Advice needed for rear caliper replacement on VW Golf MkIV

[cooa99]

Hi Guys,

I have just removed my Rear discs & pads on VW Golf MKIV.

I successfully used the caliper wind back tool on one side , but the other side would just not go all the way in ...

I almost bent the wind back tool in the process, so I am thinking a new caliper is needed.

Question2
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1) what step do I need to follow to replace the caliper and make sure that I don't introduce air into the system ...?

2) Once I put the caliper back on, do I need to put all the tyres back on before adjustments to the brake system

3) The caliper carrier arm has a pair or retaining clips to hold the brake pads to the carrier. Are they needed?

 

[Burnerman]

If you gave the wind back tool a really hard time, then maybe the caliper is goosed.....keeping the tool absolutely square is the secret here.
Anyway, to replace the caliper, there are two securing bolts, and the brake pipe has its own banjo union so no problems with that one.
Disconnect the handbrake cable.
I just let the fluid flow when I'm disconnecting one caliper for the other - you don't lose much fluid but do keep an eye on the master cylinder level.
With the new caliper on, open the bleed nipple and gravity will bleed it for you.
I think you are talking about anti rattle clips too - leave them in.
John

 

[cooa99]

cheers

you don't lose much fluid but do keep an eye on the master cylinder level.

I am ashamed to ask, do you mean the brake oil reservoir under the bonnet?

I think you are talking about anti rattle clips too - leave them in.

For some reason I am not able to put the pads into place with both the top and bottom clips on. I would have taught that the tight fit will interfere with the piston pushing the pads towards the discs when breaking ...?

cooa99

 

[Burnerman]

Yep, the brake fluid reservoir under the bonnet is the one you keep an eye on level wise....let it go empty at your peril! Use DOT4 fluid.
Its usually surface rust that prevents the pads from being pushed in.....just polish the caliper bracket edges with a file, use some coppaslip grease anywhere the shims and pad touch and all will be well.
With the pads in situ, the calliper is pushed on, compressing the anti rattle springs, and the two bolts engaged.
Do post a pic of the parts if you're not sure, but I think I know what you mean.
John

 

[cooa99]

thanks very much,

I'll hopefully pick up the parts from ECP and do the job tonight or tomorrow weather permitting

cooa99

 

[AlanE]

If you are worried about losing too much fluid whilst changing then you can easily us a pair of mole grips of a small woodworking G clamp on the flexible brake pipe.

Just go easy LIGHT pressure is all that will be needed to stop the flow.

 

[cooa99]

I have a G-clamp so will use that as well .... thought cant remember if the brake-line is flexible or not to allow it to be pinched close


cooa99

 

[Burnerman]

Pinch the flexy pipe just up from the solid one that goes into the caliper - the fluid won't pass.
The new caliper comes with a new banjo bolt and washers, and the piston is wound right in.
When you fit the new pads, slide them in from the back, not the sides.
John

 

[cooa99]

Thanks for the help. I have now replaced the caliper ....
Now as expected, the brake pedal is soft ... which I guess means I need a bleed.

At this stage I am thinking maybe I need to take the car to garage since i don't have the tools to bleed nor the extra person to help out (except my 9yr daughter or heavy pregnant misus)

When I take into th sop, do I ask for a bleed or brake fluid renewal since I have not done one in the 2.5yrs I have owned the car ?



cheers

 

[Mursal]

Just a bleed if they will do it after you changing the caliper? If you are lucky it will bleed very easily as all the air may well be trapped in the new caliper.