Can I wire 13a oven to a plug?

[Fordy81]

I've got a new oven that has come without a plug. It's energy consumption is 0.79kwh.

The wiring I currently have is 6mm (I think) on it's own circuit. This goes into a fused switch spur. Then from here his 2.5mm t&e to behind the old oven to an unswitched socket.

Am I ok to wire a plug on to the new oven and plug this in to the existing socket?

The new hob will be a gas replacement.

Thanks very much

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

What do the manufacturers instruction state, normally when plug is not factory fitted the appliance requires hard wiring, you could exchange the socket for a fused connection unit and hardwire it that way, providing the load demand allows. Do you have the manufacturers information?

 

[Fordy81]

What do the manufacturers instruction state, normally when plug is not factory fitted the appliance requires hard wiring, you could exchange the socket for a fused connection unit and hardwire it that way, providing the load demand allows. Do you have the manufacturers information?

Ok, so could I have an fcu behind the oven, as well as one above the worktop?

This is what the manual says. Apologies for the length.


Ovens equipped with a three-pole power supply cable are designed to operate with alternating current at the voltage and frequency indicated on the data plate located on the appliance.

Connecting the supply to the mains:

Install a standardised plug corresponding to the load indicated on the data plate. The appliance must be directly connected to the mains using an omnipolar switch with a minimum contact opening of 3mm installed between the appliance and the mains. The switch must be suitable for the charge indicated and must comply with current electrical regulations (the earthing wire must not be interrupted by the switch). The supply cable must be positioned so that it does not come into contact with temperatures higher than 50degreesC at any point (the back panel of the oven, for example).

The data plate says: voltage 220-240v - 50hz
Maximum power absorbed 2800W

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Sounds a bit contradictory
a standardised plug and directly connected to mains?
I think this is poor translation of a foreign document.
If you already have a 13A Switched FCU, then exchanging the socket for an outlet plate for the oven's flex, would be what I would do.
Others may argue that a 13A plug would also be acceptable.

 

[JohnW2]

.... Install a standardised plug corresponding to the load indicated on the data plate. The appliance must be directly connected to the mains using an omnipolar switch with a minimum contact opening of 3mm installed between the appliance and the mains. ....

These instructions seem to have been written by someone whose native language was not English - what make is the oven? At first sight, those two sentences above would appear to be incompatible - although the language is such that it's difficult to be sure!

A 2800W oven would not uncommonly be connected via a standard 13A plug and socket (or, alternatively, a 13A FCU)

Kind Regards, John

 

[Fordy81]

Sounds a bit contradictory
a standardised plug and directly connected to mains?
I think this is poor translation of a foreign document.
If you already have a 13A Switched FCU, then exchanging the socket for an outlet plate for the oven's flex, would be what I would do.
Others may argue that a 13A plug would also be acceptable.

It's an Indesit and the English instructions are way back in the booklet. lol

Ok, above the counter I have a 45A fcu. Do I need to change this to a 13A? And then when you say an outlet plate for the oven's flex, do you mean another fcu, behind the oven? Sorry if it seems obvious.

 

[Fordy81]

.... Install a standardised plug corresponding to the load indicated on the data plate. The appliance must be directly connected to the mains using an omnipolar switch with a minimum contact opening of 3mm installed between the appliance and the mains. ....

These instructions seem to have been written by someone whose native language was not English - what make is the oven? At first sight, those two sentences above would appear to be incompatible - although the language is such that it's difficult to be sure!

A 2800W oven would not uncommonly be connected via a standard 13A plug and socket (or, alternatively, a 13A FCU)

Kind Regards, John

I did double check to make sure it wasn't me typing something wrong. lol

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Ok, above the counter I have a 45A fcu. Do I need to change this to a 13A?

You don't have a 45A FCU, you have a 45A cooker isolation switch, these are not fused,just rated up to a maximum of 45A loading, so you could change this to a 13A FCU or leave it and change the the socket to an 13A FCU

And then when you say an outlet plate for the oven's flex, do you mean another fcu, behind the oven? Sorry if it seems obvious.

No an outlet plate is different to an FCU, but as you do not have a an above worktop FCU, swapping the socket for a 13A FCU would be my preferred method and leaving the 45A isolation switch as it is.

 

[Fordy81]

Ok, above the counter I have a 45A fcu. Do I need to change this to a 13A?

You don't have a 45A FCU, you have a 45A cooker isolation switch, these are not fused,just rated up to a maximum of 45A loading, so you could change this to a 13A FCU or leave it and change the the socket to an 13A FCU

And then when you say an outlet plate for the oven's flex, do you mean another fcu, behind the oven? Sorry if it seems obvious.

No an outlet plate is different to an FCU, but as you do not have a an above worktop FCU, swapping the socket for a 13A FCU would be my preferred method and leaving the 45A isolation switch as it is.

That's what I meant.

Ok excellent. So that way it would be hardwired. Thanks very much for your help. Just one more question.

The 13A fcu to replace the socket, should I get a switched, or unswitched one?

 

[JohnW2]

deleted (didn't read properly!)

 

[Fordy81]

deleted (didn't read properly!)

It's a C32 John

Oh, you changed it. lol

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The 13A fcu to replace the socket, should I get a switched, or unswitched one?

I would install unswited FCU, you have above worktop isolation with 45A isolator, so no need for switch below counter. Also switch can be knocked about or even accidently turned off when putting the appliance in, so best avoided.

 

[JohnW2]

It's a C32 John. Oh, you changed it. lol

Thanks. As you have observed, when my mind woke up, I realised that the question is not actually relevant (provided you're going to have a 13A FCU).

Kind Regards, John

 

[JBR]

.... Install a standardised plug corresponding to the load indicated on the data plate. The appliance must be directly connected to the mains using an omnipolar switch with a minimum contact opening of 3mm installed between the appliance and the mains. ....

These instructions seem to have been written by someone whose native language was not English - what make is the oven? At first sight, those two sentences above would appear to be incompatible - although the language is such that it's difficult to be sure!

A 2800W oven would not uncommonly be connected via a standard 13A plug and socket (or, alternatively, a 13A FCU)

Kind Regards, John

That's what I did. A different oven, but similar rating, so I used a 13A plug.

Isn't it normal practice to use a 13A plug for a 3kW electric fire? I've done that before now.

 

[JohnW2]

That's what I did. A different oven, but similar rating, so I used a 13A plug. .... Isn't it normal practice to use a 13A plug for a 3kW electric fire? I've done that before now.

Many ≤3kW ovens and ≤3kW electric heaters do, indeed, come with fitted 13A plugs and get used as such. Although it is 'OK' (everything being used within its ratings), I personally am more comfortable having 'fixed wiring', rather than a plug/socket, for loads that high.

One of the theoretical issues is that it is said that the 'wiping' of pins and contacts of 13A plugs/sockets when the plug is inserted or removed which helps to keep the electrical contact surfaces 'tarnish free' (hence improving electrical contact). A plug on an oven may well not be pulled out of the socket for literally years.

Kind Regards, John