Advice re old Wylex setup

[ptork66]

Hello,

I'm new to the forum and have been having a read, but I think I don't know quite enough to be able to find the right threads to answer my questions. So I'm posting here.

I've recently bought my first house, and now I'm paranoid about everything, since it's started to sink in that it's all my responsibility! I apologise in advance for the length - I'm wordy at the best of times and I also don't have any idea what I'm talking about here.

TEST button - but for what

• ptork66
• 25 Nov 2019

Suspect socket

• ptork66
• 25 Nov 2019

Wylex fuse box

• ptork66
• 25 Nov 2019

Electric shower

• ptork66
• 25 Nov 2019

Meter and I don't kn

• ptork66
• 25 Nov 2019

As you can see from the photos, this is the setup I've got. I'd never actually seen a non-circuit breaker board before (and I'm from the US originally where things are Different anyway), so my questions are:

1) Are there any things in particular I should look out for? Just generally... I know I need to get someone out for a periodic inspection, but I can't right now. It's probably the first thing on my to-do within the next six months list, though.

2) I want to avoid overloading the system - should I just make sure that anything I may have plugged in and running doesn't go over the max amps listed on each of the fuses? As in the photo, the listing for what's on each one isn't incredibly helpful, so my plan is mostly to just have one thing going at a time (e.g., if washing machine is running, no oven or microwave and maybe no kettle, either).

3) If/when a fuse goes, how exactly do I switch out those fuses? Previously I've only had to find the item that malfunctioned and flip the breaker back to on! I'd also be grateful on what I need to look for in the DIY shops to - is it just called a plugin MCB? Is there any way I can tell beforehand whether I'll be able to just switch the main unit off, pull out the fuse, and plug in the new MCB thing myself or if I'll need an electrician's help?

4) Anyone got any idea what's up with that plug in TEST thing? I thought it might be some sort of add on RCD, but my Google Fu has failed me and I can't find whether that's even a thing or not...

Finally... Do I potentially need to be concerned about that one socket? The previous owner had a fondness for plug in smelly things which seems to have discoloured a lot of the sockets, though none quite like that. Until I get it properly looked at, I'm not using it, though I am using the one next to it (and, after use, it didn't feel at all hot, if that makes a difference).

Thank so much for your help.

 

[john4703]

They look like rewirable fuses. It is still possible to buy fuse wire, it usually comes on a card with 5 Amp, 10 Amp and 30 Amp wire.
It used to be possible to buy MCBs that would replace them but I do think an electrician should check it all.
Was an inspection of the wiring etc done before you bought it and a report included in the documents? It might have recommendations.

 

[chivers67]

The Fuses are rewireable cartridge type so you will need to purchase some actually fuse wire rated to the appropriate rating. Not seen that plug in thing like that before. I wouldn't use that socket it looks like the contacts have become hot at some point.

Wylex MCBS can still be bought for that board - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Wylex/Wylex_Standard_Range/index.html you could replace them rather than rewire. They pull out preferably not under load.

Your shower looks like it have RCD protection though all other circuits haven't so needs to be brought up to current regulations.

 

[JohnW2]

The Fuses are rewireable cartridge type ....

Re-wireable, not cartridge, type.

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnD]

Is there any way I can tell beforehand whether I'll be able to just switch the main unit off, pull out the fuse, and plug in the new MCB thing myself or if I'll need an electrician's help?

You can't, because the plastic shields they slot into are purposely made to different sizes, so you can't fit (say) a red 30A into the position for white 5A. And the MCB shields are slightly different.

They are not difficult to change, if you are electrically competent, but that old brown Wylex Standard is not very safe to work on. If you remove a shield, the busbars are exposed, and if you open the case, then (unless the upgrade plastic covers have been added) there are live terminals exposed on the main switch, even when turned off.

Many old lags have a box or sack of old Wylex fuseholders and MCBs, but if you're paying a qualified electrician to fit them, I honestly think you'd to better to save up and have a report on your installation (it is pretty sure to have some defects) and have it corrected and a new CU fitted in one go, with plenty of additional sockets. Your cables appear to be PVC T&E and no reason why they shouldn't be in good condition, unless they have been damaged or got hot.

The earthwires look very poor.

You socket circuits will be fused at 30Amp or 32Amp, and each such circuit can safely run two 13Amp appliances at the same time. This includes washing machine and dishwasher during the heating cycles (which only last about 10-15 minutes each) and tumble driers (which can run continuously at full power for an hour or more). Kettles and toasters as well, but they only run for a couple of minutes so not likely to cause a problem.

If you have any fuses blow, there's something wrong that wants looking at. If you have energy-saving or LED lightbulbs you shouldn't have a lighting circuit fuse blow as the load is trivial and they are not prone to nuisance tripping. You could have a few spare fuseholders ready to fit in, to save the time changing their wire, if you want.

Any sockets or switches that show signs of overheating (like in your pic) are not safe and MUST be replaced with new. New sockets are not expensive but you need electrical competence to fit them.

 

[JohnD]

update

now I look again, I see some idiot has hammered 15A (blue spot) fuseholders into the wrong shields.

Try to find a qualified electrician by personal recommendation who is a member of one of the self-certification schemes.

I am so annoyed by the incorrect fuseholders that if they are difficult to find, and you can see what the circuits are for, we can probably help, but you need an electrician willing to fit them.

Sold out here
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WYC5.html

 

[ericmark]

Not a clue about what is plugged in with test button.

Not really worried about the black marks on the USB socket. Could be from what was plugged in.

The rewireable fuses are easy swapped to MCB fitting these needs the removing of one screw with the power off

I still have these in other house, clearly having RCD protection is nice, but not essential what you need to decide is to pay £44 for MCB's which you can easy fit, £250 or so for a new consumer unit.

Last picture again easy enough to swap to a RCBO so you have RCD protection but suggest this is a job for an electrician as not sure how to isolate from pictures. As with the fuse box, if fitting a new consumer unit then this does not need doing.

Our appliances use far less amps than in USA, typical house can run on a 60A fuse, so unlikely a fuse will blow, however in the main lights use 6 amp, immersion heater 16A, ring final sockets 32A and cooker 32A shower likely 40A which is why you have a different box for shower. Seems odd not to have a 6A fuse, not a big problem, but would be a shame to buy 4 x 16A MCB's then find you need a 6A one.

Where I live best place to find tradesmen is the Pub, in the main tradesmen don't charge to give an estimate of cost to up grade.

 

[JohnD]

Not really worried about the black marks on the USB socket. Could be from what was plugged in.

To my eye, it looks not just soot-stained, but distorted from heat as well.

Perhaps I am wrong.

Ptork?

 

[JohnW2]

To my eye, it looks not just soot-stained, but distorted from heat as well. Perhaps I am wrong.

I don't know about 'distorted', but I would certainly want to give it a proper eyeballing to find out what is going on. It could, of course, be that most of it will just 'wipe off'. If it's not an optical illusion, perhaps the most 'suspicious'/concerning thing is the apparent blackening on the L-pin shutter.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ptork66]

They look like rewirable fuses. It is still possible to buy fuse wire, it usually comes on a card with 5 Amp, 10 Amp and 30 Amp wire.
It used to be possible to buy MCBs that would replace them but I do think an electrician should check it all.
Was an inspection of the wiring etc done before you bought it and a report included in the documents? It might have recommendations.

Thanks, that's very helpful. I agree that I should get an electrician in, especially as I think rewirable fuses is beyond my skills/knowledge atm. No inspection was done prior; I only did the valuation report. On Mondays, I don't regret that, and on Tuesdays, I do.

 

[ptork66]

To my eye, it looks not just soot-stained, but distorted from heat as well.

Perhaps I am wrong.

Ptork?

I don't know about 'distorted', but I would certainly want to give it a proper eyeballing to find out what is going on. It could, of course, be that most of it will just 'wipe off'. If it's not an optical illusion, perhaps the most 'suspicious'/concerning thing is the apparent blackening on the L-pin shutter.

Kind Regards, John

It doesn't wipe off. I'm fairly certain the previous people had their washing machine plugged in to it. If one of a double socket is likely dodgy, should I also stop using the fine looking one until I've checked it out? I need to do some reading on how double sockets work.

 

[JohnD]

Without taking it apart for inspection, nobody knows. But if the marks don't rub off, or if there is any sign of charring or heat distortion, you should not use it, and should replace it at the earliest opportunity. UK switches and sockets are made of a plastic which is fairly heat resistant, and does not soften, melt or easily burn, but it will char, crack, and become brittle if overheated, so can break later, for example when pulling a plug out.

washing machines have a heavy load during the heating cycle, but tumble driers are worse as it continues for longer. A BS socket should be capable of carrying a 13A load indefinitely, but some are better than others. I don't know what make that socket is. As it has USB chargers it was most likely a DIY fit and might have had loose connections or been bought on a market stall.

BTW a double socket is not required to have capacity for two 13A loads at the same time. A common cause of failure is a washing machine and a drier plugged into the same double. This frequently leads to overheating damage.

 

[ptork66]

You can't, because the plastic shields they slot into are purposely made to different sizes, so you can't fit (say) a red 30A into the position for white 5A. And the MCB shields are slightly different.

They are not difficult to change, if you are electrically competent, but that old brown Wylex Standard is not very safe to work on. If you remove a shield, the busbars are exposed, and if you open the case, then (unless the upgrade plastic covers have been added) there are live terminals exposed on the main switch, even when turned off.

Many old lags have a box or sack of old Wylex fuseholders and MCBs, but if you're paying a qualified electrician to fit them, I honestly think you'd to better to save up and have a report on your installation (it is pretty sure to have some defects) and have it corrected and a new CU fitted in one go, with plenty of additional sockets. Your cables appear to be PVC T&E and no reason why they shouldn't be in good condition, unless they have been damaged or got hot.

The earthwires look very poor.

You socket circuits will be fused at 30Amp or 32Amp, and each such circuit can safely run two 13Amp appliances at the same time. This includes washing machine and dishwasher during the heating cycles (which only last about 10-15 minutes each) and tumble driers (which can run continuously at full power for an hour or more). Kettles and toasters as well, but they only run for a couple of minutes so not likely to cause a problem.

If you have any fuses blow, there's something wrong that wants looking at. If you have energy-saving or LED lightbulbs you shouldn't have a lighting circuit fuse blow as the load is trivial and they are not prone to nuisance tripping. You could have a few spare fuseholders ready to fit in, to save the time changing their wire, if you want.

Any sockets or switches that show signs of overheating (like in your pic) are not safe and MUST be replaced with new. New sockets are not expensive but you need electrical competence to fit them.

Thanks very much for this reply. My electrical competence is limited to changing lightbulbs and fuses in kettles. I can definitely get the periodic inspection report now, I'm just not sure how much work it will pick up and I can't afford much at the moment. But I suppose I can't know if I don't do it, and I'd rather not die in a fire or be responsible for the whole row of houses going up in smoke. It's too bad my Dad (electrician/plumber/general handyman) can't visit!

My takeaway from this thread is that I need to get some quotes for a PIR, replacing that socket, and fitting the right MCBs into the Wylex or getting a new CU.

 

[flameport]

fitting the right MCBs into the Wylex or getting a new CU.

New consumer unit. Don't waste money on the existing fusebox - it's life expired and installing MCBs in it instead of fuses will achieve nothing.

 

[ptork66]

washing machines have a heavy load during the heating cycle, but tumble driers are worse as it continues for longer. A BS socket should be capable of carrying a 13A load indefinitely, but some are better than others. I don't know what make that socket is. As it has USB chargers it was most likely a DIY fit and might have had loose connections or been bought on a market stall.

BTW a double socket is not required to have capacity for two 13A loads at the same time. A common cause of failure is a washing machine and a drier plugged into the same double. This frequently leads to overheating damage.

I tend to run my washer on colder cycles, if that makes a difference, and don't have a tumble drier. And, yes, there is some suspect DIY plumbing, so I also wouldn't be surprised if that socket was shoddy DIY, too. Since the plug is used for a washer, I wish it wasn't a double at all, but I'll settle for one that isn't possibly unsafe and just not use the second. It seems like it'd be a bit more work to change it back to a single.

RE double sockets: I was just thinking that if they don't share the same wires, then using the non-burnt one might be okay. But from the very brief search I did, it looks like they share wires? But I don't think I'll risk it either way.