Bosch pmf 220 ce multi-tool brushes??

Joined
2 Dec 2015
Messages
442
Reaction score
18
Country
United Kingdom
Evening.
I’ve got the above multitool which I’m currently using to regrout bathroom tiles.
It’s suddenly started losing power and sort of fluctuating.
I was wondering if this could be the brushes? If so they don’t seem to be listed as a spare part.
Any ideas?
Cheers.
 
Sponsored Links
It’s possible of course - are the brushes easy to access?
However......has the note of the tool changed, any sign of excess sparking or burning smell?
John
 
Sparking is a sign of worn brushes, alongside loss of power, intermittent start/stopping.

Unfortunately, that model appears to be a non-replaceable brush machine.


If you bought it from SF they often have a good returns policy depending on when you bought it. Within 12 months they will refund/repair and, in some cases, this is 2-3 years, if you have the receipt or they can check it on their records.

If it's out of warranty then, (if you are handy and dexterous), it may be possible to replace the brushes, but it will probably be a bit fiddly.
 
without load does it vibrate properly
i had the 10.8v blue one and there was a plastic sleeve that went over the drive gear on the motor
when that failed it still worked but a massive reduction ability as the slop in the drive meant only about the last 20% off movement worked

does yours have a plastic sleeeve shown
 
Sponsored Links
Thanks all.
It’s not under warranty any more.
It has lost power under load or not.
Actually it has now totally died so not sure what to do.
Might take it apart and have a look see.
Moving the power cable does not appear to make any difference.
I’ll keep you posted…..
 
The insides look quite grotty. I assume they are the brushes either side of the cylinder?

7A97724A-61E4-49D8-8925-87AA8BCF4314.jpegDF7D47AE-CCE3-4E7D-B0A8-2BBB41BF02A9.jpeg07355952-F347-4A5A-A080-CD4C5B3DE5A4.jpeg
 
yes, they are, the lower one seems to have some spare graphite showing, the upper one it is hard to tell, might have to take it out for a look to see what state it is in.
 
when you come to clean the commutator[copper bit] do not use anything coarser than metal polish like brasso or silver polish
 
when you come to clean the commutator[copper bit] do not use anything coarser than metal polish like brasso or silver polish
Don't use metal polish! You do not want any liquids near the commutator. Liquid polish will leave residues which may cause tracking. Use fine grade GLASS paper, NOT SAND or EMERY paper! After polishing, remove dust with a soft paint brush and vacuum nozzle.

Yes the two boxes are the brushes. Bottom one looks as though it may still have a little life left in it but top one looks past the point.
If you can get them off, you may be able to find a carbon brush to cut down to size but it will be tricky re-fitting them. There is probably a small spring/tension bar behind the brush which will need to be put back in place as you assemble it.

Let us know how you get on if you decide to tackle it.
 
Don't use metal polish! You do not want any liquids near the commutator. Liquid polish will leave residues which may cause tracking. Use fine grade GLASS paper, NOT SAND or EMERY paper! After polishing, remove dust with a soft paint brush and vacuum nozzle.

Yes the two boxes are the brushes. Bottom one looks as though it may still have a little life left in it but top one looks past the point.
If you can get them off, you may be able to find a carbon brush to cut down to size but it will be tricky re-fitting them. There is probably a small spring/tension bar behind the brush which will need to be put back in place as you assemble it.

Let us know how you get on if you decide to tackle it.
we will agree to disagree then off course you polish off the residue
the point is the comments i made on his limited understanding and need off the set up i fully agree 750 emery will work with full cleaning but if the op thinks 60 grit sand paper he has will work the damage is done its all about minimum input for maximum results and direct towards them asking a further question rather than a ranting fully helpfull answer they glaze over on reading
better to preserve before damage happens and go from there :giggle:
 
Last edited:
In my limited experience, brushes spark when they wear down to the spring. The exception being my Festool tools- they have a sprung loaded slug in the brushes that pops out when the brush wears down- thereby protecting the commutator by sending power through.

Your intermittent, and then loss, of power sounds like a cable fault. Use a multimeter to check the continuity between both ends of the live, and then the neutral. BTW, I once made the mistake of using a volt pen on a lead for one of my dust extractors in the expectation of finding a break. I hadn't considered the fact that the break was in the neutral...

Another possibility is the capacitor. With some of my tools a faulty capacitor has caused the motor to turn very slowly and sometimes speed up and eventually stay in extremely slow rotation, nevertheless the motor has tried to turn (whereas your doesn't).

Tomorrow, I have to fit a new capacitor in my tumble drier. When I turn it on, the motor just buzzes, if I push the drum, the inertia will keep it rotating. I suspect that the size of the drum being so big means that, unlike the power tool, it is unable to turn.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top