Built-in Wardrobes with Automatic Lighting

[dwarfer16]

Hi All

So I am in the process of installing built-in wardrobes and one thing I had roughly planned to do was to install lights to come on whenever a door was opened. I have ordered the lights already which are just under cabinet kitchen lights which I plan to have under each shelf but my query comes from how to wire up the switches.

At the bottom of this post...
//www.diynot.com/forums/electr...o-break-door-switches-to-1-led-driver.316697/

...there is a helpful diagram from Lectrician so I understand how to wire up the switches to enable the lights to come on.

The wardrobes have three doors (the two end doors will be on the back rail and the middle door will be on the front rail) so I was planning on putting a push-to-break switch on either of the end doors so that when the doors are at the extreme left and right the switches will hit the wall and the circuit will be broken and no lights will come up. But I'm a bit stuck on the middle door. I can't think of a way to connect this to a switch as 1) the door will not rest against a wall 2) If I added anything to the door or ceiling to hit a switch it would likely hit one of the other doors when they were opened.

So am I missing something? There must be a way that a professional would install this kind of setup so that the lights came on when any door was opened?

Thanks in advance.

 

[bernardgreen]

The switches are fitted to the door frame such that the door when closed presses in the plunger. Pressing the plunger in turns the light OFF.

Fit them close to the hinge side of the door other wise the plunger may push the door open if the catch that holds the door shut is a magnetic one.

 

[dwarfer16]

The switches are fitted to the door frame such that the door when closed presses in the plunger. Pressing the plunger in turns the light OFF.

Fit them close to the hinge side of the door other wise the plunger may push the door open if the catch that holds the door shut is a magnetic one.

Sorry I forgot to mention a key point - the doors are sliding doors with the middle door being in front of the two side doors like this:

Untitled

• dwarfer16
• 4 Feb 2015
• 1

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes, a key point.

You will then need a sliding door switch (or switches in series) like these
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FM143W.html

 

[bernardgreen]

My method would be three magnetic reed switches in series ( contact closed when door closed ) and an intelligent relay to control the 230 volt supply to the lamps when any contact was open.

Will need some thought as to the selection of the relay as it will need to supply a safe ELV to the reed switches and operate when the input goes open circuit.

 

[Taylortwocities]

My method would be three magnetic reed switches in series ( contact closed when door closed ) and an intelligent relay to control the 230 volt supply to the lamps when any contact was open.

Will need some thought as to the selection of the relay as it will need to supply a safe ELV to the reed switches and operate when the input goes open circuit.

Rather more complicated than it needs to be IMO…...

 

[bernardgreen]

Rather more complicated than it needs to be IMO…...

The complication is being able to fit a switch that is operated by the middle door yet does not stop the side doors sliding behind the middle door.

If the middle door slid behind the side doors then three simple switches could be fitted.

 

[dwarfer16]

My method would be three magnetic reed switches in series ( contact closed when door closed ) and an intelligent relay to control the 230 volt supply to the lamps when any contact was open.

Will need some thought as to the selection of the relay as it will need to supply a safe ELV to the reed switches and operate when the input goes open circuit.

Thanks for the info. I see what you mean with the magnetic switch. Something like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NC-NO-Doo...r-Switch-Alarm-Distance-10-20mm-/331152643760

This gives a distance of 10-20mm so I guess it will only work if the distance to the switch isn't too far away.

When you say 'intelligent relay' would you mind providing a link to an example? I haven't used these before so am unsure about them.

Thanks.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Thanks for the info. I see what you mean with the magnetic switch. Something like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NC-NO-Doo...r-Switch-Alarm-Distance-10-20mm-/331152643760

This gives a distance of 10-20mm so I guess it will only work if the distance to the switch isn't too far away.

Those switches are only OK up to 100v, so you would have to engineer an ELV supply for the switches, these could operate an ELV relay that would turn on the light. So, as i mentioned above, not such a simple solution…..

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Those switches are only OK up to 100v

They say that.

I wouldn't trust them.

Item location:
Shenzhen, China

 

[ban-all-sheds]

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=(230v+OR+240v+OR+250v)+magnetic+reed+switch

 

[dwarfer16]

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=(230v+OR+240v+OR+250v)+magnetic+reed+switch

Thanks. So if I got one that is good up to 240V then I won't need to get any kind of ELV relay unit? Something like this:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/reed-switches/2897799/

That makes it a lot easier. I guess the only thing this would depend on now is whether the magnet can be far enough away that it doesn't get in the way of the other two doors.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You'd still need a relay, or some kind of logic, with that switch because it's Normally Open, i.e. the magnet will close the contacts. So when your doors are closed the switch will complete the circuit, and when you open them it will break it.

Easier to get NC ones and connect them in parallel.

500mA would be enough for LED or fluorescent lighting.

 

[Taylortwocities]

You'd still need a relay, or some kind of logic, with that switch because it's Normally Open, i.e. the magnet will close the contacts.

Really? The link shows a changeover contact.

The OP would need to provide a max 2amp fuse though, to protect the contacts in the event of a fizz bang.

 

[stillp]

Really? The link shows a changeover contact.

The OP would need to provide a max 2amp fuse though, to protect the contacts in the event of a fizz bang.

Really? It looks like NO to me. Good point about the fuse, reed switches do not like any overcurrent.