Changing a dimmer switch

[KMcM]

I am trying to change a dimmer switch which an electrician once installed and just didnt work. I have a red wire which Im wiring into the squiggly line, brown in L1 and green/yellow into the side bit, but it doesnt seem to work. Can anyone tell me if Im doing this correctly as my electrician doesnt seem to want to know? Thanks Kirsty

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Are you sure the dimmer switch works?

You say it never has, and it sounds like it's connected OK.

If you put an ordinary switch there does the light work?

If you put the dimmer where an existing working switch is does it work?

 

[KMcM]

Hi yes I have replaced switch and even swapped it with another so def works

 

[securespark]

Brown and red is an odd combo. Piccy?

 

[KMcM]

Sorry not au fait with electrics, but the switch in the kitchen has the same set up and I replaced that switch too (MK) originally had Argos, what a nightmare they were....oh I guess I will have to get another electrician out. Thank you for your help.

 

[WabbitPoo]

dont give up so quickly

there are plenty on here willing to help, if you give them the information they need.....

 

[Scoter1066]

How many lights does this switch work when functioning correctly?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Hi yes I have replaced switch and even swapped it with another so def works

So the dimmer works everywhere except at this particular location.

And at this particular location an ordinary switch works.

What sort of bulb(s) are in the light(s)?

 

[riveralt]

Hi yes I have replaced switch and even swapped it with another so def works

Does this mean you got the dimmer to work on another lighting circuit (proving the dimmer works) or that you used a new normal switch on this circuit and it worked (proving the circuit works).

If you have a multi-meter - set it to low ohms. Remove the dimmer from the circuit and turn it on - place the one of the probes in the wavey line terminal and the other in L1 - if the dimmer has been switched on and its working you should get a continuity reading in ohms. If you switch the dimmer off and do the same test you should get an open circuit.

Picking up on BAS's point how much wattage is on the circuit - dimmers generally require min of 60w to work and may not work with low energy lights.

 

[securespark]

As I suggested, Kirsty, pictures would help.

Of the dimmer, the wiring at the switch position and the type of fitting including lamps it is fitted with.

I can only assume from what you've said that if the light fitting works when you fit a normal switch and the dimmer works elsewhere, then the fitting (or its lamps) and the dimmer are incompatible.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If you have a multi-meter - set it to low ohms. Remove the dimmer from the circuit and turn it on - place the one of the probes in the wavey line terminal and the other in L1 - if the dimmer has been switched on and its working you should get a continuity reading in ohms.

No - dimmers are not simple rheostats. They switch on and off at 100Hz - measuring resistance across the terminals of an unpowered dimmer will tell you nothing.