Anyone know of the Hager VE24H CU?

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Hello all
looking at the hager ve24h for the garage.
anyone used one that can tell me does it take more than 2 mcb's?
Always see it pictured with 2 and it always states 2way however there is 2 blank ways.. Can it take another 2 mcbs making 4 in total? would want an extra 2 x 16a in there for 16a tools, Note: 2 x 16a machines would not be running at the same time.
Here it is: http://www.sparkydirect.co.uk/produ...6-Amp-MCB-Consumer-Unit-Fuseboard-/index.html
or
http://www.discount-electrical.co.u...ith-1-x-32a---1-x-6a-mcbs---40a-30ma-rcd-ip55
Thanks
 
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Maximum number of MCB's (according to the second website): 2.

So, without altering the CU yourself and probably having to source and fit a longer busbar, it will not be possible.

The brand is good, but why are you keen on that particular unit?
 
Thanks
Mainly i hoped it would do 4 msbs in my garage.
1 for sockets
1 for lights
1 for 16a commando socket
1 for 16a commando socket

or maybe ditch one of them commando sockets and have 1 for freezer.

can you recommend a cu for that?
feed is 10m run of 10mm 2c+e from 40a mcb in main house cu.

cheers
 
You don't need to buy a garage CU as some sellers like to call them. Any CU with the incommer and number of ways you require will be fine.

Hager is a good make to go for.
 
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If coming from a 40 amp MCB from the house, the RCCB incomer in the garage has to be 40 amp or above. So you could use 63 or 100.

This is because the RCCB in the garage doesn't offer over-current protection - the MCB at the house end does this.

So the RCCB in the garage has to be 'rated' at 40 amp or above.

The RCCB needs to be 30 mA, aka 0.03 A.

Assuming the garage is detached, the supply cable should be SWA cable or similar. This is because it would seem the cable won't be RCD protected.
 
Hi

Ok that makes good sense.
The garage is attached, New 10mm cable (NOT SWA) runs under kitchen and living rm floor boards (60's ex council uninsulated house) then straight through brick wall to attached garage.
 
The garage is attached, New 10mm cable (NOT SWA) runs under kitchen and living rm floor boards (60's ex council uninsulated house) then straight through brick wall to attached garage.
Is any of that cable run from house CU to garage buried in walls ('less than 50mm deep')? If so, since it's not SWA, it would need RCD protection at the house CU end.

Kind Regards, John
 
The garage is attached, New 10mm cable (NOT SWA) runs under kitchen and living rm floor boards (60's ex council uninsulated house) then straight through brick wall to attached garage.
Is any of that cable run from house CU to garage buried in walls ('less than 50mm deep')? If so, since it's not SWA, it would need RCD protection at the house CU end.

Kind Regards, John

Hi John
No it will be lying freely under the floor, not buried in walls, Just passes through wall into garage then straight up about 1.5m in conduit to the garage CU.
 
So..

Say this unit was used: http://www.consumerunitworld.co.uk/hager-consumer-unit--6-way--100a-main-switch-plastic-104-p.asp

Am i right in thinking i would have 2 options with it.

option 1: Keep the 100a DP in it that comes with it and use RCBO for each run in the garage. ie: sockets, lights, 16a tools etc (expensive though?)

OR

option 2: Get rid of the 100a DP in it that comes with it and replace with either a 40a, 63, or 100a (makes no difference the size) DP RCD and then use standard MCB's (Cheaper)

Thanks
 
Hi John ... No it will be lying freely under the floor, not buried in walls, Just passes through wall into garage then straight up about 1.5m in conduit to the garage CU.
Fair enough. Do I therefore take it that it gets from'under the floor' to the house CU on the surface of a wall?

Kind Regards, John
 
Hi John ... No it will be lying freely under the floor, not buried in walls, Just passes through wall into garage then straight up about 1.5m in conduit to the garage CU.
Fair enough. Do I therefore take it that it gets from'under the floor' to the house CU on the surface of a wall?

Kind Regards, John
That's correct John, It will come up the same hole in the floor where the main power comes into the house, Right under the CU.
Cheers
 
...Am i right in thinking i would have 2 options with it.
option 1: Keep the 100a DP in it that comes with it and use RCBO for each run in the garage. ie: sockets, lights, 16a tools etc (expensive though?)
OR
option 2: Get rid of the 100a DP in it that comes with it and replace with either a 40a, 63, or 100a (makes no difference the size) DP RCD and then use standard MCB's (Cheaper)
That sounds about right to me, but there considerations other than 'cheapness'. With your (cheaper) option 2, if one of your machines developed a fault, it could 'take out' everything, including the lights', which could present a hazard. With option 1 (RCBOs) that wouldn't happen, unless the nature of the fault was such as to make the 40A MCB in the house trip.

If you went with your option 2, I would personally want an RCD rated at no less than 63A (which most are), even though there is a 40A upstream MCB - but maybe that is just me!

Sooner or later, someone is going to point out to you that if (as sounds to be the case) this is going to be a 'new circuit' from your house CU, that is therefore would be 'notifiable work'. If so, are you aware of that, and its implications?

Kind Regards, John
 
Why on earth do you need a CU in the garage at all? If there is a main RCD in the house you don't need or want another in the garage. Garage lights can come off downstairs lighting circuit. Freezer can come off kitchen ring. Maybe an extra way in the main CU for the commando sockets.
 
...Am i right in thinking i would have 2 options with it.
option 1: Keep the 100a DP in it that comes with it and use RCBO for each run in the garage. ie: sockets, lights, 16a tools etc (expensive though?)
OR
option 2: Get rid of the 100a DP in it that comes with it and replace with either a 40a, 63, or 100a (makes no difference the size) DP RCD and then use standard MCB's (Cheaper)
That sounds about right to me, but there considerations other than 'cheapness'. With your (cheaper) option 2, if one of your machines developed a fault, it could 'take out' everything, including the lights', which could present a hazard. With option 1 (RCBOs) that wouldn't happen, unless the nature of the fault was such as to make the 40A MCB in the house trip.

If you went with your option 2, I would personally want an RCD rated at no less than 63A (which most are), even though there is a 40A upstream MCB - but maybe that is just me!

Sooner or later, someone is going to point out to you that if (as sounds to be the case) this is going to be a 'new circuit' from your house CU, that is therefore would be 'notifiable work'. If so, are you aware of that, and its implications?

Kind Regards, John

Yes I do know its notifiable and certainly will be. I'm just trying to get a good understanding of what's going on.
Yes i was reading about that problem that may occur. (nuisance tripping).
Working it out i could probably just go the RCBO route as i wouldn't need to buy a 63a DP rcd then. so thats the price of one rcbo. then it's just maybe £15? more for each run in the garage, Not the end of the world as there is only going to be 4 or so anyway, And if i ever have a pesky old machine that trips out for any reason i would rather have light to get to the CU :)
 

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