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Circular saw advice
- Thread starter Traveller
- Start date
Fair enough, but now you've got the tool get a load of scrap wood and get practicing with it. You'll soon figure out yourself the best way to use it. Mistakes are part of the learning process, just try to learn from the inexpensive ones 
BA, maybe you should submit some of this advice to the wiki, cutting lammy boards and circ saw usage etc etc. All good stuff.
BA, maybe you should submit some of this advice to the wiki, cutting lammy boards and circ saw usage etc etc. All good stuff.
Deluks said:Fair enough, but now you've got the tool get a load of scrap wood and get practicing with it. You'll soon figure out yourself the best way to use it. Mistakes are part of the learning process, just try to learn from the inexpensive ones
BA, maybe you should submit some of this advice to the wiki, cutting lammy boards and circ saw usage etc etc. All good stuff.
good advice deluks
wiki is a good idea
i would happily contribute but there is a couple of problems first i go on a bit
secondly it can look realy clear to me but like fog to every one else somtimes
does the wiki allow for other people to correct /ammend /advise of information thats possibly wrong!!!!!
last time i looked there was nowt in carpentry
[/quote][/quote]big-all said:does the wiki allow for other people to correct /ammend /advise of information thats possibly wrong!!!!!
last time i looked there was nowt in carpentry
I don't know how the wiki works but you could do a few test articles as posts, for everyone to pick holes in and point out your spalling mistaks, before you submit it.
I wish we had a 'nudge' emoticon
knoworrimean?Well Deluks, I've taken your advice and have now managed to practice on some scrap wood (the left over halves of the 2.5" x 2.5" legs that were cut before)
Yes I know I said I didn't have anymore questions, but one has come up after my first practice.
I've tried setting up the wood with G-clamps on my bench but just could not manage to create a guide for a straight line. I've made a few cuts 'freehand' but as expected, those were not straight. I only need to trim about one cm off the end of each leg. The base plate takes up this amount of space even before the fence starts, so I can't use the fence in that direction and in the other direction, the G-clamps get in the way of the saw's motor. I also can't put a piece of wood across the leg (on top) because that would then get in the way of the motor as well.
Am I missing something obvious here? I used the cheap blade that came with the saw and it's produced a very smooth cut for this type of wood, but how can I have a guide to get a STRAIGHT cut? I've read big-all's suggestion (if your legs are parralel [not taperd] you can clamp a batton of 2x2" par timber on the line [like a for sale sighn post] and use this to guid the saw on 2 legs at a time) but as mentioned above, the motor gets in the way and on the other side, there's too little leg (1cm) to batten anything on to. Also, anything that will raise the saw off the surface of the leg, will mean that the blade would then be too high to cut all the way through the leg.
Help!
Thanks.
Yes I know I said I didn't have anymore questions, but one has come up after my first practice.
I've tried setting up the wood with G-clamps on my bench but just could not manage to create a guide for a straight line. I've made a few cuts 'freehand' but as expected, those were not straight. I only need to trim about one cm off the end of each leg. The base plate takes up this amount of space even before the fence starts, so I can't use the fence in that direction and in the other direction, the G-clamps get in the way of the saw's motor. I also can't put a piece of wood across the leg (on top) because that would then get in the way of the motor as well.
Am I missing something obvious here? I used the cheap blade that came with the saw and it's produced a very smooth cut for this type of wood, but how can I have a guide to get a STRAIGHT cut? I've read big-all's suggestion (if your legs are parralel [not taperd] you can clamp a batton of 2x2" par timber on the line [like a for sale sighn post] and use this to guid the saw on 2 legs at a time) but as mentioned above, the motor gets in the way and on the other side, there's too little leg (1cm) to batten anything on to. Also, anything that will raise the saw off the surface of the leg, will mean that the blade would then be too high to cut all the way through the leg.
Help!
Thanks.
Well the guide isn't much use for cutting smaller bits of wood, it comes into its own when ripping strips from sheet material.
I know what you mean about clamps getting in the way, what I usually do is pin the guide into place. Very small holes in the workpiece can easily be disguised later on.
erm, no what I usually do is get a tenon saw and cut it by hand
I know what you mean about clamps getting in the way, what I usually do is pin the guide into place. Very small holes in the workpiece can easily be disguised later on.
erm, no what I usually do is get a tenon saw and cut it by hand
Thanks Deluks, I'll give your suggestion a try but it'll have to be a VERY flat guide; a few ice lolly sticks glued together comes to mind! Whatever method/saw will produce the STRAIGHTEST cut in all directions is what I want to use; it doesn't have to be done with my circular saw. Would that be the tenon saw then? Thanks.
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