Advice on new front garden wall

[mattu27]

Thanks again for the reply Woody, I'm happy with the depth that they're at but not with how short he was on concrete. I've measured today and we're 225mm on one end and 295mm on the other lower than the pavement.

This means he won't be able to go the entire length in concrete blocks as you'll see them for the last 1.5m as the footings are not quite level.

When I've spoke to him he's suggested cutting the blocks down so that they're under the pavement edgings, but we're talking 60mm at the other end as the house is on a slight hill.
Is this right?

Do you have any diagrams about what you mean with building the walls into the piers?

Thanks

 

[^woody^]

The builder is an idiot if he did not get the concrete level. Any messing about now should be at his cost not yours, and you don't want to be seeing blocks above the ground.

Bonded pier.

 

[mattu27]

The builder is an idiot if he did not get the concrete level. Any messing about now should be at his cost not yours, and you don't want to be seeing blocks above the ground.

Bonded pier.
View attachment 143119

Thabks,

He's got the concrete to pretty much level but there's a small dip (approx 500mm in length) near the tree which was at the end of the trench when he was pouring (still no excuse I know!)

I'm starting to think that he's only a brickie and hasn't a clue about foundations (like me), but you'd have thought that being in the trade he'd know about two courses below and frost heave.

What should I do about his suggestion with the concrete blocks? Does that seem right to cut them all? Seems alot of extra work.

Thanks for the illustration, is it offensive if I send this to him as he hasn't suggested that.

Matt

 

[stuart45]

Just a brickie should know about foundations.

 

[^woody^]

Thanks for the illustration, is it offensive if I send this to him as he hasn't suggested that.

It should be if he's a proper bricklayer.

Yes blocks can be cut to make up levels

 

[Charlie George]

one option is laying two course of block flat and section of concrete thats high use brick to level off,it sounds like your footpath is rising,in that case the concrete to footpath would be different measurement unless you want sloping wall ?. Just to add 2 course block flat can be slightly lower than 225mm.
Jim

 

[^woody^]

If he knew what he was doing, he would lay a brick on edge at the low end and feather this in to a 75mm course below the ground. Not mess around with blocks.

 

[mattu27]

one option is laying two course of block flat and section of concrete thats high use brick to level off,it sounds like your footpath is rising,in that case the concrete to footpath would be different measurement unless you want sloping wall ?. Just to add 2 course block flat can be slightly lower than 225mm.
Jim

Thanks for the reply, wouldn't that still leave the Edge of a block on show though? If the blocks are 100mm plus two mortar joints of 10mm (one being more due to the slight dip). If I read that right.

Yes the pavement is rising up the hill, not a great deal but enough to make a difference.

I regret having this guy as it's been hard work from the off, the front garden has been in a state for over a year and we really want a wall back up as the neighbours must hate looking at it. If I tell him we don't want him then we'll be talking late August at least round our way to get someone else who comes recommend.

I can suggest that woody but I don't know what that means and he probably doesn't either. A brick on edge is 100mm, would that mean doing all the courses below ground in engineering bricks? I have no idea about bricklaying.

Thanks.

 

[Charlie George]

Unless you already have block just use brick as woody says, any decent bricklayer should be able to get it level before you get above ground.
I build garden walls all the time and unless i do concreting rarely find it perfectly level,as i said any decent brickie should have no problem.
mattu you did say your brickie mentioned 3 course below ground.
Quote
The builder has came today and dug down to 500mm by 450mm wide.

He mentioned having three courses below ground level

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/advice-on-new-front-garden-wall.503831/#ixzz5IBcvoBar

 

[mattu27]

Morning,

The initial trench was 500mm deep but we went to 650, but then he ran out of concrete at 225 - 295 (as you go up the street) below ground level.

He mentioned all sorts of things but not many have come into fruition so far!

The suggestion of using blocks was only when he realised how far we were off, but the cutting of blocks doesn't sound like a good idea to me labour wise. I'd rather not put four courses of blues in as we're talking 90p per one.

Here's the list of materials I've been sent.

350 perforated 73mm blues
1000 bricks
45 concrete blocks



Thanks for all your help so far,

Matt

 

[mattu27]

Been out with a tape and two blocks following your suggestion Charlie George. The blocks are 95mm, which gives me 220mm accounting for 2 mortar joints.
String lined this through and it seems good. Thanks for the suggestion.

This means he'll be able to do the first two courses in blocks either laid flat or done in the usual fashion. I'm guessing it'll be 2 pairs of blocks at 90 degrees to each other for the pillars? So 4 stacked.

 

[Charlie George]

What i would do is build 2 course block right through ignoring pillar for now,then when he sets his brickwork put concrete block in foundation where pillars are, to be honest if any bricklayer can't get this right then i woud'nt trust him doing facework.

 

[mattu27]

What i would do is build 2 course block right through ignoring pillar for now,then when he sets his brickwork put concrete block in foundation where pillars are, to be honest if any bricklayer can't get this right then i woud'nt trust him doing facework.

Turns out you were right! Had the bricklayerq back on Saturday to start the block work, by 12 he had laid the blocks and two courses of blues above ground. At this point I was only going out to make drinks every hour or two. I went out next to find another row of blues (not asked for) and two piers partially built (5 courses)

I was going to let the extra row of blues stay as it wouldn't have bothered me too much but then I noticed there was a layer of DPC between the blues and the facing bricks. At this point I questioned as to whether it was necessary for a garden wall to be told "This is how we build houses mate" (it's a garden wall). They finished for the day and I began looking into it as I knew it shouldn't be in but didn't want to challenge until I was sure.

Next morning I messaged the brickie to say I wasn't happy with the dpc an he turned up to discuss further. "I've got that from site for you, it's needed in the wall to stop damp". I said I hadn't asked for a DPC otherwise I would have bought some myself and specified it, I purchased everything I was told to.q Strength of the wall was questioned and he told me "If it slips on the plastic you could just push the wall back into place". I said I didn't want the whole wall to move.

This is where we parted ways after his mate pitched in and got aggressive after I said I wasn't going to pay them a days wage to take it back down to blues again.

Long story short, I had to knock the wall back down and its cost me a load of materials, facing bricks and fathers day spent without my kids.

After a brick layer again now.

 

[Charlie George]

"If it slips on the plastic you could just push the wall back into place" How old is this bricklayer?, did you also feed his horse,at least you found out at this stage it could have been worse.
Best looking around and asking neighbours/friends for a decent brickie,and wait if you have too.
The only place i use dpc on garden walls is under brick on edge ,and always bed in mortar, and this depends on brick type.
Jim

 

[^woody^]

No felt DPC's are needed in garden walls except in some specific situations for aesthetics. The blues are a DPC in any case!

Not sure if you had a brickie to start with.