Changing lamp plug for 5A round 3 pin socket in lighting circuit

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Hello all, scouring the internet for answers, but just can't seem to find anything! Imagine it's very simple, but any info would be appreciated.

I did a refurb of my flat a couple of years ago, including full re-wire. I'd requested a couple of 5A round pin sockets so I could connect lamps directly to the lighting circuit and dim them from the main switches. If relevant, everything is LED.

Just bought a table lamp that comes with a "normal" plug. Trying to figure out which of the following options is safe/doable/best)

1. Remove 13A plug and wire in a 5A unfused 3 round pin plug.

2. Use an adapter like the below. Advantage is that if at a later date I wanted to move lamp and plug into a normal socket, I still have the normal plug and wouldn't need to change back. Would I have to change the plug fuse for a 5A one? Remove the fuse altogether? Neither, and just plug and play?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TEC-UK-Ada...a+adaptor&qid=1578392948&s=electronics&sr=1-3
 
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Thanks, Sureitsoff. Bearing in mind I have no electrical knowledge, but everything I've read suggests there's no need for a fuse if I'm plugging directly into the lighting circuit?

By coincidence, I'd already looked at that screwfix plug. Despite it being labelled as fused, it is not.
 
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if the screwfix one is not fused complain to screwfix about misleading you. it is good practice to put a fuse in a circuit ie plug to lamp. the fuse is there to protect the cable
 
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Thank you. I was just under the impression that a lighting circuit would already be protected by a 5A or 6A fuse.

For my own understanding, any reason why Option 2 wouldn't work?
 
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I like the adaptor method, as you say you can then still use lamp in other outlets, however the adaptor also means you can plug other 13A stuff into the lighting outlet.

Personally I don't want standard and table lamps powered from lighting supply, safer to have them from power supply, so if main light fails it does not included the standard and table lights, so one is not plunged into darkness should some one in error over load the lighting circuit.

Having a switched 13A outlet with the switch on the same plate as main lights yes good idea, but would use 20A rated switches and standard 13A sockets powered from socket circuits.

However now you have it, bit late to change.

Today all my circuits are independently protected with combined overload and earth leakage devices called RCBO's but years ago it was common not to have RCD protection on lights, I should think 2 years ago it would be all RCD protected, the problem with a RCD is it can trip for what seems no good reason, likely there is good reason, but not apparent, so the idea was to have two RCD's supplying each room so should it trip as long as lights spread between the two RCD's you still have lights. But this means some lights need to be powered from socket circuits.
 
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I like the adaptor method, as you say you can then still use lamp in other outlets, however the adaptor also means you can plug other 13A stuff into the lighting outlet.

Personally I don't want standard and table lamps powered from lighting supply, safer to have them from power supply, so if main light fails it does not included the standard and table lights, so one is not plunged into darkness should some one in error over load the lighting circuit.

Having a switched 13A outlet with the switch on the same plate as main lights yes good idea, but would use 20A rated switches and standard 13A sockets powered from socket circuits.

However now you have it, bit late to change.

Thanks, Ericmark.

Appreciate the risk of plugging other 13A stuff into outlet, but in reality not a big risk - it's just me in the flat and I'd never need to plug anything else in that socket anyway.

If I were to follow that route, would I leave the existing 13A fuse in the lamp plug, or would it be helpful to replace with a 5A or even 3A fuse, or would that not make any difference given fuse within the lighting circuit?
 
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I would hope there is not a 13A fuse in the lamps, the fuse is to protect cable, so with a thick cable to lamps you can have a 13A fuse, but in the main standard and table lamps have thin cable so normally use a 3A fuse.

However in the main some thing on a lighting circuit is rated 6A, so in the main all lighting circuits are supplied from a 6A MCB or RCBO which are faster acting than a fuse, so with a 3A fuse the MCB or RCBO would always trip first. One amp is the smallest fuse you can get for a 13A plug, and even with 1A it is likely the trip will go first, so in real terms it will not matter what fuse is fitted when powered from lights.
 
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If the lamp came with the existing fuse then the manufacturer is saying its fine as is.
 
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