Advice required re: newly installed chandelier

[plugwash]

Also It may be doubtfull if G9 lampholders are allowed on the 10amp mcb.

but a D6 would be fine

 

[Adam_151]

if the C6 doesn't work, I'd be tempted to see if the CU could take a 5A BS1361

 

[SeanT]

Or spur the feed for the fitting off a switched fused spur on the ring main marked up as such?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Or replace the breaker with a B20, and take 2.5mm from that to an FCU next to the CU..

 

[JohnD]

I like the idea of a fuseholder in the CU. Fuses are slower to blow than MCBs, and are more tolerant of momentary surges, like you get at switch-on or when a bulb blows.

kixchloe, what brand is it? Can you post a pic?
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=129539

 

[securespark]

The guy put "0.4s" as the maximum discon time for lights?

Boo, hiss!

 

[Adam_151]

Could feed outside lights as well?

 

[SeanT]

That's much better and safer than my idea in the post above, why on earth did I not think of that - the basic principle remains the same, you want the breaker not to go when the light is switched on, but retain adequate overload protection for the cable - no technical reason why you couldn't 4mm the fcu cable and fit a C32, but if you had to go that far it would kinda suggest a serious problem with the light fitting!

Or replace the breaker with a B20, and take 2.5mm from that to an FCU next to the CU..

 

[kixchloe]

Hi,

What a nice forum ... everyone has been so helpful and I am definitely starting to learn something about electrics!.

In response to JohnD...

I bought the 15 light pendant chandelier from John Lewis a month or so ago in the sale, but is it now discontinued. It is called "Snezka".

I have uploaded some images of when it is actually on!:

Untitled

• kixchloe
• 4 Apr 2008
• 1

Untitled

• kixchloe
• 4 Apr 2008
• 1

I think a dimmer will help as some of you have suggested and I would like to be able to dim it anyway as it is very bright!.

I am going to try and contact the manufacturer and I am aware I can't use any old dimmer switch, but assuming it is a wire-wound transformer and uses 15 X 20W G4 low voltage bulbs (300W), any ideas on what dimmer switch would be suitable?.

Thanks,
KixChloe

 

[JohnD]

I meant, the brand name and pics of your consumer unit (fusebox) to see what can be obtained that might not trip at switch-on

 

[kixchloe]

Hi JohnD,

Sorry, read your previous post quickly and obviously not properly .

The consumer unit is a CrabTree StarBreaker.

You can see from the pic the switch labelled "All Lights" is for the upstairs and downstairs lights. I forgot to mention before, there is a seperate circuit only for the cellar lights (so when the other lights trip e.g. when a bulb blows or the chandelier surges), I can see to turn the switch back on.

Untitled

• kixchloe
• 4 Apr 2008
• 1

Thanks,
kixChloe

 

[JohnD]

'mmmm, part no beginning "61" means it is the later type with the "prong" busbar connector.

I don't think there is a fuseholder to fit

Just type "B" and "C" MCBs, and type "C" RCBOs

 

[kixchloe]

OK ... thanks.

KixChloe

 

[SeanT]

You could *try* connecting it to one of those B16s and see what happens, be sure to change it back though - then you'll know whether the suggestion above would work.

 

[333rocky333]

I think a dimmer will help as some of you have suggested and I would like to be able to dim it anyway as it is very bright!.

I am going to try and contact the manufacturer and I am aware I can't use any old dimmer switch, but assuming it is a wire-wound transformer and uses 15 X 20W G4 low voltage bulbs (300W), any ideas on what dimmer switch would be suitable?.

Best to check still with the maker.

What dimmer they recomend and the wattage you need.
Also ask them if you can use 10 watt lamps , or will it affect the transformer.

Something like this maybe
http://www.danlers.co.uk/dimmers/softstarthome.html
These maybe too deep

Or mk intelligent dimmers
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/MK/Logic_Plus_Dimmer.pdf
Not so deep these ones


To dim that , if it is wire wound you will need one suitable for a INDUCTIVE LOAD and if possible " soft start" as well.
They are not cheap though.

As the load is 300 w , I would think one rated at 400w or 500w might be suitable,
Is the existing switch just a normal square single switch or part of a two gang or more.

The problem you may have is the back of the dimmer is big, and your existing wall box may not be deep enough.

You will not know unless someone competent isolates and checks behind the switch.
There are white surface spacers if required but you might not like that idea
or else you will need to chop out and fit a deeper back box.

Your other option but a bit more involved is to remove that big lump of transformer and site a 300va soft start dimmable electronic transformer through the hole.
These tend not to surge as much.
Something like these are 315VA (Like watts)

http://www.modelighting.com/index3.asp?id=503&ion=Transformers&set=2

The chrome light plate will then refix flush to the ceiling and may even look better.
You would then need a dimmer suitable for that transformer type instead,they are generally slimmer than inductive ones.