Any Tilers here? Is this base good enough for Tiles or?

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Happy New year Everyone,

Don't have much experience in tiling , I'm in process of gutting out my old bathroom now, replacing piping and everything else in it in the process therefore making a total mess out of my walls. Also removed some tiles and now the old base under the tiles looks pretty terrible and with lots and lots of holes in old plasterboard from when removing the old tiles.
I'm going to be doing every wall except ceiling in tiles and now I'm not even sure if I can just put on new tiles on my old walls in case they just don't stick or the holes/lumps create a further problems?
at first I thought I was just going to rub down all the lumps/bumps and fill out the most problematic areas and just put tiles over everything...Now I'm not so sure about that :D

I have made some pictures, was wondering if anyone who has some good experience in tiling could tell me is the base good enough for tiles or I would be better off just doing a skim coat of plaster on everything to smooth everything out and create a good base for tiles? Work wise This would set me back about a day to plaster every wall and few extra days until it dries so not really that problematic.

Pics: http://imgur.com/a/HvV8y
 
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Any job in construction starts off with foundation work and if that is not done right what follows will likely also not be right. There is nothing wrong with making repairs to plasterboard but if there are as you say, lots and lots of holes, the usual remedy is to rip that plasterboard off and fit new. The nature of what board you put back will depend on the use of the area. For shower areas I would recommend tile backing board or at least a moisture resistant board.

A skim coat is unlikely to help you, it is just another layer bonding to that base and in any event a skim coat needs a even flat base to start with as it is a finishing coat not a levelling coat and you would need a bonding agent for it in that situation. An untidy looking base is not a problem if the integrity of the plasterboard is sound. Exposed new plaster surfaces where the old surface has been removed should be primed. You don't want to have a large variation of porousity when you apply adhesive.

If in doubt rip the old board off and fit new.
 
Rip the boards off, fit hardiebacker and tile, as said in previous post, prep work is most important. If you don't want to fit backer and keep it cheap just reboard. But considering the price of some tiles these days I always wonder why people want to skimp on the bread and butter for the sake of a few quid.
 
Rip the boards off, fit hardiebacker and tile, as said in previous post, prep work is most important. If you don't want to fit backer and keep it cheap just reboard. But considering the price of some tiles these days I always wonder why people want to skimp on the bread and butter for the sake of a few quid.
I'm not sure if there's even any real cost savings? I bought few cementboards from wickes and they came out to around £8.9 per m2 , moisture plasterboard is like £4.5 per m2? Considering you only need few m2 most of the times it doesn't makes sense indeed ;)

However.. I have plasterboard only on 1 wall.. the rest are all solid so I still need a way to fix those as well, that is if it's even needed for tiling?
 
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I'm not sure if there's even any real cost savings? I bought few cementboards from wickes and they came out to around £8.9 per m2 , moisture plasterboard is like £4.5 per m2? Considering you only need few m2 most of the times it doesn't makes sense indeed ;)

However.. I have plasterboard only on 1 wall.. the rest are all solid so I still need a way to fix those as well, that is if it's even needed for tiling?

The difference being that backer only comes in 4x2 ~£7/sheet
Whereas standard p/b is 8x4 ~£5/sheet
Some people really do like to skimp you wouldn't believe. You only need to remove board and replace (or use backer if doing so) just tile the solid walls, make sure plasters solid not blown.
 
Plasterboard, whilst moisture resistant, can still blow rather badly if it fails. Get some Hardiebacker, fix as per MI and then you're good to go. Sure it's not the cheapest way but hell, it's reliable.
 

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