tried to save money without understanding the principlies of the job
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wish i could do any old job without traing. roll:
Why are you posting here if you don't want novices to attempt work on their heating systems? In case you hadn't noticed, the purpose of the site is to assist people doing DIY work.
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i flushed it as some of the rads were not getting hot and they had been bled and all air removed.
The sludge hopefully went back into the machine and then out the dump valve at the end, but i have no way of knowing for sure other than what i saw going doing the sink which looks like charcoal and then rust.
OK. Given that you removed sludge and rust from the system, it appears to have needed flushing.
And yes i tried to save money as i could not afford £400 to get someone to do it and having read about it it sounded straight forward, obviously not as i have found, but we live and learn.
Nothing wrong with that - that's what this site is for.
However, flushing is never a guaranteed way of removing everything, and can loosen deposits that then remain in the system causing problems.
For example, a more common way of flushing is to remove the pump, so it's possible that there is some muck partially blocking one of the pump ports. There might be enough flow for heating the cylinder, but not enough to reach distant radiators.
If it were mine I'd drain again (carefully watching the quality of what comes out), then remove the pump and pump valves and check that all is clear.
If you have TRVs then you also face the risk of small fragments of rust blocking the TRV inlet port (i.e. port on the pipework side), as these get very small as the TRV is closing. Then you can get a dam of material built up that stops the flow to the radiator even when the valve is open.
A few drain downs, rinses and refills won't do any harm. Another very good thing to do in your circumstances is to fit a Magnaclean. Preferably a TwinTech. This is the best way of addressing the long-term need to catch things that are still circulating around your system.