You must let it dry out thoroughly first however long it takes; it could be weeks if it’s really bad & ideally should be tested with a damp meter if you can get hold of one. If you try to overboard while it’s still damp the adhesive won’t stick, you’ll get mould & musty smells. A heater will certainly help but leave the bathroom window open & the door shut, if you don’t the moisture will just condense on a cool surface somewhere else in the property. A dehumidifier should also be used if you have one as this also extracts moisture from the air, speeding up the process.
Beveled edge crackle glaze white brick tiles 200x100mm
- Thread starter Yukster
- Start date
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My bathroom wall has been drying after I removed the render. The plan is to dry-line the entire wall with 20mm Marmox boards, re-tile up to 2m height around the bath and then continuously but lower down around the sink. The top bit of the wall will be skimmed and painted. The bath and sink are run along the same wall.
The sink is currently attached to the solid brick wall with two long screws. Do you think I could mount this heavy sink on to the Marmox board and into the brick wall behind it? Naturally, there will be a gap between the Marmox board and the wall. I am concerned that the board could crack under the weight of my sink. What would you advise?
The sink is currently attached to the solid brick wall with two long screws. Do you think I could mount this heavy sink on to the Marmox board and into the brick wall behind it? Naturally, there will be a gap between the Marmox board and the wall. I am concerned that the board could crack under the weight of my sink. What would you advise?
Think you’ll be OK with the Marmox, as long as the fixings go well into the brick wall behind but, personally, I wouldn’t rely on two screws to hold the sink in place even directly fixed to the brick wall, did the sink not come with support brackets? The force on the screws will be tremendous if someone leans on the outer edge of the sink; I’m surprised it’s still on there unless the waste is also providing some support!
Where similar sinks haven’t come with support brackets, I’ve fabricated “L” brackets from 6mm x 30mm galvanized steel bar to provide support under the rim of the sink on each side; I bury the vertical part of the bracket (well fixed) into the wall behind plaster or cut boards to fit around them; you don’t see the supports once it’s all tiled.
Where similar sinks haven’t come with support brackets, I’ve fabricated “L” brackets from 6mm x 30mm galvanized steel bar to provide support under the rim of the sink on each side; I bury the vertical part of the bracket (well fixed) into the wall behind plaster or cut boards to fit around them; you don’t see the supports once it’s all tiled.
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The sink didn't come with brackets and Colorwash who sold it to me advised to fit it with the screws provided. The sink has been fitted eight years ago is pretty solid. It's not come off the wall or anything like that. I'm guessing the waste is providing some support.
I'll look into fitting in brackets as you suggested. Sounds like a good idea. But I'm not plastering so should I attach the vertical bit of the L bracket to the brick wall and cut a hole in the Marmox for the horizontal bit to come through?
I'll look into fitting in brackets as you suggested. Sounds like a good idea. But I'm not plastering so should I attach the vertical bit of the L bracket to the brick wall and cut a hole in the Marmox for the horizontal bit to come through?
That’s what I do; you should be able to recess the back of the board to cover the bracket rather than cut lumps out of it. If not fill up & level off with cement tile adhesive before you tile.
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