Cooked fan timers

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For many years, almost every small timer fan I’ve dissected has had essentially the same means of deriving power for the timer electronics – a dropping resistor (usually 22kΩ or 24kΩ, looking about 2W rating), rectifier diode and 15V zener diode (with capacitor) in series between L & N. By my reckoning, that amounts to a constant load of about 1.12W (at 240V, which is what most of us have), whether or not the fan is operating (for those interested in such things, approaching an ‘energy wastage’ of 10kWh per year).

Virtually every such fan I have taken out of service has shown appreciable thermal damage resulting from the heat dissipated in the dropping resistor – always appreciable heat damage to the resistor itself, usually associated with varying degrees (sometimes very marked) of thermal damage to the PCB and nearby components. In the last one I replaced, there was marked scorching of much of the PCB and the resistor had got so hot that it had unsoldered the joints at both ends.

The resistance of the dropping resistors is always still roughly ‘in-spec’ when removed, so what we are seeing must be the consequence of the normal/intended (about 1.12W) dissipation in the resistor (maybe a bit less, since it gets so hot), not any sort of overload or fault.

Does this correspond to other people’s experiences? Do these things ever actually catch on fire? It’s tempting to suggest, from my experiences, that the design is not really ‘fit for purpose’ – although, without considerably increasing the complexity (hence cost, and probably space requirements) it’s difficult to see what else they could do. I’m not sure that increasing the power rating of the dropping resistor (even if a bigger one would fit) would achieve very much, since the same amount of power would still be dissipated, and the problem is more one of cooling/air circulation than of the actual rating of the component (I've never seen one which has actually 'died'). One might consider routing a tiny bit of the fan’s airflow for ‘cooling’ purposes – but, since that would only work when the fan was operating, would probably not help very much in terms of the big picture.

Any observations/thoughts?

Kind Regards, John.
 
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observations.

1) get out more

2) get out even more.

3) dont dissect anymore fans and relentlessly test them, fit a new one and move on.

4) get a job in research at one of the many fan manufacturers.

:D :D
 
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Here's one I removed earlier today. which is identical to your description:
Thanks. Yep, that's it, but some I've seen have had far more severe and extensive thermal damage to the PCB and adjacent components than that.

Kind Regards, John.
 
5) Use a non-timed ELV fan and design and build a better timer.
Yes, a possibility. Mind you, I think one could use the same timer module, and the LV fan, if one simply removed it from the fan casing and housed it in a better ventilated enclosure somewhere. There's nothing wrong with the design (apart from the continuous power drain), the only issue really being the degree of heating that is resulting from little over 1W being dissipated in a very restricted space.

As for the 'continuous power drain' issue, although I've not thought it through in detail, I suspect that for the price of a second triac and another component or two one could probably arrange that power was only being drawn whilst the fan was operating. The only thing which makes me hesitate about that suggestion is that far greater minds than mine have probably considered it - hence, if their reason for not implementing it is anything other than cost-saving, I'm probably missing something!

Kind Regards, John.
 
Almost certainly every single design choice was made with cost saving as the most important criterion.
 
Almost certainly every single design choice was made with cost saving as the most important criterion.
For 'standard'/'budget' ranges, yes - but some of the manufacturers also have appreciably more expensive 'premium' ranges, for which one assumes that cost-saving is a bit less of an issue.

Kind REgards, John.
 
The idea of products like that is to make more profit - wouldn't work if they let costs increase.

Particularly for internal gubbins which are required to do exactly the same thing no matter how shiny the outside is.
 
Thats a fairly bog standard way of obtaining a low current, low voltage supply from the mains - prob used in most digital time switches as well. A better variation is one which replaces the dropping resistor by a suitable non-polarised capacitor but these are bigger & more expensive.

I guess it is just down to cost, although if the dropping resistor is well chosen it should simply go open circuit if it becomes overloaded (due to failures in other parts of the circuit). I've seen many a cooked PCB around these droppers but never known of one catch fire .... 1W or so isnt exactly a lot of power. What is the alternative? A true linear power supply perhaps? But would the transfomer losses be greater? Maybe so... it would certainly cost more & take up more space.

Adrian
 
Thats a fairly bog standard way of obtaining a low current, low voltage supply from the mains - prob used in most digital time switches as well. A better variation is one which replaces the dropping resistor by a suitable non-polarised capacitor but these are bigger & more expensive.
Indeed.
I guess it is just down to cost, although if the dropping resistor is well chosen it should simply go open circuit if it becomes overloaded (due to failures in other parts of the circuit).
Significant overload of the resistor obviously cannot usually occur. In it's normal operating state, it has about 93% of the supply voltage constantly across it. The very worst that can happen is that any 'failure in other parts of the circuit' (other than the rectifier diode going short-circuit) may raise that to 100%. If the rectifier diode failed (short-circuit), the power dissipated in the resistor would roughly double - but I suspect that the zener might well then act promtly as a fuse and/or the electrolytic across it would blow up!
I've seen many a cooked PCB around these droppers but never known of one catch fire .... 1W or so isnt exactly a lot of power. What is the alternative? A true linear power supply perhaps? But would the transfomer losses be greater? Maybe so... it would certainly cost more & take up more space.
Indeed - that's essentially what I said. As you say, it's possible that a true linear PSU could be made with less losses (although getting much below 1W might not be easy) but, as you also say there would then be an appreciably cost in money and space, even if it could be done.

Hence the 'off the top of my head' thought. I doubt whether thermal damage would usually be much of an issue if current flowed through the dropping resistor only when the fan was running. As I said, I haven't thought it through in detail, let alone tried to experiment with it yet, but I would have thought it would be easy enough, with few additional components, to feed the power supply through a second triac which was 'latched' on only while the fan was being powered.

Kind Regards, John.
Edits: clarifications added
 
1W or so isnt exactly a lot of power.
It's enough to raise the temperature of 10-12mm² of the sole plate of a normal domestic clothes iron to over 200°C....

Really? How to you calculate this ....bearing in mind that dividing the wattage of of the iron by its surface area is flawed maths....... I suggest that 1W won't raise a piece of steel of even that kind of small surface area by anything like 200 degress in free air....
 
dividing the wattage of of the iron by its surface area is flawed maths
Why?


I suggest that 1W won't raise a piece of steel of even that kind of small surface area by anything like 200 degress in free air
I wonder what the surface area (not just the tip) of a bit on a 15W soldering iron is? They get even hotter than 200°.
 

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