CH steel pipe corrosion issues.

[fairplay]

My cousin's bungalow built in the sixties but had central heating changed and an upstairs extension fitted (when I believe there were copper shortages 1970's?) which has steel pipes for the main water feed and all of the central heating pipes. These have corroded over the years and some were repaired with copper fittings. Clearly this was bad practice and sets up a galvanic cell and leaks are springing up all over the place due to the corrosion. A fairly primitive built with floorboards on joists with soil beneath so in summer leaks can and do drain away but has led to damp in the past. Clearly the best solution is to replace the whole pipework but he may be moving soon so may just want to replace joints. One such joint was repaired by a local plumber recently but he used a coupling that is only rated to 40C so not ideal.
So the question is what are the best modern fittings to make joints or replace elbows etc? Presumably either plastic, brass or steel to steel although I'm not sure about the latter having any longevity.

 

[jj4091]

He might as well do it properly now because he will have to declare it as a known problem when he comes to sell and that may well put off buyers.

 

[dilalio]

So, other than a Repipe, what else could the plumber have done?

Only thing you can use on installed steel are male or female irons to act as transition couplings and then plastic or copper.

 

[polesapart]

If it's Truwell pipe from the 70's the only good option is to replace the lot.

 

[fixitflav]

So, other than a Repipe, what else could the plumber have done?

Only thing you can use on installed steel are male or female irons to act as transition couplings and then plastic or copper.

Am I missing something here? Heating systems typically have several different materials - steel rads, copper pipework, aluminium, cast iron or stainless steel boiler, plastic. With inhibitor kept up to scratch it works OK. What's the problem with some steel pipework?

 

[denso13]

With inhibitor kept up to scratch it works OK. What's the problem with some steel pipework?

Sounds like there was no inhibitor in it.

 

[fixitflav]

Sounds like there was no inhibitor in it.

It's much easier to add some than replace all the pipes!

 

[denso13]

Not if "leaks are springing up all over the place" and "they have corroded over the years".

 

[fixitflav]

Not if "leaks are springing up all over the place" and "they have corroded over the years".

OK, would have been better to have added it earlier. But I still don't see what's different about this system, incorporates usual materials. It might still be best to add inhibitor and deal with the leaks. Depends where the leaks are. If it's a rad it probably needs replacing. I doubt steel pipe would have corroded through. Maybe replace the "leaking joints" (whatever that means) with something fit for the job.

 

[denso13]

But I still don't see what's different about this system, incorporates usual materials.

Well, yes, I don't think anyone has suggested differently. Two options, replace all of the joints/leaks or bite the bullet and do it propely.

 

[fixitflav]

Well, yes, I don't think anyone has suggested differently. Two options, replace all of the joints/leaks or bite the bullet and do it propely.

OK

 

[dilalio]

Well, yes, I don't think anyone has suggested differently. Two options, replace all of the joints/leaks or bite the bullet and do it propely.

Exactly.
Had the conversation hundreds of times.
Customer's decision ultimately... I advise but it's up to them to take my advice!

 

[dilalio]

It's much easier to add some than replace all the pipes!

When barrel goes, it goes!
Bit late for prevention is my remote opinion.

 

[Razor900]

I think most of you have misread this one.

It doesn't sound like barrel. From the description I'd say its probably Truwell

 

[dilalio]

I think most of you have misread this one.

It doesn't sound like barrel. From the description I'd say its probably Truwell

Don't think I've ever locked horns with it!