how to tile a kitchen worktop

[tavsy]

I did a quick bodge with my worktops, used 600mm floor tiles, standard adhesive and no grout line , seal joints as I laid with clear silicone, sliced 40mm strips to clad front edge.

Untitled

• foxhole
• 11 Nov 2008
• 10

Message for Foxhole - I know this was a really old post now but impressed by the look of your tiled kitchen from your photo. Want to achieve something similar.

Have bought 600mm tiles for the job but lot of negative input re tiled worktops.

How did your worktop fare and how did silicone joints hold up?

 

[AdamCH]

I tiled my kitchen worktop 10 years ago. It's manmade granite tiled onto 30mm MDF with a Oak edge trim. I know better now than to tile to MDF now but modern adhesives are very tolerant and it's still well stuck down.

I did use black epoxy grout though. I can't think what the OP thought he was doing using silicone.

 

[ree]

tavsy,

Tiled work tops are as good to go as any other material.
If you want advice on doing the job just ask away.

A very basic checklist of things to think about would be:

Cut-outs for sink and hob in the backing.
Select the backing from 3/4" ply and/or backer board or a S&C floated surface.
Back splash and elec. outlets.
How to finish the front edging. It must not interfere with base unit doors or drawers.
How will the sink and hob be set in the tile.

foxhole is still posting - click on his username to contact him or her.

 

[tavsy]

Thanks for replies.

To be honest, I thought 30mm MDF was the best to tile onto. What do you recommend instead, as not entirely clear.

Noted for epoxy grout rather than silicone.

 

[ree]

I've no knowledge or experience of tiling onto MDF.

3/4" ply with 1/4" or 1/2" backer board glued and screwed on top can be used - the trick is getting the surface perfectly level both ways.

Or 3/4" ply can be floated over with a screed of sand and cement to give a depth and levelness that you control.

Epoxy grout can be harsh for a DIY'er, ordinary, non-white grout that is sealed when dry will do. Or use epoxy but practice a bit before going at it.

As above, all details must be worked out in advance.
Dont use an undermount sink.

 

[AdamCH]

Thanks for replies.

To be honest, I thought 30mm MDF was the best to tile onto. What do you recommend instead, as not entirely clear.

Noted for epoxy grout rather than silicone.

I'd be tempted to use a good quality exterior Ply and tile direct to it with a good quality cement based adhesive. Should be good enough for a worktop - my MDF has help up perfectly after all - if everything is well sealed with Epoxy grout then the backing shouldn't get wet.

Epoxy grout can be messy but I found that Turps (not white spirit) cleans it up perfectly. You might find Acetone also works but haven't tried it.

 

[tavsy]

Thanks for the advice from you both.

 

[foxhole]

I did a quick bodge with my worktops, used 600mm floor tiles, standard adhesive and no grout line , seal joints as I laid with clear silicone, sliced 40mm strips to clad front edge.

Untitled

• foxhole
• 11 Nov 2008
• 10

Message for Foxhole - I know this was a really old post now but impressed by the look of your tiled kitchen from your photo. Want to achieve something similar.

Have bought 600mm tiles for the job but lot of negative input re tiled worktops.

How did your worktop fare and how did silicone joints hold up?

Everything still good .Just a few edge chips where the mrs threw dinner at me.

Untitled

• foxhole
• 27 Jun 2014
• 2

 

[ree]

I was impressed by the use of large tile on a work top - i've never done it that way or even seen it done but i cant think of any cons, and yours has lasted 4 years. Good job.

Were the factory edges self/dark colored?

 

[tavsy]

never criticise a woman's cooking !!

Do you mean the front edge?
I have seen you can get a steel strip the tile slots into. This would hopefully avoid the edge knocks.

Glad you reported it's held up well. What about the joints and do they fill with grime?