Hi There,
I have a couple of questions regarding my kitchen that I'm about to install. I wonder if a sparky could comment ? pretty please I really can't afford a sparky to do the work, but want to get it certified after I've done it all.
First off, I am replacing 5x 240v Halogens with 6x 50w LV's halogens. I was thinking of having 3 transformers wired parallel, e.g each transformer getting it's feed from a switched junction box. Is this the best way ? I already have 4 LV halogens on this 6a mcb circuit, and I assume adding another 6 is not a problem ?
My downstairs ring main is run from a 32a RCBO.
My Hob is gas, e.g the only electricity it uses, is for the spark to light the gas. Does this really need a separate feed or will a standard ring main socket do ? Does it have to have an isolation switch above the counter ? Same question for the hood ?
The oven (not sure of wattage as I haven't bought it yet) will have a separate feed to an isolation switch. The problem is, this isolation switch has to be visible, correct ? This will put it within arms reach of the sink.. not good. There is a wall on the other side of the cooker, so it can't go there. The unit the cooker is housed in is a tall cabinet. Anyone think of a way round it ?
The wires will be run in wall channels from upstairs. I was planning on running the cables through plastic conduit, then plastering over them.. is this acceptable under the regs or does it need to be metal conduit ?
I was going to run earth bonding to the main water inlet. It's about 5 meters from the CU to the water stop. What size earth cable should I use ? 6mm or 10mm ?
The sink is ceramic so no bonding needed there, the taps are metal but will have plastic piping.. I assume I don't need to earth them ?
Any other things I should consider to keep this installation up to the regs ?
Really appreciate any advise given. Thanks !
I have a couple of questions regarding my kitchen that I'm about to install. I wonder if a sparky could comment ? pretty please I really can't afford a sparky to do the work, but want to get it certified after I've done it all.
First off, I am replacing 5x 240v Halogens with 6x 50w LV's halogens. I was thinking of having 3 transformers wired parallel, e.g each transformer getting it's feed from a switched junction box. Is this the best way ? I already have 4 LV halogens on this 6a mcb circuit, and I assume adding another 6 is not a problem ?
My downstairs ring main is run from a 32a RCBO.
My Hob is gas, e.g the only electricity it uses, is for the spark to light the gas. Does this really need a separate feed or will a standard ring main socket do ? Does it have to have an isolation switch above the counter ? Same question for the hood ?
The oven (not sure of wattage as I haven't bought it yet) will have a separate feed to an isolation switch. The problem is, this isolation switch has to be visible, correct ? This will put it within arms reach of the sink.. not good. There is a wall on the other side of the cooker, so it can't go there. The unit the cooker is housed in is a tall cabinet. Anyone think of a way round it ?
The wires will be run in wall channels from upstairs. I was planning on running the cables through plastic conduit, then plastering over them.. is this acceptable under the regs or does it need to be metal conduit ?
I was going to run earth bonding to the main water inlet. It's about 5 meters from the CU to the water stop. What size earth cable should I use ? 6mm or 10mm ?
The sink is ceramic so no bonding needed there, the taps are metal but will have plastic piping.. I assume I don't need to earth them ?
Any other things I should consider to keep this installation up to the regs ?
Really appreciate any advise given. Thanks !