Connecting to lead supply pipe

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I didn't get a chance to disconnect the pipework today, but i've taken a picture - does anyone foresee any problems I may have / tips?
 
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Don't touch it with a barge pole.

I don't understand why you are going to all this hassle when you should get the pipe replaced.

Lead is frowned on these days, ESP in drinking water..!
 
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I dont understand what it is that you are about to do?
1. Does the external stop-cock work? Any new, internal stop-cock will have an arrow on it that indicates flow direction.
2. What we are seeing is presumably a dug-out slab - in the kitchen?
3. You will have to move your Earth connection (is there more than one Earth conn in the pic?) if you cut the pipe, or have a sparky test, and re-arrange the Earthing if plastic pipe goes in to replace the lead. Anyhow, you must not bury the Earth connection. It must be visible.
4. The pipework appears to be 1/2", 3/4" is necessary for modern plumbing.
5. Dont go burying the 2.5mm(?) cable(s), or exposing them to wet concrete.
 
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External stop cock works. Internal stop cock (pictured) doesn't work properly and leaks.
The pictured stop cock is in the sub-floor space directly in front of the front door - water runs from outside from right to left in the picture.
There is only the earth connection that you can see - which I was planning on leaving on the section of lead pipe I don't remove.

I've uploaded another picture which might explain things a bit better.
The black dot is where the stop cock currently is. The front section of the house is all suspended floor, whereas the rest is currently concrete slab which will be renewed so I want to plan the pipework in advance. The slab starts from the line going across the plan by the shower & WC and will stretch all the way back to the end of the diner.
 
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DeltaT2

Shut the water off in the street, cut the lead pipe, wipe a ball joint, fit new stop c.ck, turn the water back on. 1-1½ hour tops.............. ;)
 
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turn water off in street, hacksaw through the copper close up to the stopcock nut, fit new stopcock onto copper....
 
D

DeltaT2

turn water off in street, hacksaw through the copper close up to the stopcock nut, fit new stopcock onto copper....

Looks like a brass nut & ferrule son??!! However, it also looks like the brass nut is ¾" BSP, connecting to the stopc.ck.
 
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I'm now very confused - what's the best way to go forward - do I cut the lead before the old ball joint and join it there or just cut in to the copper and put a new stopcock there.
I would have thought I'd be best joining into the lead as that way I can run a larger supply pipe...
 
D

DeltaT2

I'm now very confused - what's the best way to go forward - do I cut the lead before the old ball joint and join it there or just cut in to the copper and put a new stopcock there.
I would have thought I'd be best joining into the lead as that way I can run a larger supply pipe...

Is it copper connecting to the stopcock mate?? It looks like a brass ferrule with Plumbers' Black on it? Give it a scape to check.
If the lead pipe is not leaking, and if you can connect to what's there without cutting the lead pipe and using a Leadloc. That'll be best.
HTH
 
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Yes it's copper on the left running from the stopcock through the house.

So I should try and disconnect the current leaking stopcock and then attach a Leadloc?
 
D

DeltaT2

Yes it's copper on the left running from the stopcock through the house.

So I should try and disconnect the current leaking stopcock and then attach a Leadloc?

Can you establish if it's copper pipe on the inlet side of the leaking stopcock?? Scape it with a knife. I think it's brass but I was wrong once before.............. ;)
 
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This thread is dragging on a bit :rolleyes:

Water off in street.

Cut out lead & stop cock and an inch of the copper.

Leadooc.

New lever valve and DOC.

Connect to freshly clear copper.

Cup of tee.

15 minutes.

Simples :rolleyes:
 
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Delta, i think that you are spot on. I totally missed what was staring me in the face.
Dan 86,
as Delta indicates, you can remove the valve by loosening the nuts on either side, and replace it with a new one. No cutting required. Take the old valve into a plumbing supplies to show.

AAMOI: where is the valve leaking from? If it's weeping around the spindle, or the nuts, then there is a simple fix available.
 
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It's leaking from around the spindle but even when fully closed it doesn't shut off the water supply. I would have thought I would have been better off increasing the size of the copper pipework to improve the flow to the new boiler which will be installed or will the flow be compromised by the lead size?
 
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theres no point in increasing the size of the copper because of the lead.
 

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