CU at an angle

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I am at present, giving consideration to my next job, replacing my CU, with a physically larger one, with more ways (10 with a 18), to enable more house circuits to have separate supplies. Our present CU, fits with a few inches to spare, horizontally, with the cables entering via the rear. The only way the replacement will fit horizontally, without lots of joints external to the CU, is by fitting it at the same angle as the stairs - it's in the understairs cupboard, where it will fit (almost) neatly onto the back board. The other way it could be fitted, is vertically, where it would hang rather awkwardly below the backboard.
 
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I wouldn't worry about it, the same breakers get used in single phase CUs where they are vertical, three phase boards where they are usually horizontal, and portable distribution units where they may end up in god knows what orientation.
 
I wouldn't worry about it, the same breakers get used in single phase CUs where they are vertical, three phase boards where they are usually horizontal, and portable distribution units where they may end up in god knows what orientation.

I'm not so much concerned about the functionality, as the aesthetics of a CU mounted at a strange angle?
 
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What is the width you have to work with?, some makes do a double stacked unit which is 300mm wide which seems about the same as their 10way single row boards, but dimensions do vary between brands, so would need to know what space you actually have
 
Would a distribution unit fit better with RCBO's the other way. You have the skill, so does not really need to be type tested.

I'm not sure what you mean by a distribution unit, they are usually multi-way sockets, but if you meant a dist-board - one of those wouldn't fit any better.
 
I am at present, giving consideration to my next job, replacing my CU, with a physically larger one, with more ways (10 with a 18), to enable more house circuits to have separate supplies. Our present CU, fits with a few inches to spare, horizontally, with the cables entering via the rear. The only way the replacement will fit horizontally, without lots of joints external to the CU, is by fitting it at the same angle as the stairs - it's in the understairs cupboard, where it will fit (almost) neatly onto the back board. The other way it could be fitted, is vertically, where it would hang rather awkwardly below the backboard.

Could youextend the cables through an enclosure and re site the board where there is space for it. As you're doing the job you are more in control of things time wise and can do the initial work without disconnecting tne supply.
 
What is the width you have to work with?, some makes do a double stacked unit which is 300mm wide which seems about the same as their 10way single row boards, but dimensions do vary between brands, so would need to know what space you actually have

Bottom of stairs, is to the left, top to right. Vert on right = 570; slope on left = 850; horizontal bottom = 640. The vertical height can be increased by around 60-70mm, without too much difficulty..
 
Could youextend the cables through an enclosure and re site the board where there is space for it. As you're doing the job you are more in control of things time wise and can do the initial work without disconnecting tne supply.

I'm trying to avoid joints outside the CU, and make things generally tidier in there. It's not untidy at the moment, just the main CU, with a second 2way for stair lift and fire alarm system. Rather it's electrically untidy, due to not enough circuits, and no RCD's/RCBO's.. I have added those externally and as plug-ins.
 
Width: 500mm for a distribution board Width: 306mm 10 way CU so yes correct DB wider, Height: 255mm for CU but that means the lid will not auto close. Looked at Fuse box as example.
 
Width: 500mm for a distribution board Width: 306mm 10 way CU so yes correct DB wider, Height: 255mm for CU but that means the lid will not auto close. Looked at Fuse box as example.

The MK CU I have my eye on, is 475W x 275H x 132D. The lid hinges up, as usual, but it will not open fully - it will be stopped by the ceiling, so I'm thinking a magnet fixed to the ceiling will retain that open.
 
Have a look at CP fuseboard F2021MX - 21 usable ways - 28P enclosure (508H, 300W)
or F2029MX - 29 Usable ways - 36P enclosure (508H, 372W)

Also available without Surge if you have it separatly, take off the X suffix and they become 22 and 30 ways respectivly

The mini RCBOs (RTAMB** or RTAMC**) they do are type A, have no functional earth flylead, switch the neutral and are a good price compared to the likes of hager.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, but my best fit CU is a MK Honeywell M21WSD2100RCD12MCB, and mounted at the same angle of the stair.

Here is the way I am setting it up, at least initially (yes, I know, some MCB's need to be revised)..

1. SPARE SPARE

2. 16A LIGHTS UP

3. 6A FIRE ALARMS

4 16A STAIR LIFT

5 20A LOFT OR WATER HEATER

6 20A GARAGE/HUT/SUMMERHOUSE

7 32A DOWNSTAIRS RING + OUTDOOR SOCKET ADJACENT METERS

8 32A SHOWER

9 RCD RCD

10 RCD RCD

11 SPARE SPARE

12 SPARE SPARE

13 6A LIGHTS UP

14 6A BOILER

15 32A UPSTAIRS RING

16 40A COOKER + MICROWAVE + FRIDGE/FREEZER + HOB EXTRACT

17 RCD RCD

18 RCD RCD

19 SPARE SPARE

20 16A UTILITY FREEZER ONLY SOCKET + FRIDGE

21 MAIN MAIN ISOLATOR

22 MAIN MAIN ISOLATOR
 

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