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Good Evening all,

I have started to have a go at replacing a cracked Gully pot, and having exposed the pipework want to take a pause and just double check my next steps are going to be OK.

So, for reference:
This picture shows:
Left hand small pipe - Something dodgily put a drain run that needs replacing at a future date (but hoping behind that wall to put a downstairs WC so not fixing just yet)
In the corner - Soil stack currently appears to be working fine
68mm pipe next to soil pipe - This is currently fed by rainwater and water from bath and sink in upstairs bathroom. Old 1930's house so sewers are combined so not an issue.

The issue is:
The Gully pot is cracked and it was not creating a trap nor and the water was going into the gully and luckily most was draining into the inspection chamber but not via the run, it was kind of just finding it's own way in. Glad it was doing that rather than going under the house.

Anyway, you can see that I have now exposed the pipework, my plan is to smash out the pipe, dig a little further, put down some pea shingle and replace with plastic. Am thinking a screwfix jobbie:
Gully pot and trap
15 degree angle - just in case
Pipe

Now the only bit I am uncertain (unless I am missing something else) - Is getting the pipe into the inspection chamber, do you just put it in and bed it in with some cement?

The alternative is to try and not crack the pipe and use a adaptor collar, although, if im honest I will probably crack it if I go down this route.

As a side note (Will try and take a picture tomorrow) I am a little concerned about all the gaps within the inspection chamber, where things aren't quite flush, although am probably overthinking it. There is also some other bodges going on, but will come to those over time, the Gully issue is the main problem at the moment as was concerned it was going to do damage to the foundations.

Any and all help, greatly appeciated.

Thank you
Tom
 
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Dig round more than you think, you've got to get in there to cut the pipe. Alternately hire a chain pipe cutter.
 
I found a combination of an angle grinder then a multi tool with a tile blade worked for cutting through my clay pipes

The problem I had was access to cut the lower edge of the pipe safely with the grinder. The multi tool was slower but safer.

Eta if your using the bend at the gully get a single socket bend
 
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If you knock off the first collar near the gully and pull the gully out, you can cut a single slash in the clay pipe (where you want your rubber adaptor) as wide as you can then crack it off neatly with a shovel in the cut.

I'll post a pic tomorrow if the pipe I dig up is clay.
 
After the first alert came through on my phone, it hadn't let me know of any more comments. So thought i would log on again.

Thank you for all your responses!

No further progress has been made yet as I was hoping to get some pointers as per above, in my naievety i thought smashing out the pipe and then just slotting it into the inspection chamber would work (with a bit of cement) would work best! Glad I asked now.

Ian H - I believe the first collar is well and truly wedged together with cement, however I will give it a go when I get enough time to complete the job (allowing for errors) as my other half will not be pleased about not having a shower.
 
You will be best off cutting the existing clay pipe about 400mm away from the chamber and use a Fernco type adapter. Everything on the other side of the adapter can be done in plastic.
 
You're doing the right thing, wait until you know what you plan to do and have all the necessary bits ready. In an ideal world you never break open a drain run until you have everything you will need ready and waiting to go.

The stihl saw and spade snap usually is fine but in a critical spot where you absolutely must not crack the pipe a 4 1/2'' grinder with a newish full disc and the guard off fits just lovely into a clay pipe. Its not very safe though and i have never done it:sneaky:
 

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