Another oven and hob question

[cleverspark]

Hi, I am installing a seperate oven and hob into my new kitchen. as well as trying to keep my bases covered for future upgrades. Therefore I am using 10mm T&E ran from a 40A MCB.
Problem been my oven has a 13A plug attached and as usual says warranty is void if you remove the plug.
I want to try and set my system up so it is as simple as possible for future upgrades. Therefore I have thought of doing the following and would appreciate any advice if it seems the best way to do it or if there is a better way.
I am thinking of running my cable to a single 45A oven switch above my work tops and then this will drop down to a 45A oven switch and 13 A socket (fitted behind an access panel in my cupboards), this will let me plug my oven in, then I will need to run a cable from this oven switch to a speperate oven connection plate so I can hardwire my hob in.
I know it is all probably overkill but i just wanted to run all my cooker appliances from one switch.
Any Comments appreciated.
And yes I know it is part P work and I have all the relevant council forms to fill in.

 

[jj4091]

Why the second cooker switch, spur off the ccu to a single switched socket.

 

[cleverspark]

so is it possible from the 45A 1 gang oven switch above the counter, to run down to a cooker outlet plate and then spur a normal socket from this outlet plate to a normal 13A socket?
I was not sure if you could spur of the cooker outlet plate with probably 2.5 T&E to a socket to connect my oven. this is what I am trying to achieve but with usign a normal CCU with 13A socket below my work surface.
I just thought that if the full demand was on my hob then this would in fact heat the 2.5mm cable also and not make it suitable for the job?
cheers

 

[securespark]

You must use the same size cable.

 

[jj4091]

Yes, you will not be protecting the 2.5 by adding another switch, it should be on a separate circuit as it is not cabable of carrying 40A, but if you are putting it next to the ccu I think it will be ok, if you are concerned you could protect it with an fcu,but the fuse in the plug is going to achieve the same thing more or less.The 2.5 is not going to be warmed by the hob being on(you do know how to connect a spur?).

 

[ColJack]

he wouldn't be using 2.5 if he fitted the second switch..

he wants to fit a cooker switch with built in socket under the counter and plug his oven into this and then on to a cooker outlet for the hob...

the second switch and plug will be left in the ON position and the one above the counter used for isolation.. ...

this is how I read it anyway...

I've written to MK and told them that this is a recurring problem these days and gave them the idea of a cooker switch with a fused switched spur instead of a socket, and a cooker outlet that fits a double box and has 10mm for hob connection and a fused flex out for the oven...

they e-mailed back saying " sorry we don't make the items you have inquired about"...... so if you see them hit the market in a few months you know I gave them the idea...

 

[RF Lighting]

The need has cropped up so regularly RF Manufacturing now produces such a wiring device.