Cooker Hood

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Not sure if this is the right place to put this but here goes. Where our old cooker hood was was the ideal situ for our new one. So the socket the old plugged into was left as was the point for a new lighting system. It wasn't until we actually fitted the hood did we realise that the plug sockets really weren't in the right place. I then thought ity's fine I will adapt the chimney part (no outoing flue) to fit with the line of the top of the cupboards but quite frankly I'm not impressed by my work so am now seeking help in the best way to make it look good.

One option is to move the two swtiches centrally and then get a new chimney and put this up to the ceiling which means then blocking the switches. This could be partly solved by hard wiring the hood rather than the plug it has now.

Can I please ask people's opinions, pictures below

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Assuming, (and I could be wrong as I so often am), that the cables go straight up and come from the left can you re-locate the DSS to the left of the chimney?
Not sure if you would have to notify as it is in a kitchen.
 
It does all depend upon where the wiring that feeds those outlets comes from?

Are they both for the hood?

IMO, the best solution would be a fused spur above worktop height and a flex outlet behind the hood's metalwork.
 
Why no just put a fly through shelf in .. cut the panel the same width as the gap between the two wall cupboards , then cut it around the chimney . Then continue the cornice through in front of the chimney .. all is then hidden and no need to move the electrics.
just a thought
Phill
 
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Also, this may enable you to run some proper ducting which will turn your extractor into something that actually does what it's supposed to do!
 
Where does the hood finish above the hob, what's the distance between hob and hood.
Not clear on your pics.
You could of course alter the location of the accessories above, to a more suitable location.
But TBH the hood does not look great finished like that, would normally go straight to the ceiling level. As you have mentioned, does the switched FCU next to the socket outlet protect that socket or is that for protecting other equipment?
I would personal go with installing with a FCU at worktop height, to operate an accessible outlet that the hood can be powered by.
 
Wow quite shocked how many responses I got. The fused spur to the left is actually from an old lighting circuit that used to go under the old cupboards. This has been left to open up the opty to have this again. The wiring comes across I understand from the right/left. So in theory they could be moved. Would be good to be able to switch the hood off at source when not being used although not 100% necessary.

The issue is if I start moving stuff it becomes a bigger job and probably the need for a sparkie to come in and sort it for me. The best idea I had has been mentioned which was indeed to have a fly shelf although I was not convinced I'd cut it beautifully enough to go round the chimney and make it look good but I genuin ely believe this is the most cost effective. We are moving house so it's really to make it look good enough to the naked eye and not as it does now.

We are not in a position to really move the cooker hood, its just above the legal minimum from cooker height to hood and it 's been tiled up to underneath so not to move it would then mean a load more tiling which I'd rather avoid having not done the main job myself anyway lol.
 
I don't think a shelf above the hood would look good.
I think that if your intending to sell the house, you make the kitchen as presentable as possible and spend a little more cash and time on it.
As the saying goes "kitchens and bathrooms sell houses"
The chimney on the cooker hood is designed to go to ceiling level.
 
Hi prentice.
We install fly through shelves or tophats as they are sometimes known, on a weekly basis, check out all the magazines and kitchen sites .. the chimney hood with a shelf is the in thing now .
It is easier to cut a chipboard shelf around a chimney than to cut a stainles steel chimney to a wonky ceiling, and as pointed out a correct ventilation system can then be added to duct to the outside without it being seen. This is mentioned in part L of the building regs that if a hood is fitted then if possible it should be vented.. new builds is a requirement( I think ).
Having said that , it is also a personal choice.
Phill
 

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