Aerial cable or socket?

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Hi all,
I recently moved house and the lounge has a longish tv aerial cable coming in through a back box where there must have been a socket at some point.
I want to be able to plug my tv in, either directly with that cable or into a wall socket.
I don't want to leave the ugly square hole there so what's the best option? I don't mind admitting I'm a bit confused by whatever's gone on here ...
 

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Before you make any decisions with the wall, check there's a viable signal from the cable. Cut the existing plug off and fit a new one.

When you make up the new end then you'll also find out what quality of coax you're dealing with. Pre-2000s stuff has just a braid for shielding, though it will have a copper centre core. Later stuff installed because of the gradual shift to digital should have a two-layer shield comprised of braid over a foil wrap.

Digital TV signals are more prone to interference, hence the addition of a foil layer. There's a lot more interference (RFI) floating around now. You've got Wi-Fi and all the video comms gear using the 2.4GHz band, and there's mobile phone 4G/5G. Then there's the increased use of switch-mode power supplies in things such as phone charger plugs and the transformers for various bits of gear.

Christmas always sees an upswing on calls to sort out lost TV signals. It coincides with folk getting their Christmas tree lights out of storage. Those power supplies throw out some junk, and since they're often plugged in behind the TV cabinet (out of sight) then they're also close to old coax or even the newer stuff that's just a bit crap.

Recommending keeping the cable or going for a socket is always a bit of a toss up. Where you have good coax (copper foil, copper braid) then keeping the coax will deliver slightly more signal power to the TV. That might be important in a marginal signal area as a stop gap before you get the aerial proper sorted. In that case use a brush plate to finish off at the wall.

Where the coax is the old stuff, it'll still work, but can pick up more interference. As long as the TV signal isn't marginal, I'd recommend fitting a wall socket. The wall will provide some protection for the cable. The socket will then allow you to have a better shielded fly lead from the wall to the TV. A length of Webro WF100, Triax TX100 or Labgear CT100 will do the trick. There are all cables that use a copper metal foil, copper braid and copper centre core.
 
In addition to all that Lucid said, would suggest you get a good wall socket that terminates the cable well.
I like these as they are also angled reducing strain on outgoing cable and reduces need for a sharp bend if furniture placed infront.

 
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In addition to all that Lucid said, would suggest you get a good wall socket that terminates the cable well.
I like these as they are also angled reducing strain on outgoing cable and reduces need for a sharp bend if furniture placed infront.

Good points above.

Whilst on the subject of sockets, also check that the socket is shielded. This means the connection for the cable on the backplate is covered with a metal housing rather that leaving the bare wire connection exposed.
 
That MK suggestion is unshielded (reading the install instructions).
Problem with all wallplates in such small back boxes is problem of cable bending radius and risk of kinking which is bad news for UHF signals in coax cables.

If the screen is close-woven then it probably doesn't need a foil second screen. But if the inner white core can be seen it probably does.

https://www.aerialsandtv.com/knowledge/how-to-attach-wire-up-plugs-aerials-and-wall-plates is worth a read. As is http://satcure.co.uk/tech/wall_plates.htm

I'd fit a simple blanking plate, drill a clearance hole and use a grommet to protect the cable through. So keeping a continuous length (reducing termination losses and the danger of kinking the cable). Alternatives include modular wall plate brush-strips to pass the cable through and/or screened coax connections -- if the cable can be fitted without kinks etc.,. into the back box.

https://www.toolstation.com/euro-module-tvsat-outlet/p37761 is a screened example https://www.toolstation.com/euro-module-blank/p87379 and https://www.toolstation.com/axiom-modular-faceplate/p37277 would be needed - or the brush strip https://www.toolstation.com/euro-module-brush-module/p89890
 
It could be an old internet feed .
Yep. That's one of the reasons why I suggested checking if it carries a viable signal. Other possibilities are an old sat dish feed, or a link to a second room.
 
I what is there is working, you could us on of these: flex outlet plate.
Something similar could have been there before and it got taken of when there was either a problem of they decorated and was never replace.
 

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