how to tile a kitchen worktop

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hi,i have a laminate kitchen worktop, in good condition, but not fond of the colour so thought of tiling it, i thought it was be simple as tiling a wall, but will i need special adhesive? was wondering if normal waterproof adhesive would stick the tiles on the laminate, and would i need special grout? also would i need to attach plywood to the worktop?

any advice would be most appreciated
 
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It's pretty similar, yes.

First off, you'd need to make sure the surface is clean and free of debris. You can attach plywood, as if you (or someone else) ever needed or wanted to take the tiles up would damage the worktop. (It's not necessary though).

I'd recommend a flexible adhesive as they are more resilient to heat, and are generally advisable anyway, as walls and tops can shift over time.

Regular grout would be fine, although make sure you seal the grout with a waterproof sealer.

You'll also have to square off any round edges before you began.

Also be sure to lay out the tiles first, paying particular attention to the edges of the work top, and around the sink. You might also want to consider adding a backsplash (or updating one you already have).

Hope this helps!
 
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Oh, and you might also need to take out the sink/stove depending on your set up. If you do this make sure you turn the water off ;)
 
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hi, ive bought natural slate tiles, do you think this is suitable for the worktop? also it says they need natural stone adhesive, but im having trouble finding them. any help would be appreciated
 
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you CANT tile onto lamite,it wont work and it will fail!!!..the adhesive wont bond to it.. and its not strong or rigid enough to take tiles, ecspeically slate!!! or any tile come to mention it..

you have been given wrong advice there....

also you will need an epoxy grout for any food areas.
 
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jeez.. just read your replys there from bob the biulder.... :rolleyes:

its a worktop made of MDF with...what a 2-3mm peice of laminte glued ontop of it..there is no way on gods earth that tiling ontop of this would work.....
 
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jeez.. just read your replys there from bob the biulder.... :rolleyes:

its a worktop made of MDF with...what a 2-3mm peice of laminte glued ontop of it..there is no way on gods earth that tiling ontop of this would work.....

now now Davie mate, cont compare bob the builder to this numpty, Bob would get a bad name in business.
But you are CORRECT, he has been given TOTAL and UTTER BULLSH*T advice, NORMAL GROUT ha ha ha, he dont know what epoxy grout is

am having a really good snigger at this like


O.P
Take no notice of the builders advice mate, Davies (tic tic) is spot on
 
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Regular grout would be fine, although make sure you seal the grout with a waterproof sealer.
:eek: :eek:

Under no circumstances use normal grout on a kitchen worktop, Epoxy Grout is the only grout to use, it is totally waterproof and chemically resistant therefore stops the cross contamination from foodstuffs and subsequent disease, E. coli O157:H7, Salmonella, Hepatitis A, Campylobacter, Shigella, Norovirus, and Listeria.

Gaz
 
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ok, thanks for the advice, is that why you place backer board first ? or is it just best to avoid tiling the work top altogother?
 
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ok, thanks for the advice, is that why you place backer board first ? or is it just best to avoid tiling the work top altogother?
You can tile directly onto your laminate after sanding it up to create a key, using BAL Mosaic-Fix adhesive, then BAL Easypoxy to grout it Ali.

Gaz
 
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ok, thanks for the advice, is that why you place backer board first ? or is it just best to avoid tiling the work top altogother?
You can tile directly onto your laminate after sanding it up to create a key, using BAL Mosaic-Fix adhesive, then BAL Easypoxy to grout it Ali.

Gaz

i still wouldnt advice this,by the time you have removed your sink/hob(if gas you will need an RGI)..and probaly damaged the worktop..then buying the bal mosaic fix/epoxy grout..you would be cheaper replacing the worktop...

even sanding the laminate which is ..what 2-3mm thick!!..whats going to be left off it?...its a no..no..from me.
 
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.......I'm just thinking about the front edge of the worktop, certainly not ideal to be fixing a tile to a bull nose top, this whole idea has DIY lash up written all over it.

It's the sort of thing that will be completed and admired by the installer and noone else.
 
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I did a quick bodge with my worktops, used 600mm floor tiles, standard adhesive and no grout line , seal joints as I laid with clear silicone, sliced 40mm strips to clad front edge.
 
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Very impressed with your tiled worktop. We have had smaller tiles on ours for years and now just about to change them.

We have just been out and purchased 600 x 600 porcelain tiles as they will fit perfectly.

One problem!! Are yours porcelain and did you seal yours with Polished Porcelain Protector?

Now - after sitting down and reading the tin I have got a little hesitant as to whether this product is safe to use when in contact with food even when it is 'cured' after 12 hours.

Your thoughts would be very much appreciated.
 

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