| Maximum cutting capacity (90° bevel) | 64mm |
|---|
what does cutting capacity 90 degree bevel mean? or to put it another way, what depth should this saw cut if you are simply trimming the bottom the door? thanks.
circular saw purchase
- Thread starter low drains drifter
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what does cutting capacity 90 degree bevel mean? or to put it another way, what depth should this saw cut if you are simply trimming the bottom the door? thanks.
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Maximum cut depth 64mm so anything to that thickness .( Doors are not usually that thick .)
thank you. we are taking off 30mm, so should be ok. any thoughts on best circular saw to buy? It's to cut the bottom of 5 doors and and then not used again.
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Buy a second hand corded circular, something like an Evolution. Use it then flog it.
That said you might be better with a track saw, you clamp the aluminium guides to the door, then whiz the saw down the guides.
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It's not that direction.
If you put a piece of wood 65mm on the saw it will not cut all the way through it; the blade only sticks out of the bottom of the saw by 64mm. If you put a 65mm thick piece of wood on the saw and cut then you will have a single piece of wood at the end, that looks like two blocks of wood joined by a thin 1mm strip at the bottom of a narrow gap between the woods
"At 90 degree bevel" means "when the saw is tilted such that the blade is vertical relative to the bed on which the wood you're cutting sits. For saws that tilt over to eg cut a 45 degree slope into a piece of wood, when the saw is tilted over it can't cut as thick a piece of wood. If the saw blade sticks out 64mm tilting it over to 45 degrees means it might make it through a 40mm piece of wood
The blue is the wood, approx 100mm thick. The diagram represents the side view of the wood after it has had slots cut in it at 90 and at 45
You're trimming 30mm off the bottom of a door; you'll be trimming at 90 degrees on the wood, which will probably be marked as 0 degrees on the saw. If you haven't bought a track you can clamp a straight edge to the door such that the edge plate of the saw is guided by it. You'll need to measure the distance from the edge of the saw blade to the edge of the plate on the saw and add this distance onto 30mm and clamp the guide at that distance.
For instance, my evolution circle saw has a square plate that can be tilted and the edge of the saw blade tooth is 31mm from the edge of the plate. I would clamp a spirit level at 61mm from the bottom of the door and then spin the saw up and just cut a tiny nick in the door and measure again to check it really was 30mm, make any adjustments necessary to the guide rail (spirit level) and run the cut
As you're cutting a decorative surface I would recommend you either do a first pass cut very shallow like 4mm, then cut all through, or I would clamp another piece of sacrificial flat wood to the door and cut through both of them. This will help prevent the door face from splintering and leaving a messy cut edge;
a circ saw cuts upwards toward the plate on the saw. The bottom face of the wood is fine because the decorative surface of the wood is supported by the thickness of the door, but the top face that the saw is running along has no support to stop the top face from splintering upwards as the saw teeth exit from the cut. A supporting wood helps prevent this, as does cutting a shallow pass. With the shallow pass route you can also tap the guide rail down towards the bottom of the door to move it a fraction, maybe half a mm, so that if the blade vibrates as it cuts it doesn't hit the side of the shallow cut
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Borrow one, ask around neighbours and friends.
If not, see if there's a local 'library of things', tool library or 'men in sheds' type organisation that will loan you one.
Don't take used tools back to shops under false pretences. The poor minimum wage staff have to deal with idiot members of the public all day long, they don't need another one. (Plus the one that comes back next week saying I bought this new saw off you last week and it appears to be used)
If not, see if there's a local 'library of things', tool library or 'men in sheds' type organisation that will loan you one.
Don't take used tools back to shops under false pretences. The poor minimum wage staff have to deal with idiot members of the public all day long, they don't need another one. (Plus the one that comes back next week saying I bought this new saw off you last week and it appears to be used)
But the cheapest one
use a Stanley knife and score the cut line across top and edges
clamp a straight edge (or screw in place and fill after) so the sawblade is 1/2mm from the scored line.
set sawblade 5 to 10mm deeper than door thickness
afterwards sand the cut to put on a small pencil round
If the doors are veneered be very careful
+1 from me.
It is wrong on many levels.
It also increases the amount that other customers have to pay.
It may, or may not, be cheaper to pay someone to do it for you.
A pro should have a track saw that is connected to a dust extractor. He, or she, should be able to do each of the doors in less time/cheaper than the depreciation on whichever bit of kit you purchase.
Ordinarly, I would suggest that you buy, and keep the kit, but in your case, do you want to buy £500+ of kit. In reality you are looking at £1000 for a decent saw and decent dust extractor.
thank you very much for all your suggestions and particularly to Robin Banks for his fine artwork. There were a couple of recommendations for an evolution circular saw and we went and bought new. we were paying someone to trim the doors and I did not want to give him a saw that does not work and for him to be sitting around while we paid him. He said it worked really well for the bottom of the doors, so a recommendation for everybody.
And he didn't possess a saw, was he a passing dog walker or something! I think you've been very lucky that your doors are ok and he didn't chop his fingers off and sue you for providing him with tools without training.
doors have been done. there was no ragging at the cut edge. suppose you would use sandpaper if there was.
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