Cooker socket question?

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I have a new electric cooker with a 13amp rating that can be plugged stright in and a gas hob that needs plugging in for its ignition.
I have seperate cooker socket fed from a 30amp fuse with 6mm cable will it be ok to swap this cooker socket for a double socket and plug both electric oven and ignition for hob into this.
Any help would be great thanks ;)
 
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It would work.

Why not replace the 30a breaker with a 6a for piece if mind.

Remember to replace the fuse inside the plug to appropriate rating.

PS. Im not an electrician and do not know if using this radial circuit would be suitable and to current regs, so dont quote me.

Al
 
It would work.

Why not replace the 30a breaker with a 6a for piece if mind.

I have a new electric cooker with a 13amp rating that can be plugged stright in and a gas hob that needs plugging in for its ignition.

So that's 13A for the oven and a negligible rating for the igniter. Do you still think a 6A MCB would work?

so dont quote me.

Sorry!

To the OP - no problem at all with that arrangement assuming the socket will be accessible.
 
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Thanks for your help Garrymo.
One other question if i were to use one of these double sockets for a washing machine instead of the hob ignition would it still be ok or should i stick to the original plan??
:?:
 
Thanks for your help Garrymo.
One other question if i were to use one of these double sockets for a washing machine instead of the hob ignition would it still be ok or should i stick to the original plan??
:?:

Electric oven and washing machine on the same double socket isn't a good idea!
 
Thought so!!
Stick to original plan i think, and use an extension cable for the washing machine to ring main socket. Dont want to use extension cable but my only option in think.
Thanks for all your help.
 
Could just be a typo?

Yes, possibly should have been 16A.
If not, it's a get out of jail free card :)
But would he be re-arrested at the gates of the jail for this:confused:

I have seperate cooker socket fed from a 30amp fuse
Why not replace the 30a breaker with a 6a for piece if mind.

;)

But dropping down from a 30A fuse (assuming - reasonably IMO - that it's a rewirable) would give peace of mind if you had absolutely no idea how the cable was installed.
 
Just to clear things up,
fuse on cons unit is a 30amp re-wireable type and its a single fan assisted oven.
We like to say coooooker in yorkshire me lad.
Thanks
 
Drop the fuse to a 15A and then run just the oven off of it.

The idea of running a washing machine off an extension is not ideal. To be honest, old rewireable CU plus not enough sockets sounds like you could do with some upgrading work. I'd seriously consider a new kitchen ring and consumer unit. These days the number of appliances in the average kitchen can put an overload on an installation that wasn't designed to be used like we do. Most kitchens have several high current using appliances, and often they are all on at once. We often have the washing machine, tumble dryer and dishwasher running at once, and that is perfectly normal. However, in order to do this I had to rewire the kitchen.
 
But dropping down from a 30A fuse (assuming - reasonably IMO - that it's a rewirable) would give peace of mind if you had absolutely no idea how the cable was installed.

It would be unlikely that'll be a problem considering it's a downstairs circuit so normally away from thermal insulation and the like. As long as the cable in its installed conditions is rated at a minimum of 41.4A then it's fine with a 30A BS3036 fuse.
In any case, a twin 13A socket outlet is being installed with overload protection of 16A (26A if he doesn't fit the correct fuses) via the two BS1362 fuses installed (13A oven, 3A igniter).

OP - Is your rewirable fuseboard made by Wylex with fuses like this?

336d576d673239372d62616b544a614b585377-100x100-0-0.jpg


If so then you could directly replace your fuse with a B32 or B20 MCB.

1723_1.JPG
 

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