Convert a FCU to Socket and FCU, or Spur of a FCU?

[JohnW2]

There should be another schedule with the necessary information.

Ah, I see - so one doesn't need to undertake tests if one has results of tests undertaken by someone else (probably 'a stranger')?

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

You know that's not what I meant.

How are you going to check the installation method?
Lift the floorboard, knock down a wall or believe 'C' or '103' on a stranger's schedule?

 

[JohnW2]

You know that's not what I meant.

I did?

How are you going to check the installation method? Lift the floorboard, knock down a wall or believe 'C' or '103' on a stranger's schedule?

That's obviously different. One obviously should not really trust a stranger's word, but if one is going to leave the floorboards and walls etc. intact, then the stranger's word is probably more likely to be correct than a wild guess as to the installation method!

Merry Christmas!

Kind Regards, John

 

[MFRacing]

If the cable installation method allows, you could change the MCB on the heating circuit to 16A and do as you have suggested.

That is one socket and FCU.

Hi guys,

Happy new year!

Just picking this up after a hectic xmas. So, the above sounds promising, all i need to get is a 16A MCB, and replace the current one with this? Anyone got an links to one online? Also, i take it i don't need to change any wiring gauge etc?

In terms of the the extra socket i'm thinking of putting it right next to the current FCU. Its a stud wall, so what would the best socket back box to buy, in terms of easy fitment etc?

Thanks again guys.

 

[MFRacing]

I think this is what I need guys? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eaton-B16-EAD16B-Circuit-Breaker-230400v-BSEN-60898-/281532880274

Cheers

 

[MFRacing]

Got the new MCB ordered, just need to fit it first. Looks straight froward as the house has a switch upstream of the consumer box that I can use to isolate it. Any tips?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes.
If you do not have one, you must get yourself a multimeter, or two prong voltage test device (NOT a neon screwdriver) and always, always use the safe testing procedure to be absolutely sure that the whole board is completely isolated.

There is a whole sticky on the subject here //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7553

 

[MFRacing]

Hi guys,

Just bumping this back up as I now have a new question.

I've installed the new socket and spurred it off the FCU and everything went great! Pretty happy with myself, all working great and looks like a pro job!

So before I changed the MCB to the 16A one from the 6A one, I plugged the microwave in and and to my shock everything worked fine, the 6A MCB did not trip, and everything seemed great. Ive now changed the MCB to a 16A as recommend, but i'm now confused, if the 6A one was fine and not tripping, I should be using that really? I thought you should always use the lowest MCB/fuse you can get away with?

Also, i noticed when changing the MCB to the 16A i was supprised to see how thin the cable was supplying the bolder FCU/my new socket, I think its 1.5mm. I take it all that is ok? Its only supplying the boiler FCU and this one new socket.

Should I stick the 6A MCB back in?

Thanks
Matt

 

[JohnW2]

So before I changed the MCB to the 16A one from the 6A one, I plugged the microwave in and and to my shock everything worked fine, the 6A MCB did not trip, and everything seemed great. Ive now changed the MCB to a 16A as recommend, but i'm now confused, if the 6A one was fine and not tripping, I should be using that really? I thought you should always use the lowest MCB/fuse you can get away with?

What power is your microwave, and how long did you have it on for? A 6A MCB will allow about 8.7A (about 2,000W) to flow for an hour, and appreciably greater currents than that to flow for shorter periods of time, without tripping. On a sockets circuit (when you don't know what will get plugged in) the MCB is just there to protect the cable (so any size less than the current carrying capacity of the cable is fine), and one could't size it according to the (unknown) load, even if one wanted to.

Kind Regards, John

 

[MFRacing]

So before I changed the MCB to the 16A one from the 6A one, I plugged the microwave in and and to my shock everything worked fine, the 6A MCB did not trip, and everything seemed great. Ive now changed the MCB to a 16A as recommend, but i'm now confused, if the 6A one was fine and not tripping, I should be using that really? I thought you should always use the lowest MCB/fuse you can get away with?

What power is your microwave, and how long did you have it on for? A 6A MCB will allow about 8.7A (about 2,000W) to flow for an hour, and appreciably greater currents than that to flow for shorter periods of time, without tripping. On a sockets circuit (when you don't know what will get plugged in) the MCB is just there to protect the cable (so any size less than the current carrying capacity of the cable is fine), and one could't size it according to the (unknown) load, even if one wanted to.

Kind Regards, John

Thanks. Its a 800w Microwave, had it on for about 5 min warming up some food. The circuit only has the boiler (3A FCU) and my new single socket, which will only ever have the microwave plugged in. Given that, would the 6A MCB protect the cable etc better and therefore be safer?

Thanks

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks. Its a 800w Microwave, had it on for about 5 min warming up some food.

That wouldn't even trip a 2A MCB.

The circuit only has the boiler (3A FCU) and my new single socket, which will only ever have the microwave plugged in. Given that, would the 6A MCB protect the cable etc better and therefore be safer?

Well, if you were absolutely certainly that you (or anyone else) would never want to plug in anything other than (or in addition to) the microwave, then a 6A MCB would be adequate. However, a 16A MCB provides ample protection to the cable so that 'more/btter protection' would not make it any safer.

Kind Regards, John

 

[MFRacing]

OK thanks. ill leave it as it is.

 

[winston1]

So before I changed the MCB to the 16A one from the 6A one, I plugged the microwave in and and to my shock everything worked fine, the 6A MCB did not trip, and everything seemed great. Ive now changed the MCB to a 16A as recommend, but i'm now confused, if the 6A one was fine and not tripping, I should be using that really? I thought you should always use the lowest MCB/fuse you can get away with?

What power is your microwave, and how long did you have it on for? A 6A MCB will allow about 8.7A (about 2,000W) to flow for an hour, and appreciably greater currents than that to flow for shorter periods of time, without tripping. On a sockets circuit (when you don't know what will get plugged in) the MCB is just there to protect the cable (so any size less than the current carrying capacity of the cable is fine), and one could't size it according to the (unknown) load, even if one wanted to.

Kind Regards, John

Thanks. Its a 800w Microwave, had it on for about 5 min warming up some food. The circuit only has the boiler (3A FCU) and my new single socket, which will only ever have the microwave plugged in. Given that, would the 6A MCB protect the cable etc better and therefore be safer?

Thanks

The 800 watts refers to the output into the food. The input power from the mains will be around 1200 watts. See the rating label on the back.

 

[MFRacing]

Thanks. Will 1200w make a difference to my setup/MCB etc?

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks. Will 1200w make a difference to my setup/MCB etc?

Nope. Your 16A MCB is good for up to about 3,680W. Even a 6A one would be OK up to about 1,380W.

Kind Regards, John