Buying a new mountain bike

[AndrewSchofield]

Hi guys,

I'm in the market for a new mountain bike. I've not ridden a bike for at least 14years and that bike my parents bought for me, second hand and probably cost about £50. I've been to a big bike shop today and its fair to say that "things have moved on a bit".

I'm going to be using the bike probably 60% on off road trails (ie. on gravel/loose stone but reasonably flat), 30% on tarmac roads (including plenty of hills) and 10% on rough tracks. I'm probably going to using the bike once or twice a week at most and for distances no more than 20miles (probably a lot less than that initially) - its more riding for pleasure than looking to move towards proffesional cycling.

I'm looking at a bike with front suspension but they come with and without lock-out and some with remote lock-out. Will this make a real difference - how much easier is it on flat roads with the suspension locked-out?

Cable or hydrulic brakes - is this important?

Gears - i'm going for as many as possible, and shimano still seem to be most popular - but do the different models/styles really make that much difference?

Frame weight - i've already been told that the difference in frame weight wont make that much difference to pleasure cyclists - save for when it comes to lifting it on to the top of your car etc...

There seems to be a huge range in prices from around £150 to £3000+ and a lot inbetween and I've not got an unlimited fund, but its knowing whether an extra £100 is worth it for the increased spec, or whether how and where i'm using the bike, I wont really notice the difference?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

 

[joe-90]

The weight issue makes a massive difference in my opinion. Keep it simple and keep it light.

 

[AndrewSchofield]

The weight issue makes a massive difference in my opinion. Keep it simple and keep it light.

But if I weigh 13stone, will I be able to tell the difference between a bike that weighs 5kgs less? It seems inconsequential to me, but then, riding up hills I guess every kilo lighter will be better!?

Think I agree with keeping it simple - the bike isn't going to get over-used or any serious off-road hammer while its in my ownership, so the more kit its got on it, the more their is to maintain and replace in the long term...

 

[thatbloke]

What will you be doing with it?
If it is just general riding I wouldn't go too high on spec. Weight can be an issue and the lighter the better but again I wouldn't go overboard.
An aluminium frame is a good place to start and I can recommend voodoo bikes , I own a Voodoo Bantu and love it, great bike.
Saying that I haven't used in for well over a year now.

 

[nickjb]

If you want abike that is actually nice to ride and wont fall apart as soon as it looks a rock then you need to spend at least £500. You should get something from Decathlon or a Boardman for that sort of money (both offer excellent value for money and regularly get top reviews). An extra couple of hundred quid will get you a reasonable upgrade if you have the cash. Over £1k and the differences get less and less.

On the subject of lock-out, its a bit of a persoanl thing but it will help if you are doing a lot of road riding. That said I'd rather have better forks without lock-out that cheap forks with it.

 

[AndrewSchofield]

I'm looking at Giant, Specialized or Trek bikes (although i'm not decided so that doesn't mean I wont look at other makes - they're just ones i've looked at today) Will have a look at those makes.

Its just going to be general riding mainly, might use it to cycle to work, but that'll only be once a week at most. Otherwise it'll riding out in the evening and at weekends for pleasure - no serious off-roading or time trials!

 

[snico]

Unless you are riding down a rocky track at 30mph+ you wont need hydraulic brakes.

I use to ride for Cheshire when I was younger. Not for a very long time now and the bikes have come along way over the last 15 years.

Big tip though, buy last years model or the previous years. Mountain bikes and ATB's price wise change over the seasons.

Also try to avoid buying online unless you have tried the bike you will buy.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If you doing both road and off road, you really need hybrid.
(Or you could consider two sets of wheels with tyres on for each type of terran)
Front wheel suss, is great for the rougher stuff, but it is not very good for the flat, but you can get lock outs.
Cables via disc, totally your choice, if your doing extreme mountain biking and need really quick stopping times, disc brakes are what you want, other than that nothing wrong with the cables.
If your looking for a cheapy, try your local cash converters before you buy anything new, sometimes you can get really lucky and always knock the price down if you find something you like.
If you are looking for a nice bike at a reasonable price, my personally choice would be a scotts sportster P4. they are a good quality bike for the money.
and a lot better than some of the higher end stuff.

 

[Daz66]

I have had four Specialized Rockhoppers (three got nicked!!!) any absolutely love them, they are hardtails and the slightly above base model costing £600 and come with disc brakes, shimano quickshifters and hydraulic operated brakes.

The suspension locks out easily for on road and switches of quickly when off road and seems to work well for my weight of 15 stone.

My first one was brought in 2002 and when it was nicked and replaced 3yrs ago I couldn't beleive how light the new one was!!!

I would suggest you set your budget at as much as you can afford then add another £100, but still hold another £100 back for extra bits like pump, bottles, saddlebags, tools and lights etc.

I really rate the specialized and even the other half has one, she did stop me buying my son one though as there over £220 and she doesn't trust the school gate!!

 

[wreckedit]

I have nothing to add to what has already been said about shop bought bikes because I find I can get all I want from the local dump or boot sale. So, I will advise you about your riding aspirations. The distances per week and the terrain you will be riding on for "pleasure" will leave you on most occasions with a very sore a..rs. So, before starting out slap a load of anti-inflammatory jell or cream on your bum saves doing it when you get back.

 

[r.bartlett]

I have had four Specialized Rockhoppers (three got nicked!!!) any absolutely love them, they are hardtails and the slightly above base model costing £600 and come with disc brakes, shimano quickshifters and hydraulic operated brakes.

The suspension locks out easily for on road and switches of quickly when off road and seems to work well for my weight of 15 stone.

My first one was brought in 2002 and when it was nicked and replaced 3yrs ago I couldn't beleive how light the new one was!!!

I would suggest you set your budget at as much as you can afford then add another £100, but still hold another £100 back for extra bits like pump, bottles, saddlebags, tools and lights etc.

I really rate the specialized and even the other half has one, she did stop me buying my son one though as there over £220 and she doesn't trust the school gate!!

I had my Rockhopper nicked too :-/

I took the insurance money and bought a Marin East Peak as a replacement

 

[AndrewSchofield]

Hi guys, thanks for the advice.

I'm not bothered about hydraulic brakes myself, but that said, of the bikes I looked at, it seems you don't have to spend too much before hydraulic brakes are pretty much a standard spec.

By the sound of it, I should be making sure i've got front suspension that has a lock-out facility for when i'm not on the rough - i've never ridden a bike with suspension of any kind so not sure what difference the suspension makes to flat road cycling?

 

[Stivino]

I've got one of these for lying in my shed. It's not getting used so, I was thinking of putting it up for sale at half that price.
http://www.adverts.ie/bikes/giant-yukon-aluxx-6000-series-xc/312784

 

[petit_pablo]

With the hydraulic brake if something breaks like a seal you need the correct kit to repair, refill, bleed etc. For ease of maintenance stick with a cable operated brake.

Front suspension on road bobs around a bit, this can sap your energy over the course of a ride. if you caan get a front sus that you can lock out i would get it.

Kona usually have a good range of bikes, specialised are good too. Im not a fan of the giants or treks. Ive found giants to be a touch over built, read heavy! The treks are a bit something and nothing.

Good independat bike shops should allow you to try a range of bikes before you buy and advise you on frame sizes, suspension preload, bike setup.

As said further up, £500 is a good starting price for an entry level bike.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

i've never ridden a bike with suspension of any kind so not sure what difference the suspension makes to flat road cycling?

Dual front and back wheel suspension are good for really rough terrain will make the ride much smoother but does add weight to the bike, but saying that, unless you are competing, it won't make that much difference something that you will get used to.
As far as the lockout for front wheels and the advantages of it.
It's little hard to explain something you need to experience to really understand. When your on the flat/road the suspension can feel a bit springy and even some times can jar a little when you hit a minor bump(sounds daft, but it happens) this can ruin the smooth run of cycling on a road. Defo get a lockout, again rear wheel suspension for a hybrid is not needed, much better with a hardtail gives you a much more efficient ride.
Also I would recommend you invest in a decent helmet, even gloves for the cold days, waterproof cycling jacket and if you are going in areas of rough terrain, canal tow path, woody/forest areas get some goggles the insects can be quite annoying and get in the eyes as well as the mud etc....
Mud guards for the wheels will also save on the washing bill.