Converting a Cooker socket

[kinhell]

I've built a new kitchen and the old kitchen still has a cooker socket on one of the walls. Is it ok to move it to skirting level and just put a double socket there or not? It has 6mm cable.

 

[thewolf]

most older cooker outlets run (or should) run at least 30 amps so there shouldn't be a problem converting this to a standard double outlet.

but i would replace both the cable and the fuse/MCB at the consumer unit for safety's sake. the cable because you don't know how old it is or the condition it is in where it is hidden and ideally you want a single run from consumer unit to switch (no joints) and the breaker device because you shouldn't want anything stronger than a 20 amp unit to cover a normal outlet in any case.

 

[professional]

most older cooker outlets run (or should) run at least 30 amps so there shouldn't be a problem converting this to a standard double outlet.

but i would replace both the cable and the fuse/MCB at the consumer unit for safety's sake. the cable because you don't know how old it is or the condition it is in where it is hidden and ideally you want a single run from consumer unit to switch (no joints) and the breaker device because you shouldn't want anything stronger than a 20 amp unit to cover a normal outlet in any case.

Why not? - we use 32A mcb`s on a ring final circuit.

 

[thewolf]

most older cooker outlets run (or should) run at least 30 amps so there shouldn't be a problem converting this to a standard double outlet.

but i would replace both the cable and the fuse/MCB at the consumer unit for safety's sake. the cable because you don't know how old it is or the condition it is in where it is hidden and ideally you want a single run from consumer unit to switch (no joints) and the breaker device because you shouldn't want anything stronger than a 20 amp unit to cover a normal outlet in any case.

Why not? - we use 32A mcb`s on a ring final circuit.

using 32 amp or even 40 amp MCB's to protect a ring main is commonplace but only from the consumer unit to the first junction point-thereafter 26 amp ring main cable should be used but if something goes wrong with the intermediate cable in a single installation (from consumer unit to outlet) such as it gets damaged or whatever you want to be sure the MCB is going to trip rather than supply current up to 32 amps or whatever to the damaged cable-this creates a fire hazard if the cable is rated at 30 amps it should be covered with a 20 amp MCB anyway-the maximum carrying capacity of any cable should always exceed the breaker unit that supplies it.

as you say-there is nothing wrong (technically) with using 32 amps to cover an outlet and so long as nothing goes wrong with the wiring then all should be well but safety comes first-and besides what are you going to plug into a standard outlet that consumes that amount of current?

 

[aptsys]

using 32 amp or even 40 amp MCB's to protect a ring main is commonplace but only from the consumer unit to the first junction point-thereafter 26 amp ring main cable should be used but if something goes wrong with the intermediate cable in a single installation (from consumer unit to outlet) such as it gets damaged or whatever you want to be sure the MCB is going to trip rather than supply current up to 32 amps or whatever to the damaged cable-this creates a fire hazard if the cable is rated at 30 amps it should be covered with a 20 amp MCB anyway-the maximum carrying capacity of any cable should always exceed the breaker unit that supplies it.

as you say-there is nothing wrong (technically) with using 32 amps to cover an outlet and so long as nothing goes wrong with the wiring then all should be well but safety comes first-and besides what are you going to plug into a standard outlet that consumes that amount of current?

 

[professional]

most older cooker outlets run (or should) run at least 30 amps so there shouldn't be a problem converting this to a standard double outlet.

but i would replace both the cable and the fuse/MCB at the consumer unit for safety's sake. the cable because you don't know how old it is or the condition it is in where it is hidden and ideally you want a single run from consumer unit to switch (no joints) and the breaker device because you shouldn't want anything stronger than a 20 amp unit to cover a normal outlet in any case.

Why not? - we use 32A mcb`s on a ring final circuit.

using 32 amp or even 40 amp MCB's to protect a ring main is commonplace but only from the consumer unit to the first junction point-thereafter 26 amp ring main cable should be used but if something goes wrong with the intermediate cable in a single installation (from consumer unit to outlet) such as it gets damaged or whatever you want to be sure the MCB is going to trip rather than supply current up to 32 amps or whatever to the damaged cable-this creates a fire hazard if the cable is rated at 30 amps it should be covered with a 20 amp MCB anyway-the maximum carrying capacity of any cable should always exceed the breaker unit that supplies it.

as you say-there is nothing wrong (technically) with using 32 amps to cover an outlet and so long as nothing goes wrong with the wiring then all should be well but safety comes first-and besides what are you going to plug into a standard outlet that consumes that amount of current?

If you are a spark, I pity your customers. I suggest you enroll on an electrical design course PDQ because I think that you need it.

 

[stargazer]

I've built a new kitchen and the old kitchen still has a cooker socket on one of the walls. Is it ok to move it to skirting level and just put a double socket there or not? It has 6mm cable.

(1) Check the rating of the circuit's breaker - if it is 32A leave as is, otherwise de-rate to 32A.

(2) Lower and replace with a double socket as is your desire.

(3) Wonder momentarily about Part P.

(4) Job done, crack open a bottle of 1664.

 

[thewolf]

most older cooker outlets run (or should) run at least 30 amps so there shouldn't be a problem converting this to a standard double outlet.

but i would replace both the cable and the fuse/MCB at the consumer unit for safety's sake. the cable because you don't know how old it is or the condition it is in where it is hidden and ideally you want a single run from consumer unit to switch (no joints) and the breaker device because you shouldn't want anything stronger than a 20 amp unit to cover a normal outlet in any case.

Why not? - we use 32A mcb`s on a ring final circuit.

using 32 amp or even 40 amp MCB's to protect a ring main is commonplace but only from the consumer unit to the first junction point-thereafter 26 amp ring main cable should be used but if something goes wrong with the intermediate cable in a single installation (from consumer unit to outlet) such as it gets damaged or whatever you want to be sure the MCB is going to trip rather than supply current up to 32 amps or whatever to the damaged cable-this creates a fire hazard if the cable is rated at 30 amps it should be covered with a 20 amp MCB anyway-the maximum carrying capacity of any cable should always exceed the breaker unit that supplies it.

as you say-there is nothing wrong (technically) with using 32 amps to cover an outlet and so long as nothing goes wrong with the wiring then all should be well but safety comes first-and besides what are you going to plug into a standard outlet that consumes that amount of current?

If you are a spark, I pity your customers. I suggest you enroll on an electrical design course PDQ because I think that you need it.[/quot

well i have yet to recieve a complaint (or call-back) in 25 years-but then who am i to argue with the experts!

rule no1-the circuit breaker must never be the same as or exceed the specified maximum load of the supply cable-first thing i was taught in domestic electrical installation that was-i would have thought you would have known that stargazer?

you have just advised this person that he can convert to a standard outlet-without enquiring or inspecting the condition of the wiring (i doubt it has gone through a full continuity and earth leakage examination isthe cable rubber or PVC coated?-are the core wires red and black or blue and brown?)-he did say it was an old kitchen-it may not even be the correct cable!!-obviously i could not inspect the wiring myself which is why i said replace it-something any electrician worth his salt would have done.

it's not my customers that should be pitied!.

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[stargazer]

Stuff

I of course bow to your superior knowledge and withdraw my previous advice.

OP I recommend that you now

(1) Completely re-wire your house from top to bottom.

(2) Replace your incoming mains cable all the way back to the transformer up the road.

(3) Send your local Council’s Building Control a donation of £1,000, payable to "Part P", to help compensate them for all that money they've lost in Iceland.

(4) If the wall containing the new socket outlet is slightly out of true, knock it down and rebuild it.

(5) Better still, knock down your entire house and rebuild it.

(6) Job done, crack open a bottle of 1664.

 

[jockspark]

most older cooker outlets run (or should) run at least 30 amps so there shouldn't be a problem converting this to a standard double outlet.

but i would replace both the cable and the fuse/MCB at the consumer unit for safety's sake. the cable because you don't know how old it is or the condition it is in where it is hidden and ideally you want a single run from consumer unit to switch (no joints) and the breaker device because you shouldn't want anything stronger than a 20 amp unit to cover a normal outlet in any case.

is this a wind up

 

[jockspark]

I've built a new kitchen and the old kitchen still has a cooker socket on one of the walls. Is it ok to move it to skirting level and just put a double socket there or not? It has 6mm cable.

in theory yes you would have to test the cable ir test ect
is your consumer unit rcd protected ?
does the cable to the cooker unit come up from the floor?
give us a little more information we will do our best to help