Anyone tiled a kitchen surface and not regretted it?

[asnoop20]

I'm in the process of choosing a kitchen surface and thinking why not porcelain tiles on plywood? As I see it there are no drawbacks other than time.

1. totally waterproof
2. tough
3. tiles can be replaced if it comes to that with a mini grinder to cut them out
4. cheap, somewhere between laminate and beech
5. won't stain (the grout might if it's a light colour, epoxy grout available but costs more)
6. not effected by heat from pans etc
7. looks good

Thoughts, am I mad to consider it?

 

[Old Salt]

used to be reasonably common about 50 years ago. Not exclusive but an option. never done it myself but have seen it. Grouting needs to be well maintaied, ply should be "marine" grade {?}.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Have a search using the forum search https://www.diynot.com/diy/search/ also scroll down and see a few similar threads, the grout should be a food safe type.

 

[Lower]

It’ll be difficult to keep hygienically clean. Too many crevices in the tile gaps and grout.

 

[asnoop20]

It’ll be difficult to keep hygienically clean. Too many crevices in the tile gaps and grout.

I was thinking big floor tiles, 600 x 300 to minimise the grout. Going backwards and forwards on whether it's a good idea over beech.

 

[robinbanks]

You could get some massive tiles, like the outdoor ones that are 1200x600; they're practically worktops anyway, and then joint them with silicone/butt them up to zero gap (buy rectified ones so they have perfectly straight edges)

I'd do it, but then I'm well into doing atypical stuff. Have turned a pool table bed into a breakfast bar before now

 

[ree]

OP,
Work top (counter top) tiling is very common in Mexico & the US. Its safe, hygienic and practical.
Various factors have to be taken into account eg type of sink, & backing such as - ply, backer board or mortar (mud job)? And as always Schluter Ditra or similar, tile mats.
Why not visit johnbridge.com - go to the tile forum & be amazed at the friendly & helpful mods.
Read up on counter tops then join & ask your questions - you will receive terrific & expert help.

 

[asnoop20]

I've got a month before the kitchen arrives to choose my poison. I do think wood is the wrong material for the job at least around the sink where water will always splash out to the back. Silicone it all I can it'll still sit on the wood and absorb eventually and there's plenty of people complaining about beech going dark after a while.

At the same time I don't like the idea of quartz/granite because of the non repairable nature of it. Tiles on the other hand can be carefully removed to replace just the one. They can also be very tough, cost effective, take up any tolerance I'm guaranteed to have on my bong-eyed walls etc...

1200x600, interesting, 600 being worktop size like you say zero gap and that may work well. I'll do some further research.

 

[Lower]

I was thinking big floor tiles, 600 x 300 to minimise the grout. Going backwards and forwards on whether it's a good idea over beech.

There is a reason why its not common over here any more. Personally, i'd just do the beech. It'll look better, last longer, and being slightly softer is less likely to chip your crockery or get chipped when you drop something on it.

Wood that has been well oiled with plenty of coats of Osmo oil is very waterproof and can always be sanded back and reoiled in the future.

 

[opps]

Used to have beech worktops. I had to strip and re-oil them every 4 years or so. One day I opted for a clear 2K worktop lacquer sprayed with my HVLP. I was able to apply 3 coats in one day.

I was happy with the finish and durability, a friend commented that they looked like laminated worktops (not a complement)...

 

[opps]

I did tile a worktop years ago. I made the mistake of using regular grout. The grout looked filthy pretty quickly.

Years later, I tilled a hob splash back with multicoloured glass mosaic tiles. I went for a silver epoxy grout. A pig to work with but cooking splashes just wiped off, even the next day when using a green scouring pad.

 

[asnoop20]

The thing with epoxy is you can't repair it, won't a dark grey grout look decent after a lot of usage? It does on my bathroom floor (not that I urinate on it mind).

If I go with beech I need 3 joins as 4M lengths are hard to come by. These large 1200mm tiles aren't much more, perhaps 5 or 6.

 

[Notch7]

The thing with epoxy is you can't repair it, won't a dark grey grout look decent after a lot of usage? It does on my bathroom floor (not that I urinate on it mind).

If I go with beech I need 3 joins as 4M lengths are hard to come by. These large 1200mm tiles aren't much more, perhaps 5 or 6.

wood worktops need maintenance, around a wink you will have to wipe up constantly

porcelain is a good option, but how would you do the edging? -I think timber edging looks a bit 80s

Im not sure how flat porcelain times are -ceramic tiles always seem to be bowed

I would def go for epoxy grout

These large 1200mm tiles aren't much more, perhaps 5 or 6

have you had experience of laying such large tile? -I believe there is a bit of a technique


overall: I think you could end up with a great worktop surface, not far off granite but at a fraction of the cost

 

[opps]

The thing with epoxy is you can't repair it, won't a dark grey grout look decent after a lot of usage? It does on my bathroom floor (not that I urinate on it mind).

Sorry, I don't understand.

Why would you need to to repair epoxy grout?

Your bathroom floor, pee isn't necessarily a problem with regards to changing the colour. Tiles on worktops however are subject to stains such as tomato juices, tumeric and cooking oils (etc).

Polishing the excess grout off is a pain though.

 

[asnoop20]

wood worktops need maintenance, around a wink you will have to wipe up constantly

porcelain is a good option, but how would you do the edging? -I think timber edging looks a bit 80s

Im not sure how flat porcelain times are -ceramic tiles always seem to be bowed

I would def go for epoxy grout


have you had experience of laying such large tile? -I believe there is a bit of a technique


overall: I think you could end up with a great worktop surface, not far off granite but at a fraction of the cost

Not this big, plenty of 600x300's on walls though. On to nice flat ply won't be hard.

I didn't think porcelain would stain, not like wood will anyway? The grout yes, but a dark grout less so. Epoxy grout, I was thinking more if a tile does get cracked and it needs cutting out.

These are ones I like the look off. One other benefit is I'll have oak flooring and beech wont match with it. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Bou...elain-Wall+Floor-Tile---1200-x-600mm/p/287198

I'm thinking stainless angle trim, it's only got to hide the 9mm tile + 18mm ply + 1mm adhesive.