Cooker hood wiring

[RobTi]

Hi I have a chimney type cooker hood and wondered about isolation when wiring, I was going to fit a fused spur up on the wall next to it or behind the chimney piece as it will be used in recirculated mode so that’s an empty space behind and feed it from the ring below, or fit a switched fuse spur next to the appliances spurs and just have a junction box up high,any problems with this ?
Thanks

 

[sparkwright]

Any of those ideas are ok, if done properly.

I'd be less inclined to fit a switch or socket 'inside' the chimney, as isolation is difficult, but it's not a major issue IMO.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I really dislike sockets and FCUs hidden away like this. I’ve been to several sites where the fuse has gone (one of the lamps blown).
So extractor doesn’t work and nobody knows or remembers where the plug/FCU is. Put it somewhere obvious, please.

 

[winston1]

Also put the right fuse in that won’t blow when a lamp goes. 5 amp should by OK. Even a 13 amp if the cable (which is what the fuse is there to protect) is 1.5mm.

 

[danechip]

In the past I have put an isolator in the cupboard beside the extractor.

 

[AndyPRK]

Mine is connected off lighting circuit which seams sensible alternative option.

I learnt this when the bulb blew! And tripped rcbo

 

[RobTi]

Thanks all for the replies the hood sits in the middle of the wall so no cupboards to hide the switch all I have is the ring running round just above worktop height and to the left and right of the hob are switches for appliances under the worktop which control sockets and plug tops for the appliances below. So what would you do to connect the extractor hood ?
Thanks

 

[JohnD]

The layout you describe is very common. I would put a FCU in the same row as all your other switches and sockets (I hope you have plenty of them) around 200mm above the worktop, with the spur running vertically to an outlet that will not be obstructed by the hood, but will be high enough to be out of eyeline, that the hood can be connected to. You can use a flex outlet which is unobtrusive, or if you want, a socket* and plug the hood in. In my case I have a double socket controlled by a switch* below as I intend one day to fit under-cabinet lighting. You can put it at a height that will be above wall cabinets, just in case you ever decide to have some. The switch must be directly below the outlet with the cable straight and vertical so that you have a reasonable chance of guessing where it is when you next drill a hole in the wall.

You can also put FCUs* or 20A DP switches* in that same row to control undercounter appliances such as dishwasher, fridge.

*It doesn't really matter if you have a fuse in the FCU as well as a fuse in the plug. Modern appliance fuses blow approximately never. In the improbable event of both fuses blowing, the lower one will be the first one you check, and the upper one will be the next thing you look at, because you have not hidden it.

it is a lot easier to take a plug out than to open up a flex outlet, when the appliance needs to be replaced or repaired, especially when you are on a ladder or crawling under a worktop.

If you are foolish enough to hide the outlet behind a built-in appliance, then it may be inconvenient to access.

 

[winston1]

You can also put FCUs* or 20A DP switches* in that same row to control undercounter appliances such as dishwasher, fridge.

*It doesn't really matter if you have a fuse in the FCU as well as a fuse in the plug. Modern appliance fuses blow approximately never. In the improbable event of both fuses blowing, the lower one will be the first one you check, and the upper one will be the next thing you look at, because you have not hidden it.

it is a lot easier to take a plug out than to open up a flex outlet, when the appliance needs to be replaced or repaired, especially when you are on a ladder or crawling under a worktop.

If you are foolish enough to hide the outlet behind a built-in appliance, then it may be inconvenient to access.

Absolutely pointless having two fuses in line. If you must have above counter isolation use switches. But it is not necessary anyway to have this ugly row of switches. Isolation is best achieved by pulling the plug. A faulty appliance will need moving out anyway.

Re cooker hood, yes a low down FCU feeding a flex outlet above. I would personally hide the flex outlet in the chimney if possible. You will never to access it until the day you decide to change the cooker hood.

 

[JohnD]

two fuses in line.

It's not worth you moaning about.

 

[bernardgreen]

A faulty appliance will need moving out anyway.

Think about the situation when the fault in the appliance makes moving the appliance hazardous until power is removed.

also consider the situation where the person is unable to move the appliance.

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

Think about the situation ...

He's been made aware of such issues many times, but chooses to bore on. Matchbox philosophies?

 

[winston1]

Think about the situation when the fault in the appliance makes moving the appliance hazardous until power is removed.

Switch off at CU.

also consider the situation where the person is unable to move the appliance.

Switch off at CU then call dad, son, fire brigade, or whatever.

Isolation above the worktop is not a requirement and leaning above a faulty appliance to isolate it is not wise.

 

[bernardgreen]

Winston please STOP being so short sighted, your obsession with this opinion of yours proves conclusively that you have little experience of real life when things go wrong.

Turn off at the CU, then at night the house is then likely to be in darkness. and the cordless phone is likely to be useless without power.

 

[sparkwright]

Absolutely pointless having two fuses in line. If you must have above counter isolation use switches. But it is not necessary anyway to have this ugly row of switches. Isolation is best achieved by pulling the plug. A faulty appliance will need moving out anyway.

Re cooker hood, yes a low down FCU feeding a flex outlet above. I would personally hide the flex outlet in the chimney if possible. You will never to access it until the day you decide to change the cooker hood.

Technically pointless, yet electrically sound, perfectly normal, and never to be a problem, not worth mentioning.