since you know so little may i suggest that you put a plug on the lights, and also an in line dimmer switch, thi8s is easier, safer and you can alwys unplug the lights and move them else where
Right, the sockets are normally powered under a 30amp fuse. Lighting circuits are powered normally by a 5amp fuse. We can see that if we connect the lighting directly to the sockets we are potentially allowing 30amps to flow into the lighting circuit. Lighting cable is smaller that socket cable, as lighting is 1.0mm and socket is 2.5mm. So we therefore reduce the maximum current (amps) allowed onto that circuit.
If we do this, we can fit a 13amp plug (aka plug..) with a 3 / 5 amp fuse plugged into a socket, therefore allowing the maximum current into the circuit being 5amps. (Reducing 30amps - 5amps)
Another option is to place a unswitched fuse unit next to the socket, and run 1.0mm Twin & Earth (T&E) cable from this. Putting a 5amp fuse in the fuse unit reducing the current down to a maximum of 5amp again. This fuse unit can be fitted to a pattress (plastic back) or into a metal box sunk into the wall. (Picture of the Un-Sw Fuse Unit - http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...G_Index/Spurs_13_Amp_Un_Switched_3/index.html) Remeber to use 2.5mm cable from the socket too the fused unit, as this side is still the sockets side...which is 30amps..only from the fused spur output side is reduced down to the fuse size...
The last option could be to run a 1.0mm from the fuse board (consumer unit) to the lights...via the switches you require.
I hope this helps and give you a general idea on why we dont just connect a socket circuit to the lighting circuit. This is the same with other circuits around the house. If in doubt, ask for some more advice, we are here to help.
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