Bleeding the clutch on MX5 MK1

[camerart]

Hi,
I have an MX5 MK1 1993, and the clutch is a bit suspect, and I think the fluid may have gone low at some time.

I started to flush out the fluid: Topped up--tube in bottle, submerged in fluid--open nipple--down--bubbles--close nipple--up--repeat many times, while watching the fluid, all as usual.

This only produced bubbles, and only a small amount of fuid in the bottle.
Any ideas please?
Cheers, Camerart.

 

[Old Salt]

Are you doing this on your own? It really needs 2 if you are using a bleed tube and jar.

 

[Mottie]

Pump the pedal about a dozen times quickly or until you get a good pedal then wedge the pedal down overnight.

 

[camerart]

Are you doing this on your own? It really needs 2 if you are using a bleed tube and jar.

Hi O,
No there was a foot pusher inside and a spanner twister underneath.
C

 

[camerart]

Pump the pedal about a dozen times quickly or until you get a good pedal then wedge the pedal down overnight.

Hi M,
I assume you mean by 'a good pedal' is when there is clutch resistance.

Is this with the nipple open or closed?

EDIT: With the nipple closed, I pushed the pedal down 10 times, then left it withe a stick holding it down. I don't think it's moving the clutch mush, if at all. It was before!
C

 

[Mottie]

Yes, with the nipple closed. Some clutches are best bled like that. Pump like the clappers, hold pedal down, wait 40 secs or so, repeat until you get some resistance at pedal. Make sure you are taking your foot right off the pedal when it gets to the top. By holding it down it allows air to percolate up the pipe and back to the reservoir. If that doesn’t work, you may have a problem elsewhere.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

If all else fails, try the reverse bleeding method - pump fluid in via the bleed nipple, until it overflows at the master. No need to pump the peddle, just force fluid in via the open nipple.

 

[camerart]

Hi,
Ok, thanks.

When would a new cylinder kits be a good idea? I'm guessing that they're original 1993?
C

 

[Burnerman]

I wouldn't bother with slave cylinder seals - just fit a new cylinder complete. They aren't expensive, even from Mazda but there are some rogue pattern parts around so look for a good make!
John

 

[camerart]

I wouldn't bother with slave cylinder seals - just fit a new cylinder complete. They aren't expensive, even from Mazda but there are some rogue pattern parts around so look for a good make!
John

Hi j,
Ok, thanks.
Would you also change the master?
C

 

[Burnerman]

Only if there was fluid visible on the clutch operating rod that connects to the pedal, I think.
Personally I don't rate seal kits on an 18 year vehicle, but that's just me.
A Gunsons Easy bleed kit is great for these, using air pressure from the spare wheel.
John

 

[camerart]

Only if there was fluid visible on the clutch operating rod that connects to the pedal, I think.
Personally I don't rate seal kits on an 18 year vehicle, but that's just me.
A Gunsons Easy bleed kit is great for these, using air pressure from the spare wheel.
John

Hi j,
I also think that the cylinder wears, and if the pedal isn't always pushed right down and up every time, then a ridge will appear, so a kit will be damaged.
I've just looked for a Master/slave cylinder set from mx5part, and the pair are £176 delivered, what do you think?
C

 

[Burnerman]

I've just looked at a similar site which have the slave for around a tenner and master for 100, maybe that doesn't include VAT, delivery or whatever so the price is fine.
I guess it depends on what you want to spend and fit really - the slave is more awkward to do than the master.
I like these cars but I've only worked on J reg vehicles - that included timing belts and springs, brake discs and so on. I did find pretty extensive rust under the boot floor area though.
John

 

[camerart]

I've just looked at a similar site which have the slave for around a tenner and master for 100, maybe that doesn't include VAT, delivery or whatever so the price is fine.
I guess it depends on what you want to spend and fit really - the slave is more awkward to do than the master.
I like these cars but I've only worked on J reg vehicles - that included timing belts and springs, brake discs and so on. I did find pretty extensive rust under the boot floor area though.
John

Hi J,
I tried to get Mazda parts, but when the slave got difficult, I settled for aftermarket, £20.

This is a MK1 NA, so the master is more difficult than the slave!
On the master where there should be 2x holed there is only one, and the other side is a stud. The nut is in the footwell, and a fair bit of contortionism is needed.
Anyway, it's all been done, and I'm back with the roof down racers

Over winter, I had an umbilicall cable from the Van with solar panels, to the car battery, and water went down the cable past the seal and soaked the boot. I've yet to look under it. Apart from that, it fairly rust free for an oldy.
C