Correcting Door/Door frame

[MidsTW]

In the spare bedroom I am currently decorating there is a door to the loft. I thought while I was doing the room up I would realign the door and frame. In the end I had to take the door off and the framing above beloon the hinge side. I have repacked the hinge side of the door and it now aligns better both sides. I was going to put a piece of 3x2 across the top as the header and then plasterboard all around the door so that I can put up coving and then paper. I need to pack out the plasterboard on the left side above the door as the door doesn't run parallel to the wall ( didn't want to alter the step )

Should I nail up the packing strips and then glue the plasterboard so that I don't need to skim prior to papering?

Any advice greatly appreciated

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View media item 92568

 

[noseall]

I can't quite grasp what is happening with the door casing v's the studwork.

Normally a door casing would be proud of the surrounding cradling or studwork by the depth of a plasterboard plus skim.

Therefore, it looks to me as though you owe the job a door casing header and some stud infill, with the casing header being in plane with the two casing legs and the stud infill above set back to accommodate some plasterboard. Its up to you whether you allow for skim or not.

I have seen in the past where diy'ers have tried to fill in a door opening by leaving the door casing in place. The end result is a wall with the outline of the casing sticking through the finished plaster because the casing has not been chiselled back.

 

[MidsTW]

Thanks noseall. I agree that I need to add a casing header in line with the 2 legs. Then some studwork to plasterboard to which will be set back enough to run out into the existing wall. What size timber should I generally use here? I was going to use some beading to blend the proud door casing into the wall...