Crimp???

Bodge = A clumsy, messy, inelegant or inadequate solution to a problem

Personally, I would never use the above method to make a permanent joint even as a last resort. The joints always look clumsy & messy even when done well. Also, I would never joint T&E and then plaster over it. I suppose it boils down to how you've been taught.

It's a bit like running cables outside of the safe zones. Although you can do it I've never come across a situation where that was the only solution.
 
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Because they look clumsy, it's a bodge? The crimp joins the cable properly. The heatshrink insulates the cores and the self a42685686ing tape provides the second layer of insulation and protects from moisture. What am I missing?

Would you not plaster over it because you think the plaster would ruin the joint or do you think the joint should be slightly easier to access than that. I most probably will be going ahead with this, but I still am interested as to why you think that
 
mo2 said:
Because they look clumsy, it's a bodge? The crimp joins the cable properly. The heatshrink insulates the cores

The crimp joins the cable if the correct crimping tool is used and various other conditions are met. (Like no salty sweat crimped into the joint).

If the conductor is tarnished then a crimped joint may not be as conductive as it should be.

The use of a heat gun would worry me unless I was certain that heating would not cause weakening of the crimp by differential expansion between the copper conductor and the the metal of the crimp.
 
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Hold on here, irrespective of regulations this is a bodge – Earthed Crimped joints I don’t have a problem with, nor Feed/Supply Crimped joints larger than 16mm provided they are double crimped and compound encapsulated.

I presume you intend to crimp a solid core 2.5mm twin and earth. (Crimps less than 10mm are designed for stranded cables – hmmmm similar to car cable connections)

My advise is go the extra mile and renew the cable, at a massive push join the cable with a 30amp porcelain (or equivalent) connector block encased in a small screw lid box and insert that behind the plaster board.(Remembering once you have tightened the connector block screws – re tighten after a couple of minutes to negate compression problems.) make sure when striping the cable that there are no score makes on the core to be joined.

To reiterate, Crimp jointing twin and earth (small solid cores) you are asking for problems. To then heat shrink this mess – A Bodge
 
franklone said:
Hold on here, irrespective of regulations this is a bodge – Earthed Crimped joints I don’t have a problem with, nor Feed/Supply Crimped joints larger than 16mm provided they are double crimped and compound encapsulated.

I presume you intend to crimp a solid core 2.5mm twin and earth. (Crimps less than 10mm are designed for stranded cables – hmmmm similar to car cable connections)

My advise is go the extra mile and renew the cable, at a massive push join the cable with a 30amp porcelain (or equivalent) connector block encased in a small screw lid box and insert that behind the plaster board.(Remembering once you have tightened the connector block screws – re tighten after a couple of minutes to negate compression problems.) make sure when striping the cable that there are no score makes on the core to be joined.

To reiterate, Crimp jointing twin and earth (small solid cores) you are asking for problems. To then heat shrink this mess – A Bodge


crimping sounds better than using a screwed connector and making it inaccesible. Replacing the cable, really is a problem.
 
mo2 said:
crimping sounds better than using a screwed connector


I'd have to agree with that.

I have made thousands of crimped joints on solid core 1.5mm² and 2.5mm² cable(although not plastered into a wall). I am not aware of any which have failed, and I can't recall having ever repaired a failed crimped connection.
 
mo2, as I said before there is no reason why you can't do as you propose and crimp joints are electrically sound. If you use the resin filled ones you could either use SAT or heat shrink to maintain the double insulation but I can't see the benefit of using both.

Just call me old fashioned but IMO joints buried in walls are a complete no no.
 
I'll go ahead with my "bodge" then. I'll place a note in the back box that there is a compression joint about 10cm above it.

I'll forget the heat-shrink and use only the self a42685686ing tape instead.
 

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