Bulkhead lamp for modern bulbs?

[ericmark]

Did not really consider the lamp would not take modern bulbs. Had to remove bulb holder and bracket, drill new holes in the bracket, and replace reversed to gain enough room to fit the longer bulb we get today, and the whole of the light emitting part of the bulb still in just one half of the fitting.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Is there not a shorter bulb you could fit?

 

[Scally-Ho]

I've never had any problems retrofitting LED as a replacement for incandescent.

Pardon our interruption...

 

[AndyPRK]

they do some LED ES 100W equ. ones that are bigger.

 

[ericmark]

I am sure you can get shorter bulbs, but when a bulb fails, you want to put in what is to hand, not have to go out special to get a bulb, so making it, so longer bulbs will fit, is easy before it has been put up. Pain in the neck, latter.

Which way up should it go, I have mounted as second one, with bulb holder at the top. Ready for next BBQ, but next question is how to switch it? At moment on plug in timer, so smart bulb, smart relay, smart light switch? Yes there are some high output bulbs but don't think they are needed, if I really want a lot of light I still have a metal halide 70 watt, and sunglasses.

But in the main that light is to see way up after parking the car, or clearing up at the end of a BBQ. So a 22 watt CFL bulb is ample. Will likely change for LED but did not have a BA22d in stock.

 

[JohnW2]

... but next question is how to switch it? At moment on plug in timer, so smart bulb, smart relay, smart light switch?

It would seem to be a reflection on our rather strange times to see it suggested that there is a need to consider how one switches a light on and off

 

[ericmark]

I did take a smart bulb down to the shed to see if it worked, it did. I am also watching to see how well it does light the area, not really dark enough yet, ⁣but seems OK. The shed in the foreground has stopped light from the corners of the house lighting the drive, and there is no street lighting.

I have 8 other outside lights around the house, some are no longer needed where others are now lighting the area better. But it does seem our lights are still designed for tungsten bulbs, I tried with this one to reflect the light back down, I later reversed the tin foil so not so visible. With some 4 to 6 foot drops around the house, when we have visitors I want it lit well enough so no one falls into the drops.

PIR control was a failure, lights were switching on/off all night. Anyway, may need to move the umbrella, but otherwise seems OK as it gets darker. Tonight on a timer, but really want some other method of control.

 

[FrodoOne]

the whole of the light emitting part of the bulb still in just one half of the fitting.

Start using "Filament LED" "bulbs".

More efficient, also.

 

[AndyPRK]

Exactly this. Filament lamps put the light out sideways, and not up/down.

Old LED lamps put the light out 240°
Filaments put the light out 330°

But select on a case by case basis. Sometimes you want the light focused up/down (but not in this case)

There is also another variant, inbetween. 330° but not filament. (basically no plastic white cone at the bottom to block light)

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

But in the main that light is to see way up after parking the car, or clearing up at the end of a BBQ. So a 22 watt CFL bulb is ample. Will likely change for LED but did not have a BA22d in stock.

My own experience of LED's, in enclosed fittings, suggests that LED's will not survive for very long, due to poor ability to dissipate the tiny amount of waste heat - unless you modify the enclosure...

I had two 8w LED's fail, in relatively quick succession, in an outdoor lantern style fitting, with no ventilation. When installing the third replacement LED, I decided to add just a small amount of ventilation, by spacing the base panel from the upper part with washers, on the screws. The third LED lamp has since survived for several years, with it on from dusk, to 11pm.

 

[ericmark]

I have not used the filament LED, mainly as seen them in Pubs, and could not read the menu. Maybe a special decorative type, but one does need something to defuse the light, a pearl bulb was always better as to a clear glass bulb, never worked out why they were banned.

Looking at this

it seems I can get away with a lower wattage, and since the base of the bulb is at the top. Having a bulb with a plate of LED's inside will not really matter in this case. I have tried a bulb in a table light at the location, and it could connect to the zigbee hub, I have not tried as yet a socket adaptor, and not really an option to try a switch or relay, as ones I have are not portable, the socket adaptor is more expensive at £10, but will allow me to use the stock of CFL I have in stock, but the smart bulbs at £5 have a screw E27 base, the BA22d base versions are more expensive, the other option is an E27 to SES (E14) converter, as I have some SES smart bulbs in stock, were going cheap in PoundLand.

At the moment, just plugged in while I make up my mind, so looking at the filament type yes 470 lumens at 3.4 watt, so very economical, but is 470 lumens enough? The 22 watt CFL rated around 1300 lumens, the smart bulb considered is 806 lumens, 8.7 watt and costs £8, but I really don't need colour changing or dimming, but may want dusk setting, not sure if there is a dusk setting with socket adaptor. But first job is testing if it works at that distance.

 

[AndyPRK]

The only filament LED I use are pearl
60W or 100W eqv.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Aside from the lantern, lit from dusk until 11pm, on the drive, plus remotely controlled flood lights in the eaves of the house, and a PIR LED, lighting the very dark path up to the back garden, what I found was....

My garage and workshop, have two small doors, with keypad entries. You need enough local light, to be able to press the correct buttons, to get in. We happened to have a two pack of solar pir lights, similar to (but not the same) these - https://www.screwfix.com/p/luceco-prysm-outdoor-led-solar-with-pir-sensor-white-300lm/667cl

I've never been impressed with solar lights, particularly not pir versions, but these two work surprisingly well. They pick me up on the approach, and give a good, bright, spread of light, up, down, left and right. More than enough to see what I am doing, to press the buttons to unlock.

 

[BS3036]

a pearl bulb was always better as to a clear glass bulb, never worked out why they were banned.

Probably, only Daily Mail or Telegraph readers believe this. In fact...

What happened to pearl lamps?

• Energy Efficiency Standards: Starting in September 2009, non-clear (pearl/frosted) incandescent lamps were required to meet a minimum A-class energy rating, which most couldn't.
  

• Phase-Out: This effectively phased out the sale of inefficient non-clear incandescent lamps over time, with the process completing in 2012.
  
  
• Alternatives: Consumers were encouraged to switch to more energy-efficient alternatives.
  

In summary, the EU didn't ban all pearl lamps, but rather the inefficient, high-wattage, and non-transparent incandescent lamps were phased out by making them subject to new, stricter energy efficiency requirements

 

[ericmark]

Well I have taken the TP-Link P110 socket adaptor from my bedroom fan, and tried it in the shed, it works OK,

only just, but it works, the option is there for Sunrise and Sunset, so think all I need to do is tidy up the cable. I will give it a few days to see how it goes.