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Another ring main extension question

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Hello

I want to extend a ring main in a utility room. Essentially, a kitchen. There is one double socket which is connected to a ring coming down from the ceiling, with the wires chased into a wall. The socket is located directly above a sink (or will be, once the new units are in place) and I suspect (ha ha!) this is not per regulations. I need to remove it, but also extend the ring connections to feed new sockets to the left and right of the existing one.

I don't want a cover plate for a connector box over the sink. I know that connector boxes have to be accessible for inspection / test / repair. So, I am thinking about mounting one further up the wall, where a cupboard will be, and cutting a hole in the back of the cupboard for access to the connector box. From there I could run the ring extension in the normal way to the new sockets.

Sounds reasonable?

Question 2 : What type of connector box should I use? It would need 6 connectors (Live Earth Neutral x2) in order to extend the ring wires. For example, are Wago connectors suitable? If, for example, I installed a metal box with wago connectors to extend the ring cables, would this comply with regs? And do the connectors require additional insulation (such as heat shrink)?

Example connector: https://www.amazon.co.uk/2773-2401-Inline-Push-Splicing-Connectors/dp/B0DBHQGQQW

(32A rated splicing connector.)
 
Last edited:
Question 2 : What type of connector box should I use? It would need 6 connectors (Live Earth Neutral x2) in order to extend the ring wires.
It doesn't matter if you can access them.

Anything suitable from the old fashioned connector block to the newest-fangled design.
 
why don't you put the junction (or socket or blank) above the cupboard. You won't see it.
A socket May even be useful for extractor fan or lights. But a double blank is easier to make 6 joints

Maybe use Wagos
 
Are you saying that both ring cables come down the wall together to the existing socket?
Yes. All the sockets are fed from the ceiling as the house has a concrete floor, so the downstairs ring main actually goes round the ceiling.

To remove the socket I would need to pull the wires out of the wall and extend them using something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/2773-2401-Inline-Push-Splicing-Connectors/dp/B0DBHQGQQW - then I can run the extended wires to the new sockets in the normal ring fashion. But I assume using these Wagos I would need to enclose them in a box, and then that box would need to be accessible.
 
Yes. All the sockets are fed from the ceiling as the house has a concrete floor, so the downstairs ring main actually goes round the ceiling.
Ok.
To remove the socket I would need to pull the wires out of the wall and extend them
Well - sort of.
Cut them back to the new position and then add new cables.

using something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/2773-2401-Inline-Push-Splicing-Connectors/dp/B0DBHQGQQW - then I can run the extended wires to the new sockets in the normal ring fashion.
Yes.

But I assume using these Wagos I would need to enclose them in a box,
Not if they are enclosed in a normal back-box.

and then that box would need to be accessible.
That depends which you use.
You said they would be accessible so nothing complicated need be done.

Further to what Andy said: put a socket above the cupboard and use that - only three connectors needed.
 
And obviously you need to check and confirm the continuity of the 3 conductors
 
How is it that you are not uncertain that it isn’t anything other than what couldnt possibly be a non spur arrangement as opposed to not being a ring?
 
Sorry...? Do you mean "How do you know it is a ring as opposed to a spur?" ?

Because a) it is the only socket in the room and b) it has two separate cables connected to it (were it a spur you would only have one). So I have assumed it is part of the ring.
 
Sorry...? Do you mean "How do you know it is a ring as opposed to a spur?" ?
Yes.
Because a) it is the only socket in the room
You assert that the cables originate from above i.e the ceiling and as though that alone dictates the purpose.

Yet is it not equally plausible that a cable descending from above might just as well be supplying a socket above or any number of other terminations, rather than solely serving the one below?

To presume otherwise is to adopt a position that cannot not be challenged.
and b) it has two separate cables connected to it (were it a spur you would only have one).
What if it’s a spur off a spur? What if it’s supplying a light? How many wires would you end up with now?
So I have assumed it is part of the ring.
Others have mentioned above that you need to check if it’s actually a ring.

What is the cable size?

Also, as mentioned, please ensure that the cabling is going to run in the safe zones.
 
If you disconnect the cables (safely), do you have 240V between L&N and L&E on both, and do all the other sockets still work?
 
You really ought to do a proper continuity test and not assume anything - assume makes an ASS of U and ME !


There are actually other tests you should be making too.
 

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