I'm putting in a complete new system in a 125 year old end terrace in london. Just had a big loft conversion so 3 stories. No specification or plans or even budget. I'm putting in an Intergas 30 system boiler. A 180 unvented cylinder. I've run 28mm soldered gas to the boiler. Run in my new heating loop in 22mm, fed the new radiator positions with 15mm of the loop all in mapress did it all in a day. Gotta love pressfit
Could you check my CH layout please
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Haha. There more to a pipe than a hole lol.
The 2 back to back are about 1.5 metres from the flow and return and so I'm just going to put them on their own feeds. It'll make life easier if I ever move them down the line.
The 2 back to back are about 1.5 metres from the flow and return and so I'm just going to put them on their own feeds. It'll make life easier if I ever move them down the line.
How is this relevant to yorkshireblokes's question? Or are you just showing off?
I was going to suggest 22mm from boiler to the riser, where it divides into ground and first floor loops, which can be done in 15mm.
How will you be controlling the switch between CH and HW, bearing in mind that HW needs max output?
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I'm sorry buddy but I'm not sure what you mean lol!
A Honeywell 3 port valve in a Y plan if that's what you mean?
You mean a "D plan"? Hot water priority with the 3-port in a different plumbing orientation.
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Oooh interesting, I've never heard of a D plan before. So went to do some reading and I couldn't find anything on the net that said owt about a D plan??What is one bud?
I thought the 3 port would be fitted in a Y plan, so either hot water or CH but not both together?
I thought the 3 port would be fitted in a Y plan, so either hot water or CH but not both together?
I've never hear of 'D Plan', either; but I know what dilalio is talking about.
It's a diverter valve installed the 'wrong' way round. Let's explain more.
Unlike the mid-position valve (used in Y Plans) which has three positions (A, or B, or A+B), a diverter valve has only two positions (A, or B). This is necessary if you are using Opentherm to control the heating as OT will vary the boiler water temperature, but DHW always needs the water temperature at max; so you can't have both CH and HW at the same time. Putting the valve the 'wrong' way round (A to HW, B to CH) means that the valve is only powered when HW is required, which will be for less time than CH.
I see from your other topics that you intend using Honeywell's Evohome system with the Opentherm option. I presume this will set the correct boiler water temperature when HW is called.
It's a diverter valve installed the 'wrong' way round. Let's explain more.
Unlike the mid-position valve (used in Y Plans) which has three positions (A, or B, or A+B), a diverter valve has only two positions (A, or B). This is necessary if you are using Opentherm to control the heating as OT will vary the boiler water temperature, but DHW always needs the water temperature at max; so you can't have both CH and HW at the same time. Putting the valve the 'wrong' way round (A to HW, B to CH) means that the valve is only powered when HW is required, which will be for less time than CH.
I see from your other topics that you intend using Honeywell's Evohome system with the Opentherm option. I presume this will set the correct boiler water temperature when HW is called.
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Hmmm, I think I'm following...
So because we are likely to be using the CH more than the HW, mounting the valve backwards as such will mean the spring will be at rest and the motor not energised when the CH is being used. And therefore I guess the motor will switch on and divert flow to HW which will likely only be for a short time to recover the HW temp. Is that right?
Ok, so something I came across when doing some reading (funny enough there isn't much info on fitting a 3 port backwards!) was that I can still use the mid position 3 port valve I have, but the wiring needs to be modified. Now my rudimentary understanding was that the mid position to allow both CH and HW is a motorised position, and so I guess I could either wire that differently, or do i actually omit one part of the wiring so that there is no mid position?
Its either that or have to buy a diverter valve I think.
In regards to your evohome/HW question, I honestly don't know. Perhaps someone on here that's fitted this sort of system before could tell us?
Thanks as always!
Alex
So because we are likely to be using the CH more than the HW, mounting the valve backwards as such will mean the spring will be at rest and the motor not energised when the CH is being used. And therefore I guess the motor will switch on and divert flow to HW which will likely only be for a short time to recover the HW temp. Is that right?
Ok, so something I came across when doing some reading (funny enough there isn't much info on fitting a 3 port backwards!) was that I can still use the mid position 3 port valve I have, but the wiring needs to be modified. Now my rudimentary understanding was that the mid position to allow both CH and HW is a motorised position, and so I guess I could either wire that differently, or do i actually omit one part of the wiring so that there is no mid position?
Its either that or have to buy a diverter valve I think.
In regards to your evohome/HW question, I honestly don't know. Perhaps someone on here that's fitted this sort of system before could tell us?
Thanks as always!
Alex
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Personally I’d be setting that boiler up as a hot water priority system. Fit a smaller, faster recovery cylinder than normal and through the magic of Pin 5 you can have the boiler ramp up to 85 degrees to reheat the cylinder and then drop back to a lower flow temp (more efficient). You’ll reheat the cylinder in 10 mins or less. All controlled by OpenTherm and then properly configured through the software. Run your own pipes and fit your rads (hopefully sized to suit a 100% condensing flow and retrun, i.e. flowing at 55 degrees) but get an Intergas installer to do the rest, it’s such an adaptable boiler that a S or Y plan system is literally choking its potential.
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That's pretty much what I'm doing. Running the magic D plan
I've gone for a 250l tank though as it's a twin coil tank, so with a thermal collector and excess solar elec running the immersion in hoping the boiler will hardly have much to do to bring the temp up.
I wasn't going to do all the work myself but having done all of the home work and having done the pipework in the house in going to actually run everything apart from the gas I think. It'll save some very much needed pennies as well, as the house is just eating money at the moment
I've gone for a 250l tank though as it's a twin coil tank, so with a thermal collector and excess solar elec running the immersion in hoping the boiler will hardly have much to do to bring the temp up.
I wasn't going to do all the work myself but having done all of the home work and having done the pipework in the house in going to actually run everything apart from the gas I think. It'll save some very much needed pennies as well, as the house is just eating money at the moment
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