Broken spring - front suspension unit.

[mointainwalker]

Hello there

Have discovered that I have the problem detailed above on my Vectra C - broken on first coil/winding. Will this cause uneven tyre-wear until replaced ? Is replacement an urgent matter ?

Second question: I have read many comments about why coil-springs break so much more than they used to. Would it be a god thing to use an angle grinder on the end of the spring to create a 45° flat and spread the load over a considerably larger area ?

Thanks lads.

 

[Jadele]

In theory it shouldn't cause the tyre to wear unevenly as the same result would be had by having extra load in the car i.e. the car is just lower. I have a vec C too and just replaced both rear springs for the same reason - easy job. Mine were snapped for months and apart from it sitting that little bit lower it wasn't noticeable. That said both mine were snapped at roughly the same bit. If only one of yours is snapped its probably going to make the car more unbalanced than would be desired.

 

[Peter.N.]

I would concur, its a job that wants doing but I wouldn't put it on my 'very urgent list'. Most modern springs seem to be rubbish, I have been driving for 60 years and can't remember ever having one break, although to be fair about 25 of those were spent in Citroen hydropnumatics.

 

[Burnerman]

I'm replacing springs all the time - either the first manufacturers replacement or more commonly, pattern items.
If the spring is stable on the strut then there are no real issues, but if the broken end displaces ( PSA drivers beware) then the end goes straight into the tyre. This generally happens when going over a bump on full lock - don't ask how I found that one!
I had the glorious occasion where a 407 spring broke, shot down the strut and took out the tyre, flexible brake hose and ABS wire. Just to cap it all it punctured the drive shaft boot too
John

 

[mointainwalker]

Thanks for the comments . Any comment on this, John ?

Would it be a god thing to use an angle grinder on the end of the spring to create a 45° flat and spread the load over a considerably larger area ?

 

[Burnerman]

If you look at the way the front strut is made, you'll see that the coil spring - when whole - is held captive by stops formed in the metal both top and bottom. This prevents the spring rotating on its own, and therefore the spring needs to have its ends square. The swivel effect required by the steering is done by the 'strut top bearing' which really needs to be inspected when the strut is out of the car and dismantled.
Spring replacement is no big deal so long as you have the correct spring compressors, and the means to stop the strut inner rotating when the top nut is undone.
Hope this helps! Personally if I spot a broken spring I get it sorted as soon as possible - nasty if it decides to savage the tyre!
John

 

[aryan57]

Great advice there from John about checking the top strut bearings while the spring is out. I did this on my Mondeo and one bearing was completely worn out. I recommend using two pairs of spring compressors for safety reasons, the cost is only around £10 a pair. New strut bearings for my Mondeo were £26 a pair and were an easy job to replace, made for much lighter steering and a more positive feel.

 

[Burnerman]

Good post - I think the Ford system is one of the better ones, PSA having a huge ball race which rusts heavily. I don't always replace them, but I do check them out.
I did notice last time I did a Fiesta spring, there was an aluminium shoe that separated the bottom of the spring from the strut but how common this is I don't know.
John

 

[aryan57]

On my Mk3 Mondeo, the bottom of the spring sits in a metal groove at the bottom of the shock absorb-er unit. Likewise the top strut bearing has a molded section that has to face outwards from the bearing housing and fits in a slot on the top mount. This prevents the top of the bearing mount from rotating under steering. movement.

The strut ball bearings are encased in an engineering plastic with balls held in position by a spacer to keep the balls in position. My spacers had broken up so the load was not being evenly distributed so allowing the bearing unit to bind. This caused very stiff and groaning steering and no castering action. It was so bad that I did wonder if the car was in need of a new steering rack. Fortunately, new strut bearings was all the car needed and it transformed the driving experience. No more creaks or clonks.

 

[Burnerman]

I found to my cost its worth replacing the pinch bolt that secures the strut to the hub.....darn thing snapped off the first time I did one.
Almighty drag drilling it out!
John