inch pitch is normal.

If it is the raised bits on the side I would suggest buying it anyway and perhaps cutting/sanding these off - but I would say that as it is not my money. :>
Otherwise you have to Solder to pins.

SFK

Thanks, I'll recheck it carefully, its probably me being a goon as in all honesty I'm learning from each post which I'm really grateful for.

 

[dstill]

Measure the distance between the pins- if it is 0.1 inch then the Molex will fit- might not sit properly but as long as it is secure and makes contact who cares. There are other pin pitches (ran into some random ones years ago working on stripboard projects).....maybe search CPC or RS, see if you can spot the particular connector types you have.

Will do, that was something else I learned this week, how to measure the pitch, at this rate I'l be a boffin by this Friday, lol

 

[SFK]

Pleasure
Note that happy to suggest a parts list (and perhaps even a wiring diagram if needed) once you are ready to setup.
As said always good to spend others money.

I was thinking about this project -I would actually suggest you get the overrun timer (as suggested by Oldbutnot dead) rather than my Relay only suggestion as it will allow the light to stay on much longer than Motor. This gives you extra time in the Light.
SFK

 

[dstill]

Pleasure
Note that happy to suggest a parts list (and perhaps even a wiring diagram if needed) once you are ready to setup.
As said always good to spend others money.

I was thinking about this project -I would actually suggest you get the overrun timer (as suggested by Oldbutnot dead) rather than my Relay only suggestion as it will allow the light to stay on much longer than Motor. This gives you extra time in the Light.
SFK

Ha, ha, I'm all for learning so sounds like a plan.

I have measured the pitch and it looks about 2.5mm, I've realised the brick lights I was going to use are 240v. I've added a photo of the lights, I'm guessing I could remove the guts and fit a 12v compatible lamp/led?

I think I'm going to need to route the cables from the circuit board through the motor housing and to a wall mounted enclosure as there isn't much room within the motor housing itself to fit anything in to be honest. With this in mind could you possibly recommend a parts list please?

 

[SFK]

Why change lamp to 12V?
Suggest you keep it as 240V.


Also, I show my solution with a Delay Relay Module, but exactly the same wiring is used with Relay only module.

Shopping List and wiring diagram (happy if Oldbutdead shoots it down)
Also have these in Toolstation.
Sorry for poor lines and writing - but wrote it on my lap on back of old box.

Fused Plug
https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=fused+plug

Rubber or Pond Cable, make sure that is is with earth (0.75mm2)
Good for use in UV environment (ie outside)
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electric...m_sp=managedredirect-_-electrical-_-pondcable

Terminal Strips (you only need two bits!!!, but this is for many many)
I suggest 6A or 15 A (but bigger might have cable being a bit loose)
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electric...=managedredirect-_-electrical-_-terminalblock

Cable Gland for 4 to 8mm cables (need 3):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Cable+Gland&_sacat=0
also on SF, but I think they ?might? be for slightly larger cables
https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-male-comp-gland-20mm-2-pack/80851

Box (you need to check if it is big enough, but their knock out holes makes it easier for you to use):
https://www.screwfix.com/p/ip65-adaptable-box-93-x-93-x-55mm/15488
https://www.screwfix.com/p/adaptable-box-ip65-110-x-110-x-67mm/17962
https://www.screwfix.com/p/schneide...ox-with-knockouts-grey-195-x-165-x-90mm/61100
all
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/junction-boxes/cat830522


Relay Module with run on delay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-12VD...144375?hash=item1c7e2083b7:g:svgAAOSw~AVYtW9x
or
Relay Module
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-channe...378827?hash=item25f2dd4acb:g:4a0AAOSwb9BaymBV

 

[dstill]

Why change lamp to 12V?
Suggest you keep it as 240V.
I show it with Delay Relay Module, but this is same wiring if used with Relay only module.

Shopping List and wiring diagram (happy if Oldbutdead shoots it down)
Also have these in Toolstation.
Sorry for poor lines and writing - but wrote it on my lap on back of old box.

Fused Plug
https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=fused+plug

Rubber or Pond Cable, make sure that is is with earth (0.75mm2)
Good for use in UV environment (ie outside)
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electric...m_sp=managedredirect-_-electrical-_-pondcable

Terminal Strips (you only need two bits!!!, but this is for many many)
6A (bigger can be used but cable might be loose)
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electric...=managedredirect-_-electrical-_-terminalblock

Cable Gland for 4 to 8mm cables (need 3):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Cable+Gland&_sacat=0
also on SF, but I think they ?might? be for slightly larger cables
https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-male-comp-gland-20mm-2-pack/80851

Blooming heck that was quick, impressive and obviously extremely knowledgeable.
I didn't realise I could connect one side of the relay to the mains supply and the other side to the 12v output pins on the circuit board.

Box (you need to check if it is big enough, but their knock out holes makes it easier for you to use):
https://www.screwfix.com/p/ip65-adaptable-box-93-x-93-x-55mm/15488
https://www.screwfix.com/p/adaptable-box-ip65-110-x-110-x-67mm/17962
https://www.screwfix.com/p/schneide...ox-with-knockouts-grey-195-x-165-x-90mm/61100
all
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/junction-boxes/cat830522


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