Blanking off a double plug socket

[ClarryUk]

Hi - Sorry if this has been covered before, but I couldn't find it if it has!

I need to blank off a double plug socket, as I'm having a radiator moved to the wall it's on, and I think it's something I could do myself, rather than get an electrician in specially for.

I just want to confirm that I know I'm doing it right though...

Would I just take the existing socket cover off, detach the wires, then use a 30 amp connector strip to connect the blue to blue, brown to brown and earth to earth, then fit a blanking plate over it all?

If anyone has any pics or useful websites about this, that'd be great!

Also, does anyone know a good electrician around London SE10 or so, who could do some other works later on that I wouldn't attempt myself? (moving some light fittings, installing new sockets, installing halogen ceiling lights etc)?

Blanking off the socket is urgent though so I need to do this very soon, so any advice on that would be helpful.

Thanks

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes, OK to do the blanking off as you describe.

For qualified, registered spark in your area go to www.competentperson.co.uk and type in your postcode.

 

[ClarryUk]

Thanks for that. I feel confident I can blank the socket off now, and I'll give some of the electricians on that site a call!

 

[BS3036]

Actually, if the connector won't be accessible, you would need to use crimps or solder (covered with heat shrink), rather than a connector block. If you can still access the cover without removing the radiator, then the screw connections are ok.

 

[ClarryUk]

"Actually, if the connector won't be accessible, you would need to use crimps or solder (covered with heat shrink), rather than a connector block. If you can still access the cover without removing the radiator, then the screw connections are ok."

I'm not sure what you mean, to be honest.

Once the rad is on the wall, it will be right infront of this socket, so the socket would no longer be accessible without removing the rad.

Why would it need to be?

 

[saxondale]

"Actually, if the connector won't be accessible, you would need to use crimps or solder (covered with heat shrink), rather than a connector block. If you can still access the cover without removing the radiator, then the screw connections are ok."

I'm not sure what you mean, to be honest.

Once the rad is on the wall, it will be right infront of this socket, so the socket would no longer be accessible without removing the rad.

Why would it need to be?

screwed joints can come loose (rare but it does happen) dont do the usual diy trick of putting your cable into the connector from opposite sides, both cores in from the bottom, tighten the bottom screw tight and the top screw tight then re-tighten the bottom one

and make sure your screwing down onto the conductor not the sleeve

 

[ClarryUk]

"Actually, if the connector won't be accessible, you would need to use crimps or solder (covered with heat shrink), rather than a connector block. If you can still access the cover without removing the radiator, then the screw connections are ok."

I'm not sure what you mean, to be honest.

Once the rad is on the wall, it will be right infront of this socket, so the socket would no longer be accessible without removing the rad.

Why would it need to be?

screwed joints can come loose (rare but it does happen) dont do the usual diy trick of putting your cable into the connector from opposite sides, both cores in from the bottom, tighten the bottom screw tight and the top screw tight then re-tighten the bottom one

and make sure your screwing down onto the conductor not the sleeve

Um, ,I don't really know what you mean but maybe it'll become apparent when I come to do it!

ARe there any handy visual guides anywhere I can refer to?

 

[RF Lighting]

I had an ring final circuit to fault find a while back.

It was open circuit on the end to end test for the CPCs.

I tracked it down to a failed screwed connection at a socket behind a radiator.

 

[ClarryUk]

Alternatively, would it be OK to leave the socket there, as it is, switched off, with a child-safety plug cover in it?

I don't think these rads of mine get red hot, so it'd be easier not to have to fiddle with the wiring...

Would that be alright?

 

[GaryMo]

No, it's not available for inspection.
Remove the socket face, through crimp the cables and fit a twin blank plate.

 

[ClarryUk]

I'm not familiar with the crimping thing! Do I need to do that instead of using a connector strip? If so, what does it entail?

 

[GaryMo]

Under BS7671 (electrical wiring regulations) all connections must be accessible for inspection.
There's a short list of connection methods which are exempt, connection by a compression tool being one of them, solder another.
To be honest it may work out cheaper for you to solder the connections if you've got an iron as a good quality crimping tool is going to cost upwards of £30 unless you can borrow one?
If you opt for the soldering method then you'll need a short length of heat shrink to cover the connections (don't use insulation tape). Heat shrink will be available from most good electrical wholesalers or somewhere like Maplin.

Pre insulated butt crimps are here - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Crimp_Lugs_and_Tools/index.html

You would need blue for the 2.5mm live and neutral conductors and red for the bare 1.5mm (or 1mm if older cable) cpc (sleeve with g/y sleeving though).

This is a crimping tool though can't verify its quality
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DVDHCR15.html