I've got the original pine floorboards in my Victorian house. I'd like to keep the original floor but change the orientation by 90 degrees. One option would be to lay 12mm ply on top of the joists and then relay my floorboards on top. The downside is that the floor level would be raised by 12mm and then I would have to re-install the scirting boards . The other option would be to install noggins between the existing joists or install the 12mm ply between the joist so its all flush. What wold you suggest?
Change orientation of bloorboards
- Thread starter Yukster
- Start date
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If you used noggins, why would you also need the ply?
Hi . I haven't installed the noggins yet. My question is whether to use noggins or ply between the floorboards?
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Noggins, and plenty of them really! I'd forget about the ply altogether.
John
John
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Thanks. How far apart should I space the noggings? Do I need to use joist hangers for them? Is there a better way?Noggins, and plenty of them really! I'd forget about the ply altogether.
John
Ideally, keep the noggin spacing the same pitch as the existing joists for maximum support I guess.....
Joist hangers would be ok so long as the noggin tops are level with the joists.
Personally I'd like to notch the noggins in, but there's a fair bit of work involved there.
Is it worth going to all this trouble?
John
Joist hangers would be ok so long as the noggin tops are level with the joists.
Personally I'd like to notch the noggins in, but there's a fair bit of work involved there.
Is it worth going to all this trouble?
John
ok my thoughts
if the floor is well engineered with plenty off redundancy then with noggins it will be fine
if its only just up to spec or a bit under engineered then it may be a bit springy as the load wont be spread over the joists by the flooring but by the noggins which by there nature will allow individual joist to sag till any slack between joist and noggin is taken up
just a thought
if the floor is well engineered with plenty off redundancy then with noggins it will be fine
if its only just up to spec or a bit under engineered then it may be a bit springy as the load wont be spread over the joists by the flooring but by the noggins which by there nature will allow individual joist to sag till any slack between joist and noggin is taken up
just a thought
What tool would you use to notch the noggins in?Ideally, keep the noggin spacing the same pitch as the existing joists for maximum support I guess.....
Joist hangers would be ok so long as the noggin tops are level with the joists.
Personally I'd like to notch the noggins in, but there's a fair bit of work involved there.
Is it worth going to all this trouble?
John
How could i check if the joist are engineered with sufficient redundancy?
What tool would you use to notch the noggins in?Ideally, keep the noggin spacing the same pitch as the existing joists for maximum support I guess.....
Joist hangers would be ok so long as the noggin tops are level with the joists.
Personally I'd like to notch the noggins in, but there's a fair bit of work involved there.
Is it worth going to all this trouble?
John
Have a look at pictures of halving joints - but there's no need to halve.....only a small amount of notching is needed but a common size is 1/3rd. The noggins can be staggered to get screws in if you want to.
A tenon saw and broad blade chisel are the tools needed.
John
A couple of things:
Why do you want to change the "orientation"?
Are you going to DIY lift the boards? Could be a bigger job than you figured. Could be lots of splintered and split Victorian boards - the old guys used cut nails in flooring.
Stand at the centre of the floor and move your weight up and down in a rhythmic manner and see if the floor begins to flex or creak.
Why do you want to change the "orientation"?
Are you going to DIY lift the boards? Could be a bigger job than you figured. Could be lots of splintered and split Victorian boards - the old guys used cut nails in flooring.
Stand at the centre of the floor and move your weight up and down in a rhythmic manner and see if the floor begins to flex or creak.
The floorboards go from party wall to party wall. I want them turned 90 degrees to go from from to back of my house. That increases the sense of space
I lifted a few when laying network cable. I managed it all right
I tired that now and there is no noticeable give of creaking
There's a lot of graft involved here but if that's what you want to do then bash on. Plenty of noggins means no sag!
If this is upstairs, be aware that the ceiling may crack due to the hammering or whatever.
John
If this is upstairs, be aware that the ceiling may crack due to the hammering or whatever.
John
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