Brick repair

[busydad]

Morning,

A plumber has drilled through one of my bricks to feed through a copper blow out pipe from an unvented cylinder.

However when drilling through it has taken a good chunk of the front of the brick off to a depth of 0.5 -1 inch. I have kept the pieces of brick.

Basically can anyone recommend a product to stick this back on with? No More Nails, Gorilla adhesive etc...?

Also where the copper pipe comes through the brick - should I seal round the gap? I do have some mortar mix in the shed if should use this?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Nige F]

Gorilla in a mastic tube I did one last week - not a hole I'd made - I was core drilling a vent and there was a hole from an old boiler -1/2 inch + blown. So I fashioned a piece of brick to go in it . I think that before any apprentice is let loose on an SDS they should be given a hammer and chisel and made to do it the old way- cut inside , then work out where the hole is outside (through nearest window ) and cut outside. No need to pug around your pipe.

 

[^woody^]

If the bricks are red, you could blend the repair in with some of the plumber's blood.

 

[Blagard]

I think that before any apprentice is let loose on an SDS they should be given a hammer and chisel and made to do it the old way- cut inside , then work out where the hole is outside (through nearest window ) and cut outside. No need to pug around your pipe.

That must be even before my time. But for what it is worth, I usually pop a 6mm hole through first for two reasons, the first is because I can then drill the big hole from the outside to avoid spalling the brick and the second is to make sure the hole is where I expect it to come out.

As for the OP's question if the brick bits can bit fitted back neat around the pipe consider an epoxy resin adhesive. Some brick manufacturers will make up specials (corners etc) by cutting and bonding bricks with epoxy resins. I think he will be lucky to achieve that. Sealing around the pipe when the hole is simply too big has been done with cement mortar for years in the same way as you would repoint a brick joint. But not usually necessary if neat as Nigel has said.

 

[^woody^]

We would often just point up with mortar around pipes, and either cut and strike a square to make it a feature, or form some false joints to blend it in like a brick. For the posher homes, we would add some brick dust to the surface to make it unobtrusive. Similarly, clear silicone and brick dust hides things nicely.

 

[Andy165]

cement is corrosive to copper pipes. plumber should have sleeved the pipe or wrapped it in pvc tape to form a barrier to the copper. then cement it up

 

[Blagard]

cement is corrosive to copper pipes. plumber should have sleeved the pipe or wrapped it in pvc tape to form a barrier to the copper. then cement it up

OPC is not corrosive to copper pipes. The reason for sleeving is to allow a pipe to slip through a hole dues to expansion and contraction, long lengths of tube should always be sleeved as the the sliding through mortar will actually wear away the pipe. Short lengths have been cemented in for years no problems - Also check with the concrete association who tested.

 

[^woody^]

You wound not sleeve a PRV pipe though, copper or otherwise.